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I've used Goof Off Rust Remover (from Lowes) on exterior rust stains caused by lawn sprinkler system.  It works great and is non-abrasive. Has a slight acidic smell but doesn't damage painted items. CLR is another readily available rust remover. Tried it for hard water stains and not all that effective. I like that Rust-Flush is a jelly - which would make it easier to use. $8 isn't bad - sounds like its going down the drain anyhow!

 

What are you using it on? Muratic Acid is a powerful rust and stain remover. It's hydrochloric acid so don't get it on skin or eyes --- or paint. Fumes are bad too.

 

Did you try Coke? It has citrus acid and phosphoric acid in it. 

Last edited by WOLFGANG

For rusted metal, I use Ospho, a combination of oxalic and phosphoric acids.  I had commercial fishing boats for many years, and it's the fisherman's choice, as it changes iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate, a hard, black coating that takes paint well.  The ocean always wins in the end, but this product delays the inevitable.  It's really effective, only mildly dangerous, easy dto apply, and doesn't cost too much.

Thanks for the 'experienced' feedback on non-abrasive rust removal.

I've got a bucketful of neglected rusted stuff that's weighing heavily on my conscience!

 

David, some of it has hard to get at nooks and crannies in cast steel/iron so your electrolysis recipe might come in handy.

 

Coke?

That suggestion makes me smile at remembering a high school science experiment on the corrosive effect of phosphoric acid...That's when I switched to beer! 

Good clip, Justin but that's not the way I learned to do it. Would you agree by looking about halfway thru the clip that the steel rods crossing the tank that are suspending the rusted parts are in fact touching the circle of wire around the perimeter? He then has made a direct short of the positive on the circle to the negative on the parts to be de-rusted. The method I used made it very clear that the negative parts should never be touching the positive parts. The washing soda / water solution is the only common connector between positive and negative. Maybe I'm missing something...what say ye ?

Originally Posted by David Stroud Ottawa Canada '83 IM Soob:

Good clip, Justin but that's not the way I learned to do it. Would you agree by looking about halfway thru the clip that the steel rods crossing the tank that are suspending the rusted parts are in fact touching the circle of wire around the perimeter? He then has made a direct short of the positive on the circle to the negative on the parts to be de-rusted. The method I used made it very clear that the negative parts should never be touching the positive parts. The washing soda / water solution is the only common connector between positive and negative. Maybe I'm missing something...what say ye ?

You are right, the battery charger would be very unhappy with you if you short the pos/neg. It's not very clear, but I assume the cables in between the rebar are insulated. But still, that's really sketchy since the metal holder could easily shift on you and contact the exposed anodes. Sparks + hydrogen gas could make for an interesting day. Using a wooden block as the insulated holder as in other parts of that video is the better way.

Last edited by justinh
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