Checking in with my Fellow Florida peeps. This has been done to death but IN FLORIDA what weight oil do you use?
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I use 20 W 50.
Charleston, SC isn't Florida, but climate-wise it might as well be. I also run 20W-50, i n my case Brad Penn.
San Diego climate pretty similar...Brad Penn 20w50
For the benefit of anyone new to the game, it might be good to mention why you run Brad Penn or some equivalent.
Cuz Jake Raby said it was the best.
Dave--I don't know anything about Brad Penn pertaining to Suby engines because that engine is "modern" compared to the air cooled ones. The Type 1s and Ivs with flat tappets require the zinc and other goodies contaned in Brad Penn and presumable others.
This applies only to the "right" Brad Penn, which is the green product labeled "Racing Oil"
As someone who actually builds their own engines including Lycomings and Continentals I know you knew that way before I did!
Go to Jiffy Lube and tell them it's a Subaru, no problem. Tire Kingdom won't do it because thaey have to list the type of car in the computer and nowhere does a Porsche listing come up with a Subaru oil filter.
Is anyone using Brad Penn AND still putting in an additive? Just curious.
No need, Todd. If you are using the correct Brad Penn, you don't need any additives.
I second that.
Thanks for the Soob advice lads, but I was trying to be subtle and it didn't work. Todd may "NEED TO KNOW" how critical it is to have the correct oil in his engine considering the technology of the day that it came from. Perhaps explain the need for zinc etc. No BS here. I didn't listen to that advice and perhaps that's why my cam and lifter bits let go after only 10,000 miles in my 1915..
That's what I use in my air cooled Speedster, as recommended by Henry at IM (well, he recommended oil with a good ZDDP content, and Brad Penn has that).
Brad Penn 10/30 in my IM and Westy.
Just one - my third one.
Old engines require a ZDDP level of 1200 ppm(parts per million) than the 800 ppm ZDDP modern motor oils provide. Brad Penn, Valvoline and Amsoil offer oils with higher ZDDP levels. I use Brad Penn 20-50W Penn Grade 1 (also called racing oil part number 7119). I buy by the case for about $5 a quart. 20-50W is recommended for mild and warm climates. Since it is a heavier grade of oil it also has less of a chance of oil leakage.
I use Brad Penn oils. The Brad Penn Grade 1. 20w. - 50.
Marked as partial synthetic high performance. Easily recognized by its nice green colour...
And it sticks like glue to the engines moving parts. With its high levels of zinc it is ideal for older engines and at the same time good for high revs.
My Shelby Cobra runs an all aluminum 468 cubic inch Shelby motor and Shelby's specs for oils were the Brad Penn for the first run in miles and then the 20w - 50 Grade 1 for servicing oil changes.
I use a KN oil filter in the Cobra and replace them each oil change.
My Speedster does not have the bolt on after market filter system, an add on I will consider on my next engine performance build....
So well worth running in a new engine with it. We pay $10 for a bottle here, but I see that it is cheaper there. Guess its the freight cost from Brad Penn. to us here in Australia..
It is interesting to see the name come from the location where it is made Brad Penn - Bradford Pennsylvania!!......
I am in Hawaii and have in my stable 4 flat tappet type engines and I am running Valvoline VR-1 50wt. racing oil in all of them. I do my valve adjustments every 1k-1200 miles and the val;ves are always needing very little adjustment,and my oil pressure hot is 10-13 psi. I tried running 40 wt. and all it did was reduce the oil pressureat idle to under 10,my car averages 205-210 deg. oil temps and hauls ass.(2110)