(continued)
Cover the carpet on the driver's side, and you'll probably want to cover the tunnel, too.
Get your 20-foot piece of string, and tie it to the end that's still sticking out the back of the tunnel. Once you're sure it's on there good, pull the cable out through the pedal-hole. And untie or cut the string. Re-tie it to the new cable, and then go get Pam.
Take your new cable, leaving it coiled, and put it on the driver's side floorboard. Get your greased shop rag out, and begin to grease it after the first six or so inches.
Put the first two fingers of whichever hand you need to -- probably your left, if you're on the driver's side -- into the hole and feel around for the cable tube. The string will guide you to the hole.
Ask Pam to gently pull on the other end of the string until your new cable is a few inches from being ready to hook onto the pedal. Let the cable play through the greased rag as it travels into the hole, then make sure to grease the loop, too.
Put the rag in a plastic bag when you're done.
This is the tricky part, if there is one. Once the pedal has captured the cable, you have to keep tension, or it'll come off the hook. Pam is going to have to pull enough to keep the pedal where it is long enough for you to put in the couple bolts that hold the pedals to the tunnel.
Put the brake pedal clevis back in just the way it was. Connect the stoppre for the gas pedal again, and put the pin through the pedal base.
Pam's done at this point. I would see about making sure you physically take the cable from her, don't just tell her to put it down, and then keep loose tension at the tunnel while you feed the threaded end through the guide and clutch fork.
If memory serves, Carey uses the wingnut-type cable ends. Get the wingnut on the threads until you have between a half- to three-quarters of an inch of play in the cable.
Put your interior back together, thank Mrs. Anderson, and you're all set.
Easy as pie.