Oil Change

Stu, Buy John Muir's book "How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive".  Besides being an interesting read, it is chock full of interesting well-written instructions for the novice do it yourself-er.  When I had my VS, it was my bible and performed the 3,000 mile service/tune up religiously.   I had ordered parts from cip1 (California Import Parts ltd), CB Performance and occasionally local auto parts stores.  The Volkswagen-powered cars are easy and fun to maintain. 

Hoss

Hoss is absolutely right - "How to Keep your Volkswagen Alive" is superb!

What's needed:

* 2.5 quarts of oil.  What brand and weight has been the topic of many discussions on this site, the Samba, and elsewhere.  There seems to be a general consensus that a lot of modern oils do not contain the proper additives that flat tappet engines, like ours, need.  Here’s a recent discussion:

https://www.speedsterowners.com...741#3684268507162741

 I buy Brad Penn 20w50 from Competition Components.  I’ve used 10w30 during the winter but it gets pretty cold in Montana. 

* Kits = Gaskets/copper washer set can be had from many retailers, just like Hoss said.  Here are two: 

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/S...sp?Search=oil+change or

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...113%2D198%2D031%2D10

* 3 quart oil pan

* nitrile gloves

* torque wrench that can register as little as 5 pounds and the right size sockets for the sump plate nuts.

* I like to put a thin layer of permatex aviation form-a-gasket on the cardstock oil gaskets.  I've never had a leak from them and the aviation form-a-gasket doesn’t leave much, if any residue on the plate or case once the engine has warmed up and cooled down several times.  When there is any residue, it’s easily cleaned off with a little carburetor cleaner on a rag.  

Other service:

-Check your valves!  Here's some info http://www.vw-resource.com/valve_adjust.html.  Note: You probably have the standard aluminum pushrods.  However, some engines are built with chromoly pushrods and they don't need nearly as much valve lash.  You can tell by seeing if a magnet sticks to the rods.  It won't stick if they're aluminum.

There are other things you might want to check like your ignition system, cylinder compression, etc.  All of that info is in "How to Keep you Volkswagen Alive."  

Good luck! 

@ Hoss & Ted...thanks for the help...Book was ordered last week from amazon  Ted I see Permatex with a #1 & #2 on the tube...does it matter which one you use?

Thanks!

Stu

I use Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant. 

http://www.permatex.com/produc...t_No_3_Sealant_a.htm

It's kinda messy to use but seems to do a good job. 

thanks again Ted!

I'd recommend Brad Penn 20W-50 oil also, as it is formulated to work with our engine types.

I don't drive my Speedster in the winter, though.