Oil?

G.R., do a search on 'oil'.  We've discussed it in a number of threads.

The bottom line is we want an oil with a higher zinc content.  Some motorcycle oils have that, but they're pricey.

There are inexpensive oils on the market that fit the bill for our type of engine.

Another source is a thread on SAMBA....all 179 pages.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...ewtopic.php?t=220755

This subject has been the source of much discussion over the years, Gary, since companies started removing zddp from oil. It seems that if the engine has stock or single heavy duty valve springs along with a camshaft with fairly mild ramps, then any good quality oil will do (Musbejim will attest to this). Once into dual spring territory, though, the rules change, and the higher wiping pressures created by the engine need something extra to survive. Whether this is a zinc rich, modern synthetic,  or combination of both, is up to you.

 I will go on record saying I don't recommend any modern SM or SN rated oil in any VW aircooled engine. What guys are using in high hp VW engines- Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs have zinc/phosphorus-rich formulations that are suitable, and Valvoline has a street oil (true racing oils have no detergents and are for short term use only) in the VR1 line that people find are working as well. There are others.

Ron mentions that some suitable oils are more expensive, and he's right, but when you think of it, at 1 oil change a year, the extra cost ($50?) isn't nearly as bad as losing an 3- $8,000 engine. 

And yeah, if you really want to immerse yourself, click on the Samba link Ron provided. Don't expect to get through it in 1 sitting...

....and have a big knife close by so you can cut through all the B.S.

I'm with Al on this one. Zinc and phosphorus have been all but eliminated in modern oils as they tend to clog/ruin catalytic converters. These engines need those two additives to survive, period.

SF or SG at the latest, which are no longer available, so buy something modern that is made to work with our older metallurgy/technology engines.

You gentlemen can do whatever you'd like. I'll be over here happily running Brad Penn or VR1, with just the right amount of sacrificial material (zinc and sulpher) and detergent packs for an flat tappet air-cooled engine.

Brad Penn 20w50 in my current Speedster - nothing else.

I'll have to see what my new one needs, but I assume the same.

Ok, I'm convinced(after going through most of the Samba oil thread and what I've heard from a lot of you here) I'll go with Brad Penn oil 10w-30...now should I get the 'Penn-Grade 1' high performance oil? or ?

The Penn Grade 1 will serve you well; although Im a fan of 10w-30, I didn't want to overload you with the "heavy vs lighter" argument, but you've made the decision on your own.

Everything except the specialty lubricants in the Brad Penn line is "grade 1", so just get the 10w30 (if that's what you've chosen) and be happy.

I'd get an oil pressure gauge and watch it. It's certainly more useful than a gas gauge that doesn't work.

Amen.

It's only money, Bob. 

My car has aftermarket VDO temp and pressure gauges hung in a panel under the dash don't really like them there but they do work, so far...LOL. I do like the gauge in Stan G.'s photo.  What make is it?

Decided upon the 10-30W oil after getting the consensus from the Samba oil thread. I'll try it for awhile while it is still cold out then may go to a heavier oil, 20-50w for the summer temps. 

I've always used 20-50w Castrol in my American V-8's but those engines have pretty hot camshafts for the most part and are hydraulic roller rockers, ported heads, etc. 

Stan's gauge is custom built, I believe. The VW oil system is pressure controlled (there is no thermostat and 20w-50 may keep the engine in warm-up mode, never fully opening the cooler passage, and you may find that the car runs hotter in the summer. Try the 10w-30 before switching to the heavier oil. Al

It's a standard Chinese VDO "combi" gauge, modified and re-screened by NHS. The gas gauge is now just a "low fuel" light on the left of the idiot light cluster. The gas gauge has a VDO oil pressure gauge in it's place. It wasn't cheap, but it's 100x more useful than a single red idiot light for oil pressure.

Stan- Does your combo gauge use the regular VDO aftermarket pressure and temperature senders?

Yes

Thank you for the tip! Much appreciated. I'd never have considered that the 20w-50 keeping the engine in 'warm-up' mode...shows just how much i do not know about these engines......big learning curve here...lol