Gordon -- one final note. We asked the guy at AutoFab who made the plug wires if it made a difference whether we went with the MSD proprietary wires (like we discussed on the phone) or if we should go with some other 40K-volt HEI wires, and he said they go with Moroso on everything that leaves their shop, regardless of what it comes in with. They custom assemble every plug-wire set that goes out the door, apparently, and it cost LESS than going to MSD's kit and modifying pieces.
The caps and plug-ends fit like they were made to go on the plugs and dizzy, unlike the weak fitting MSD pieces they replaced. I hadn't realized the MSD plug ends were weak until I snapped these guys on with teresa's moderate dosing of di-electric grease inside each one. Noticeably better fit.
We'll take notes over time, but so far -- after almost 450 miles -- there hasn't been so little as a sputter from the engine compartment. Stunningly perfect.
A.) How many times have a bunch of us told you NEVER work on your car in the week prior to going to an event? You paid the price, didn't you? Shame on you....
;>)
B.) I have never used MSD plug wires. My brother used them once (just once) on a snowmobile but they quickly broke down (he was running wicked high voltage through them). He went to Taylor silicone spiral cores and never looked back, and I believe that he makes his up custom from bulk Taylor parts (because he made me a spare, custom-length, coil-to-disti cable this summer because my coil mounts on the left inner fenderwall to keep it cool).
I'm currently running Taylor 8mm spiral-cores and have a spare set of 10mm but they don't fit my neatness carriers so they'll stay as spares. Taylor's ends fit the same as your new ones: Grease them up and they go on with a definite "click", and that's that, plus, they can handle the sauce of an HEI coil. I like the positive click on the plugs because they also have grooved ball ends on the plug boots that positively seal to the head tins. A pain to get on (lots of grease helps) but seal like crazy.
Did you also get the HEI rotor without the resistor?
Glad everything worked out.......Sounds like you two have lots of fun working together.... 8>)
;>)
B.) I have never used MSD plug wires. My brother used them once (just once) on a snowmobile but they quickly broke down (he was running wicked high voltage through them). He went to Taylor silicone spiral cores and never looked back, and I believe that he makes his up custom from bulk Taylor parts (because he made me a spare, custom-length, coil-to-disti cable this summer because my coil mounts on the left inner fenderwall to keep it cool).
I'm currently running Taylor 8mm spiral-cores and have a spare set of 10mm but they don't fit my neatness carriers so they'll stay as spares. Taylor's ends fit the same as your new ones: Grease them up and they go on with a definite "click", and that's that, plus, they can handle the sauce of an HEI coil. I like the positive click on the plugs because they also have grooved ball ends on the plug boots that positively seal to the head tins. A pain to get on (lots of grease helps) but seal like crazy.
Did you also get the HEI rotor without the resistor?
Glad everything worked out.......Sounds like you two have lots of fun working together.... 8>)
Nah, nothing ignition-related needed replacement other than the wires, but we checked anyway. Thanks for the suggestion.
The only problem with the system was the corrosion on the contacts outside the distributor. I got those clean with a wire brush, and Teresa worked her magic on them with the compounds she uses at work.
Not even a hint of a problem inside anything that was sealed correctly a year ago -- I think Jimmy made those ends in a hurry. Not faulting the guy; I think he's just made so many of them over the years for dragsters that he just made them up quickly and without a whole lot of attention to detail. They worked fine at the time, but they got old quickly.
Now, we're right as the mail. And it is nice working on it with her. We seem to have complimentary skills -- plus, she's a riot.
The only problem with the system was the corrosion on the contacts outside the distributor. I got those clean with a wire brush, and Teresa worked her magic on them with the compounds she uses at work.
Not even a hint of a problem inside anything that was sealed correctly a year ago -- I think Jimmy made those ends in a hurry. Not faulting the guy; I think he's just made so many of them over the years for dragsters that he just made them up quickly and without a whole lot of attention to detail. They worked fine at the time, but they got old quickly.
Now, we're right as the mail. And it is nice working on it with her. We seem to have complimentary skills -- plus, she's a riot.
REALLY?!!
Ya think?
GN wrote:....How many times have a bunch of us told you NEVER work on your car in the week prior to going to an event?
Yup that's why I didn't touch a slightly clogged idle jet on the morning of the Pumpkin Run "me knows mucho better" than to try and fix a simple thingy on "the day" ...it ran fine all day long. ~Alan
Yup that's why I didn't touch a slightly clogged idle jet on the morning of the Pumpkin Run "me knows mucho better" than to try and fix a simple thingy on "the day" ...it ran fine all day long. ~Alan
Lane!
Look here in your photos>
http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g43/landerso/TotD%202008/?action=view¤t=DSC_0012.jpg
Did you see the original Porsche, really big, vertical, case breather with the BIG hose going to below the engine, not into the air cleaner?
And that was on a stock, what? 1600cc engine??
hmmmmmmm................
And I love those HUGE air inlets to the oil bath air cleaners, too.....
(but they both worked great!)
Look here in your photos>
http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g43/landerso/TotD%202008/?action=view¤t=DSC_0012.jpg
Did you see the original Porsche, really big, vertical, case breather with the BIG hose going to below the engine, not into the air cleaner?
And that was on a stock, what? 1600cc engine??
hmmmmmmm................
And I love those HUGE air inlets to the oil bath air cleaners, too.....
(but they both worked great!)
I now have a surplus BugPack breather box.
Free to a good home.
Free to a good home.
I'm not replumbing anything else. It's running too good right now - leaks notwithstanding.
Cory,
Came across this picture and remembered reading this post. Looks to be the "Anti Backfire Valve" you discussed earlier. I am attaching a link to the web page. What a beautiful car! Someone new exactly what they wanted and exactly what is was going to take to get there.
http://www.oldbug.com/gates.htm
Still have that breather box? I am thinking one would be beneficial with my 1915. Let me know.
Paul
Came across this picture and remembered reading this post. Looks to be the "Anti Backfire Valve" you discussed earlier. I am attaching a link to the web page. What a beautiful car! Someone new exactly what they wanted and exactly what is was going to take to get there.
http://www.oldbug.com/gates.htm
Still have that breather box? I am thinking one would be beneficial with my 1915. Let me know.
Paul
Attachments
Images (1)
I sure do, Paul. It's yours.
And that fitting looks exactly like the ones I saw. The plumbing is similar, too.
And that fitting looks exactly like the ones I saw. The plumbing is similar, too.
Anyone using the Krankvent, made be ET-Performance, that FJCamper writes about in his breather article? He sounds pretty convincing, but is it necessary?
This picture is the oil breather and tank installed on the Hoopty. The bottom of the tank has a plug in it right now, but the goal is to make it connect to the pipes just like the one Paul posted (above).
I took the top filter section off and looked in, and there is oil collected inside, right to the level of the bottom port. There isn't any evidence of oil residue inside the paper filter, or on the rubber that holds it onto the tank. It's held there with a worm-gear clamp over a thick aluminum neck.
This is yards better than the BugPack box that was burping all over the place, and the engine absolutely gets to the top end without any resistance to the throttle now.
I think it's breathing a heck of a lot easier.
Paul, do you know who supplied that part?
I took the top filter section off and looked in, and there is oil collected inside, right to the level of the bottom port. There isn't any evidence of oil residue inside the paper filter, or on the rubber that holds it onto the tank. It's held there with a worm-gear clamp over a thick aluminum neck.
This is yards better than the BugPack box that was burping all over the place, and the engine absolutely gets to the top end without any resistance to the throttle now.
I think it's breathing a heck of a lot easier.
Paul, do you know who supplied that part?
Geez....it woud look better if it said "Hi-C" on the side.....
;>)
;>)
Gee, I was thinking "Hawaiian Punch".
It's really a still
...Flux Capacitor...
Or a HyDroxy Generator....
Aw c'mon, it's a bong!
~WB
~WB
Well, whatever it is, it looks like it belongs there. Looks good, Cory, good job by you and the soon-to-be missus.
I guess the old adage "there's no substitute for cubic inches" holds true here also?
I guess the old adage "there's no substitute for cubic inches" holds true here also?
Like Angela says, "Aerodynamics is for those without enough horsepower"! (or something like that).