what is the size of the camber nuts on a ball joint front, and what is the easiest way to adjust. bill
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what is the size of the camber nuts on a ball joint front, and what is the easiest way to adjust. bill
Says 36mm -- See special VW tool #179 at:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/tools1.php
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/tools1.php
I just use a big, adjustable, open-end wrench. Anything that'll fit up in there, really.
Unless they're rusted to the depression they fit into, they usually turn easily enough.
Oh, and if you can't get enough adjustment on them, CB and CIP sell special additional adjustment camber bush gizmos.
Unless they're rusted to the depression they fit into, they usually turn easily enough.
Oh, and if you can't get enough adjustment on them, CB and CIP sell special additional adjustment camber bush gizmos.
If I was in there re-doing ball joints, I'd flip my steering arm bushings too.
Flip steering arm bushings?
Excuse, my bad - should have said, "flip the tie rods themselves".
When a VW is lowered by an adjustable beam, the tie rods are raised relative to the steering arm. This non-horizontal alignment can result in "bump steer", where your steering is affected when your wheel and tire move up and down.
The solution is to "flip" the tie rods from the top of the spindle arm to the bottom of the spindle arm at the wheel. This will drop the tie rods back to a more horizontal alignment. To do this you need to drill out the spindle arm and install new, tapered bushings.
Easy to do, but nobody wants to do this unless you have the front suspension apart for other reasons.
When a VW is lowered by an adjustable beam, the tie rods are raised relative to the steering arm. This non-horizontal alignment can result in "bump steer", where your steering is affected when your wheel and tire move up and down.
The solution is to "flip" the tie rods from the top of the spindle arm to the bottom of the spindle arm at the wheel. This will drop the tie rods back to a more horizontal alignment. To do this you need to drill out the spindle arm and install new, tapered bushings.
Easy to do, but nobody wants to do this unless you have the front suspension apart for other reasons.
And, it all depends on how much the car is lowered. If you flip the tie-rods on cars that are not lowered much, you will actually INCREASE bump-steer, which you don't want.
I use a medium-large pair of Snap-on water pump pliers, works great. The angle works well from the front to grab a flat on the adjuster.
I use a medium-large pair of Snap-on water pump pliers, works great. The angle works well from the front to grab a flat on the adjuster.
Looked like a good thread; I expected to see an authoritative response by Vince . . . But it's early yet.
