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I have a pro built Vintage Speedster. I'm the second owner. The car has about 17,000 miles on the OD. Here's what I know about the engine:
2014cc; everything new except the bare engine case, micro polished stroker crank and rods, "CUMA" pistons and barrels, "ELIMINATOR" big valve heads, 110 cam, dual 40MM "DELLORTO" carbs, deep sump oil pan & remote filter. My problem is the crank pulley is degree marked on the back, but there are no timing marks on the rim. When the car began to run poorly I changed the points, then installed a Petronix electronic ignition. Now I need to re-time the engine. (I actually found the distributor [009] was loose before I started!) The questions are, do I time to TDC 0 degrees at idle? What are the advance settings? All help and comments are welcome.
Rick Kelley, Basking Ridge, NJ
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I have a pro built Vintage Speedster. I'm the second owner. The car has about 17,000 miles on the OD. Here's what I know about the engine:
2014cc; everything new except the bare engine case, micro polished stroker crank and rods, "CUMA" pistons and barrels, "ELIMINATOR" big valve heads, 110 cam, dual 40MM "DELLORTO" carbs, deep sump oil pan & remote filter. My problem is the crank pulley is degree marked on the back, but there are no timing marks on the rim. When the car began to run poorly I changed the points, then installed a Petronix electronic ignition. Now I need to re-time the engine. (I actually found the distributor [009] was loose before I started!) The questions are, do I time to TDC 0 degrees at idle? What are the advance settings? All help and comments are welcome.
Rick Kelley, Basking Ridge, NJ
CIMA pistons? I'd get an aluminium degreed replacement pulley so you have the markings (ya might have to pull the exhaust to replace it though). An alternative is to put marks on your current one. One of the VW paperback maintenance book (maybe How to Hot Road a VW Engine?)had one you could cut out (dupe) and use to mark yours. I'd use something like a center punch or Dremell tool and white paint.
Be aware though that due to the configuration of our engine compartments you can't see the markings on the pulley when it is installed. If you get one, and you should, then you will need to put corresponding marks on the outer rim of the pulley so that you can see them when timing the engine. Take my advice and mark the edge before you install it. Otherwise you will need to use a mirror and will not get a really accurate mark.
JMHO
Troy
I just checked last night. Our motors are all around 28 degrees total advance. A little retard is fine for the engine and keeps it running a bit cooler for around town and short highway jaunts. You really don't notice the drop off at high end, because you're rarely there.

For the strip, we jack it up to 35 degrees or more, but the runs are SO SHORT and the cool down is SO LONG between runs, that it hasn't been a problem yet. Plus it's all WOT so the distributor may as well be locked at that point.
Thanks to all who responded. It's a big help. As I tried to indicate in my first posting, a degreed crankshaft pulley is installed . . . and I can see the numbers by holding the timing light just so. The wheel is marked TDC to 180 in both directions. I've got it running now at 28 degrees at 3,000, but not very well. Still workin' on it when time allows.
Thanks again to all.
Rick
Try giving it more advance, the number I gave you is as provided by Gene Berg when installing dual Kadron carbs with a 009 distributor. In the beginning my car had some hesitation when starting in 1st gear. I advanced it more and it improved a lot. As long as the car doesn't ping or knock and you're using higher octane gas you can advance it more.
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