I will be changing my oil on my 1776cc engine (Speedster from the Hawaiian Garden days). VS advised 5 quarts, I see online 2.5 quarts, big difference. Thanks
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@Bob Zunino It is going to depend on if the car has a thin-line or larger sump and/or an external oil filter added to the motor/car. Look underneath the car and snap a photo if you're not sure what you're looking at. It will be where the large circular cover is on the finned square thing. Sorry for sounding so elementary but I have no idea if you're familiar with an air-cooled engine to not. The thicker sump adds volume as does the external oil filter and the lines carrying the oil to/from the motor.
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All of Robert’s points are right on.
A regular VW sedan with a 1,600cc engine took about 2-1/2 quarts to fill it, but many of our cars have deeper sumps and external oil coolers, both of which hold more oil.
As an example, my car has a deep sump and an external oil cooler and it takes about 5 quarts of oil to fill it.
What you CAN do, if you’re worried, is drain the oil for an oil change, replace the drain plug and add your 2.5 quarts, then check the level on the dipstick. If the oil level doesn’t show up, add more oil 1/2 quart or so at a time until you see it show up on the dipstick, then get it so it’s halfway between the hi and lo marks on the stick and write down how much oil it took to get there.
Thanks for your reply. Definitely not the larger deep sump. Thanks
@Bob Zunino, I've got a 1776 with a thin-line sump, an external filter and an external oil cooler. I use about 5 quarts on an oil change. Enjoy!
The more important question is...........which oil and why.......
LET THE GAMES BEGIN!
I’m going with Extra Virgin Olive Oil Imported from Italy.
Rapeseed oil is the best all round oil where there's a lot of friction like in a hot box. High temperature tolerant too !................Bruce
Best to get an oil high in ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate). Valvoline Racing VR1 is readily available locally and is a great choice.
I can see that @Bob Zunino has been following our past oil discussions.....
And don't use any of that Filippo Berrio or Colavita stuff, either. Pure, Artisanal Olive Oil or nothing. This is a Porsche replica, after all..... Please doff your hat.
I mentioned getting your oil level in the middle of the lo-hi marks on the dipstick and that is because, as a number of us have increased displacement (mine is a 2,110cc), it becomes harder to control positive pressure in the crankcase and the engine tries to blow oil out of any opening it finds. We all usually control this with an assortment of crankcase breathers (think Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve only more expensive) and you probably have some sort of breather on there, too. We've also found that it helps to run the oil level halfway between fill marks to help keep it under control.
With a 1,776 you may not find this to be the case so you might try filling it to the upper mark and see what happens. Maybe nothing, maybe a little oil out the dipstick tube or filler neck - Who knows?
Maybe others with the typical VS 1,776 can chime in on this for more help.
@Bob Zunino posted:I’m going with Extra Virgin Olive Oil Imported from Italy.
Oh, I like this guy. He fits right in.
I recommend the top dipstick mark on a small engine(1776 or less).
UNLESS:
1. You're running a sump extension of 1.5 quarts or more
OR
2. You're running full flow and a remote filter and/or cooler IN ADDITION to the extended sump.
If you have a BIG engine which makes lots of breather mist to deal with you'll usually need to figure out an oil control scheme.
If you drive like my Grandma, chances are you'll never overtax or froth the oil up enough to matter. If however, you drive like the rest of us knuckleheads, take some care and precautions with your oil.
Cheers.
Just another data point. On my 1776, there's no problem with filling up to the top mark on the dipstick. I also haven't seen enough oil coming out of the drain tube to warrant an oil breather system (I've had one on the shelf for 3 years now). Like Gordon says, it seems to be more of a necessity with larger engines.
Also, don't discount the advantages of using pure sardine oil over olive oil. Cars that spend a lot of time around sea level run best with a high grade fish oil. The number of cats that are attracted to the car reduce the chances of a rat infestation problem.
@Panhandle Bob posted:The more important question is...........which oil and why.......
LET THE GAMES BEGIN!
@Panhandle Bob oil.. what oil, haven't you heard we're all moving to EV's
Joe, I guess I just had a senior moment there.
I found an old oil can pour spout the other day in garage - my 30 year old son had no idea what it was!
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@Joe Fortino posted:@Panhandle Bob oil.. what oil, haven't you heard we're all moving to EV's
Don't poke the bear.
Ok, now THAT's funny!
@Stan Galat posted:Don't poke the APE.
He he he.
If we're going with EV's I'll just run that old reliable PCB oil in my transformer. Stuff lasts forever.
@WOLFGANG posted:I found an old oil can pour spout the other day in garage - my 30 year old son had no idea what it was!
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"The Mess Maker"
@WOLFGANG, I used to have a set of the glass oil bottles with spouts on top.
I found a couple of 1quart glass oil bottles with spin-on spouts when I cleaned out my Dad’s shop and threw out at least a half dozen of those press-in oil can spouts. Chris and I each have a glass bottle in our shops for garage decor. IIRC, they have the “Kendall” logo molded into the side. They’re pretty cool.
I also had to remove the old underground gasoline tanks at the garage and while we were digging them out we found an old-stule, glass coke bottle from the 1960’s that must have been tossed into the tank hole by one of the installers.
Suddenly, I’m feeling kinda old…….