Oil additive effectivity?

Anyone know if this additive increases current oil effectivity...?
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1810

i dont know my engine is new and the builder put something like that in, im using zddp next oil change, $6K on a motor and another $10 cant hurt.
www.zddplus.com

I'm not a real fan on that kind of stuff. For me I'd put a pre-oiler in there first. It'll provide oil to the engine prior to start up and will help out in spirited driving if you have any oil starvation.

To me the technology behind the pre-oilers is easier to grasp than the science behind the fancy additives. I'm old school I guess.

My understanding is that the Brad Penn oil has all those ingredients without having to add anything else. I'm using 20w 50 and no complaints from my engine---don't epect any either.

When I had a 1915 Type I, I added the STP red can stuff for thise qualities now missing in most motor oils.

Do a search here or on the Samba and you will spend from now to Memorial day reading the posts.

It's not about old school or new school. The oil companies have changed their formula. They changed it because the zddp was causing damage to catalytic converters, which ALL new cars have and have had since the mid 79's.

Basically, they removed the zddp they use to add to help preserve the cat's. The zddp they removed is the 'KEY' ingredient in oils to help flat tappet engines live longer. Things can happen very quickly without it. Sometimes within just one oil change. The cams go flat and the lifters wear at a tremendously fast rate.

Currently there are only a couple companies that produce oils with the correct ammounts of zddp. Do your research or chance on loosing 5-10 grand (or more) for a new engine.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Flat_Tappets_Collection.aspx

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.aspx

Read these two links. Take care of your engine and it will last, use the wrong oil and be prepared for a engine replacement sooner than later.

Brad Penn for me too (new engine). I'm going with 10/30 weight.

Good input from all. Brian, I have seen the Canton Accusump Oil Accumulator. I think for "insurance" something like that might be the thing for a racing or otherwise expensive engine.
Here's the link, for reference: http://www.accusump.com/

Rotella diesel oil is all I use ~

Interesting read from Hot Rod Magazine:
www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0702_pitstop_zinc_oil_additive/index.html

I've been using Rotella Diesel oil for three years, now, too.

10W-40 year-round.

I like the pre oiler Idea , It's proven helpful for engine life.. Where would you get a kit made just for VW engines?

Cory has some sort of electrical oil pre-post run pump set up in Hoopty

You don't need one specifically for VW engines. It gets plumbed in with the oil filter.

I don't know if Gene Berg still sells them, but they did.

I have an old, but never used, one I would sell for half price. It needs a valve.

I installed one of these instead of an add-on sump.

Thank's Alan..

I Like the electric prepump idea even better less to plumb, Put it right on the engine, and less chance of a leak.. I can wire that into the oil light circut and it would be like automatic primming without thinking about it. One check valve as a back flow preventer and it would be super neat.. Turn the key on, wait for the oil light to go out,, then start the engine..

Calling Kory!! What kind of pump are you using for that ???

Barry-

Use an Accusump, and be done with it.

Brian - Here's my version of old school. ZDDP is good. Pre-oilders are good. But . . .

My old "school version" of a pre-oiler is a high torque starter. DO NOT STEP ON THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. Let the engine turn over a few times until you see a movement on the oil pressure gauge. Hint - a Weber equipped engine will NEVER start without pumping the accelerator, so not to worry. Then pump the gas and the engine will light off with instant oil pressure.

Here's your oil.

Kind of fun being "Not Street Legal"

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/9

Or if you like dinosaur oil.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6

Plenty of ZDDP and at your local NAPA store.

Here is my Accusump. The small blue thing on the right is the electric valve. It opens when the ignition key is turned. I installed a switch on the valve so I can disable it if I want to turn on the ignition without dumping the oil into the engine.

The Accusump does more than protect at startup. It provides pressurized oil if there is any loss of oil pressure, such as when the oil in the sump sloshes away from the pickup tube under hard cornering.

In the experience with oils that Charles from LN Engineering and I have no additive comes close to equaling the effects of a proper additive formulation in the base oil.

You can take a crappy oil, introduce an additive and guess what? You still have a crappy oil. I have yet top see any gains from any additive on the dyno or in used oil samples. I have done these evaluations with both vintage(356/914/Type 1) and modern Porsche engines (Boxster and 996) with greatly differing results.

An oil is in development that is made specifically for aircooled VW and Porsche engines, rich in all the right elements with the proper viscosity. I have been doing the test work thus for and will head up the development of the formulation for this product.

Brad Penn is the oil to beat. We won a race with it yesterday on an engine that has almost 2 full seasons on the bottom end components, that turns over 8,000 RPM for 30 minutes race after race. We just set the pole for today's race and are looking to kick ass again, even with an engine that should not have lasted past last July of last year!

Lots of people aren't using Brad Penn because its harder to source; which is easier, an engine failure or mail ordering oil? Some things are simply "required". I know what works and I mandate that oil for my engines.

Gordon, you may want to read this: http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/garage/467142-good-stuff-shell-rotella-t-oil-gone.html

Charles Navarro from LN Engineering also recommends SWEPCO oil. I use that in my 1973 911 with a 1987 3.2 engine

This was a pretty good thread, & was worth revisiting when I went shopping for oil this weekend.

Sorry Gordon, you might double-check Rotella. Looks like it might have been reformulated for the new generation of diesels & may not have the level of ZDDP it used to (if any).

Fortunately, NAPA still stocks VR1 in lots of weights (most of it was in back, so I had to ask for it).

Ahhh, the smell of dinosaur oil...

I am a Brad Penn user/advocate, not because I know anything in particular, exactly, but I do understand about the zinc and cam lifters. More to the point, Jake says use it, and that is good enough for me.