Oil Change

There's an argument to be made for dropping the intake down so it's harder to uncover during spirited driving, but don't use the filter- the pump isn't designed to be drawing through an obstruction. 

Since you asked for opinions: I'd add a thinline sump, and be done with it.

I'm not a fan of that CB screen-filter element. It is restrictive. Al is right.

 

One version of the thinline sump has that filter, don't get that one. Just get the version with the tube extension. There are three sizes of pickup tubes. I have the two smaller ones sitting on the shelf if anyone needs. They need to be cut to length as they are long.

 

I have the CB thinline which adds 1.5 quarts to your sytem. Good thing to do.

Since Stan and Danny have mentioned it, if you're going to the trouble, putting a 1 1/2 qt. sump on it is a good idea. The thing I don't like about CB's sumps though, is there's no drain plug; you have to remove the whole bottom cover (special gasket?) to drop the oil. Some people say you should always remove the cover to wash off the sludge that collects, but if you have a full flow filter installed it's an unneeded step.

Jaycee now offers a sump plate with plug for the thin line, Al. CB sells it on their site.

I just drilled and tapped for a 1/4 " pipe plug in my thin line sump cover. Like Al said, IF you have a full flow filter in your system, don't need to pull the cover every time to clean that screen. This saves you from not having to buy that odd size gasket and copper washers each time as well.

Speaking of those little copper washers, I've had pretty good success with heating them up to a glow on my stove, let them air cool, which annealed them back to a soft and malleable state so I can re-use them.

That's what I have.  Great combo.

       
       

I have both, the thin line and the jaycee. The sump game with the motor. I upgraded to the Jaycee sump plate afterwards. No complaints.

Yeah, guys, I know about the Jaycee plate. At $50, it just seems a little much after buying the sump....

Can you just tap a drain plug into the flat spot on the sump?

Yes, and that's what I did on the wet-sump motors.

Yes, Bill. But mine had CB Performance in script cast in. A couple quick passes on my friend's milling machine took care of that though. I drilled and tapped it to 14mm VW drain plug. WOW, $50, does Jaycee think they are CSP or something?

The reason I went with the JayCee is because of the flush fit plug. I had a sump plate from Mainely Design that was basically a tapped sump plate with a plug bolt. Found a manhole cover that took a liking to my sump and it caught the plug - turned the sump plate into a pringle. The JayCee cover is very nicely machined and pretty trick with all the O washers. I had to make a perimeter gasket, however, because the outer O ring was too wimpy.

As Stan often says, if you want quality you gots to pay the price...

And while we're talking about quality parts, the hex head idle jet holders from JayCee are really awesome! Fock the stubby screwdriver routine.

Unless you're Lane at Carlisle, and you tighten the brass so much they crack in half!

 

Terry, I'm spoiled with the mid-mounted, wide-open engine bay.

 

I like the idea of the flush fit plug. I'm looking for one for mine. It only sticks out 1/4", but catching it on something did cross my mind. And you're right, you do have to pay for quality.

Danny, I envy you and your spyder every time I need to work under the bonnet!

Cory did it right.

Hey Danny, look at #2611 here. Might that do ya?

Terry, what you said times 2.  Actually, I owe Lane for this one, as he showed me the hex head holders, and how NOT to use them.  So now I am: F*** the little screwdriver, can't see sh**, can't turn the f#@!er no way no how standing on my head GD flat screw slot.  No sir, not any more.  In/out in about two minutes.

Y'all have yer fun.  I screwed it up because the hole in the holders is just a wee bit shallower than the original holders.  I tightened as much as I had before with no problems, but the jets stuck out a bit more, and were ruined.  I was saved by Danny (spare jets) and Dave Kumpf (tool to get jet bits out).

Ed, that is spot-on! Thank you! I did a lame search and gave up after a few web pages. Just clicked the link, it's Canadian. Maybe Stroud or Bob or Ron can get it for me. It's all in knowing how to search. 

 

But I just found this, looks like I can get this at the VW dealer: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES205...TKzMQCFUwV7AodalgAoQ

 

Kelly, Terry, and all: I work on Speedsters because you guys drive them, and you're my friends. I don't work on them because I like contortions!

Danny, we're not doing contortions....we're actually health freaks and we're doing an ancient form of "auto yoga".  You get yourself into an uncomfortable position and stay there until failure or you drop the wrench or screwdriver when your arms, shoulders, neck or back seizes up. You shake it off and do it again.

Damn, Ed, that is one cool site.  Txs.

I would still use the oil screen though right??

 

Helpful Speedster tip #4763:

 

If you've got the hex head jet holders, here's a simple way not to over-tighten. Put the LONG end of the (L-shaped) allen key in the holder and turn the short end. You can get it tight enough this way, but your fingers will start to hurt before the jet is toast.

 

Ignore this if you're Chuck Norris.

 

 

 

X2, and you don't have to ask me how I know.

Bob asked: "I would still use the oil screen though right??"

 

If you have an external oil filter (the spin-on type), then delete the screen.

 

If no external filter, you might as well leave the screen in place.  The holes are so large it will only filter out pebbles, but it's better than nothing.

 

 

I would have agreed with this before last fall.

 

My 2276 twin-plug, dry-sump was on a stand all last year, so the speedster had the "normal" 2110 I had built for the bus installed last year when I drove out to CA and back.

 

When I got back, I did the fall oil change and had a LOT of shavings, etc., and even a couple of ominous looking flakes come out with the oil. When I took off the valve-covers, I had several broken springs, and a broken valve-guide boss. My top end had disintegrated. I cut apart the oil filter to see what was inside-- it was strangely clean.

 

I pulled the engine and sent it out to Blackline in SLC to see how bad it was inside. Justin pulled it apart and... nothing was wrong?! How is that even possible, I wondered. There was not even a scratch in the oil pump. Every bearing looked like a new one. No scratches in any cylinder.

 

The sump was full of debris and huge chunks of valve spring detritus, but nothing made it's way past the chicken-catcher screen I had so often left out in my own wisdom. As it turns out-- in this instance-- I needed to catch big chunks that could have done a lot of damage had they made it even a little further.

 

I know this is an unusual tale, but it's mine. The screen saved me from trying to pump chunks o' valve spring. HAd I not had the screen, my oil pump would have been destroyed and the situation would have cascaded from there. As it stood, a head rebuild, some new valve-springs and rings, some seals and what-nots and I was back in business.

 

I'd leave it in. What can it hurt?

 

Stan- Do you have a magnetic oil drain plug on that engine?

Yep.

Well, as MUSBJIM has said many times on here....."I learn something new every time I come to this site".

 

Now......If I can find the darn thing, I'll think about putting my screen back in!

Yeah, it surprised me as well (in the best possible way).

I have no problem with the factory VW screen. The CB screen is much finer, I found it to be restrictive, plus it ends up being too high off the sump floor. When engine and outside temp are very warm and you're driving swiftly, my oil light would flicker when coming to a stop at idle. After I remove the CB screen and put in an extension tube, it never happened again.

 

RE: the drain plug. I just got one for a later model VW at the dealership for less than $3. It only sticks out less than 1/8", and uses a 6mm allen key. The regular hex head bolt sticks out a hair more than 1/4". 

Yeah, one thing I learned a long time ago was NEVER restrict the input side of a VW or Porsche oil pump - it really pisses them off and oil pressure drops off precipitously.  

 

They can put up with a lot of shenanigans on the output side and still have decent oil pressure (especially with a larger pump) but don't mess with the input side.

 

Danny P. wrote: "When engine and outside temp are very warm and you're driving swiftly, my oil light would flicker when coming to a stop at idle."

 

Wonderful

 

I should see those kinds of temperatures (and no lingering snow) in about three months.  

Gordon, we are down to parking-lot piles only here. You'll get there, and soon.

The accessory dual post VDO oil pressure sender will cause the oil light to flicker at idle as well; it activates the idiot light at 8-10 lbs. whereas the stock unit turns the light on at 2-3 lbs. If your engine follows the "10lbs. per 1000rpm" rule then whenever the oil light flickers you'll have to double check the gauge, or install a fitting that allows you to keep the original sender.

A couple drain-plug photos. I may still mill the plate and recess the plug.

Thanks Al, that is good to know. I've had the dual temp-pressure thing since new. And yes, I have at least 10psi/1000rpm, more like 15-20psi at 1000rpm warm.

I happened to have a brand new Clyde's buggies sump plate, just like the one pictured above. Feel free to PM me if anyone needs it.

PM Sent