Oil Additives

I've read that too much zinc isn't good either. If you're using the Joe Gibbs oil then there's no reason to supplement.

Yes, I'm using Joe Gibbs... which poses another question.

 

Because I'm susceptible to persuasive promotional copy that leaves me with visions of tappets pounding the hell out of the cam, I'm spending $11 a quart for the Gibbs.

 

Why can't I use a zinc/phosphorus additive to a $4.99 quart with the same results?

(ZddPlus hoopla copy is every bit as persuasive as Joe Gibbs!!!) 

Why not switch instead to Brad Penn racing (green).  That's kinda the standard for air-cooled ZDDP protection.

Agree with Tom. Use Brad Penn, but make sure you use the correct one(Green) as there are multiple varieties.

Carl, before you run out and spend more money, read this:

 

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Here's a list of four oils with good wear protection (in no particular order)

 

1.  Brad Penn (syn)

 

2.  Valvoline VR1 (dino)

 

3.  Amsoil Z-Red (syn)

 

4.  Quaker State Defy (semi syn)

 

I plan on using VR1 in my new engine for the first 2000 miles.

A bit plus with the VR1 is it can be found at many Walmarts and is reasonably priced.

 

 

I'm of the understanding (from reading about oil on this amazing inter-web place that I found) that just dosing modern detergent oil doesn't always work; for zinc/phosphorus compounds to be successful in engines, the ratio with the detergent pack has to be right, and some detergent packs actually keep the z-p compound from adhering to metal and doing it's job. I'm only spreading unsubstantiated claims... 

My mechanic has me using Red Line in my 2110cc stroker. The stuff seems horrendously expensive though. 

After wading through Larry's suggested reading: "What motor oil is best for my air cooled Porsche" by Charles Navano, The only thing I'm going to rush out and buy is something strong for a raging headache!

 

Try digesting 86 highly technical paragraphs, charts, indexes, not to mention reams of the author's technically answered questions from ninnies like me.

 

What I did pull out of all of this is that Navano uses Brad Penn Green in his air cooled... and since he authored this complex Phd thesis on engine oil, that's good enough for me! Also, frequent oil changes is cheap insurance...and run some miles on a detergent additive just prior to an oil & filter change.

I dont use any addtives,dont use zinc ritch oil either. yes too much zinc can cause issues.when it gets to the combustion chambers it turns to ash deposits with act like a glow plug.many moons back when the zinc was coming out of the oil crane cams started selling the breakin addtive.and stated on the back of the bottle was use only for breakin,do not use after first oil change,causes detonation from buildup in combustion chambers. although crane probaably spelled it a little better they know what this stuff does and problems it causes. I use cam shield when building the engines and also prep the camshaft properly(witch most builders/assemblers do not do).change the oil/filter after the first 30-40 min, then again after an hour more than again before a week is up. using reg cheep name brand dino oil. then when about a month is gone by I switch to full synthetic oil.

Think of it from the standpoint that with all you have invested in the engine, if it does it's job, then the extra cost is worth it. Do you change the oil more than once a year? Oil and filter is still less than $100? Do you see what I'm getting at?

Yeah, ALB. You're right. Cheap compared to replacing an engine. I don't hear Red Line referred to on the site much and so I sometimes wonder if it is the best alternative.

I use the $26. castrol,pensoil,qstate,valvoline full synthetic oils in my car's. Qstate now has a part synthetic with zinc in it for about $16 deffy is what there calling it(5 qt jug, as are the others at wally world) I dont know how much the brad pen is or the redline,but I realy cant see them being any better in the long run for the $.but thats me,Ive seen engines run on redline that had issues,was it the redline?? did it not address the issues this engine had?? I dont have a clue as the owner would not change brands, as many people get the "I use it so it's got to be the best" mentality. well I learned long ago not all oils are created equal. thus I mix&match all of my oil. I did put the deffy in my kids scion,my wifes honda& my bug this last oct.I cant realy tell any thing other than a few min longer to warm up from it being a little thicker.but the kids scion does run quieter with it,it may of had thinner oil before I put 10-30 in it.5-20 in mine, but it is a mix of half the defy&half 5-20 castrol edge.

 

   many people think they for some stupid reason need a racing oil.well if there not racing & dont keep it changed ad rececars do and need there hurting more than helping.the racing oild dont have the addtives that are needed for long term usage and all the thremol cylcing it go,s through. and why??? do they think it will make it a race motor?? give it more power?? last 500 miles?? think, a 4 cylinder,not a lot of power....need racing oil??nope.there are plenty of engines with way more parts&power that just use off the shelf oil and last a long time.   Is your motor worth it in the cost?? yes .but can you do better &cost less?? most likely.and with the cheeper than race oil you can change it more often&not have to go on a diet that weekend.

     one more thing. if you have an issue, a problem the racing oil will not fix it.neither will the std or synetic oil.but a good synthetic oil may prolong the time till you have to do something.and it may not.

  if your running a turbo or added power additive you may need addtional protection.but I just dont see it in a vw engine in a non race car,not even a racecar under 240 hp non boosted apps. Ive built plenty of 800hp&up engines.none used exzotic racing oil.most of the time they went out the door with kendall/bradpen gt1. no oiling issues at all. I beleave we used valvoline racing oil in our 800+ ci promod...because it was sponsered to us.that engine is in the 100000.00 range. any racing oil would of worked just fine. these vw's are not racecars.

Lots of information in this article:

 

http://www.corvetteactioncente...ex.html#.UuQHt_bTmWE