Oil cooler install

It's been really HOT here which has me thinking about installing an oil cooler.

I have a 1915cc...Is this system appropriate? http://www.mooreparts.com/store/product/6975/AC117571/
And can it be installed without removing the engine?

I like the looks of the system in Troy's Blue Bandit
http://kvan.hopto.org/speedster/midnightbluespeedster.htm
Was wondering who carries the filter/pump adapter?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jay

Is it an appropriate system?

Don't see why not. I am not familiar with their "CASE OIL RETURN ADAPTER" and where, exactly, it returns the cooled/filtered oil to in the case, but the rest of the system looks like it should be fine - In fact, my system is very similar.

I would suggest, though, mounting the cooler inside of the left rear wheel well to shorten the hoses by quite a bit over installing it in the nose of the car, and also adding a thermostatically-controlled diverter valve to only direct oil to the cooler when it rises over 180 degrees.

The rest looks great.

Gordon - Do "all" kits come with a non-drain back valve or is that a function of a non drain back filter? Is the HP1 filter non drain back. Hate when you start engine and takes few seconds to refill the lines and cooler. Is it important to mount in line with crank case or is higher like above trans) ok?

Hi Gordon. I'm wondering why it would be better to have shorter lines? Does it really matter or is that just for ease of installation?

And my next question is in front or behind the wheel?

Jay

There isn't much air circulating in front of the rear wheel. Behind wheel there is room and air flow. Just have to use grill/screen to prevent rocks thrown up by wheels from doing damage. I still like over the transmission or to one side of it -- especially if its a replacement for the stock T1 oil cooler.

Long lines mean drop in pressure as T1 oil pump (even one with 30mm gears) is not designed to pump oil 12 feet -- plus it takes time to pump enough to build up the oil pressure. 911 have them in front but they have a large dry sump oil system.

Keep your stock oil cooler if at all possible -- even better if it is dog house style. Remote cooler is best for ADDITIONAL cooling, not so much as the only cooler. (Even though I have been running on a remote cooler like the one you have posted as my only cooler for 20,000 miles -- I am in the process right now of adding on a doghouse shroud and stock cooler).

And, yes, you want an oil bypass thermostat (sends oil to remote cooler after its 180).

Moore parts is a good choice. I get most of my stuff from them. Nice, and reliable.

I have a doghouse cooler and plan to leave everything in place just adding the remote cooler/fan and filter for that added protection on those realy hot days we've been getting

Jay

Geez.....site goes down for a bit and LOTS of questions pile up! OK, here goes:

I think Wolfgang wrote: "Do "all" kits come with a non-drain back valve or is that a function of a non drain back filter? Is the HP1 filter non drain back. Don't know about the kits. Haven't seen any anti-drain-back-valves on any set-ups on the SOC, but I haven't looked for any, either. I don't use HP1 filters but I believe they have an excess-pressure bypass valve that's set below 60 lbs. or so so I use WIX filters instead. Is it important to mount in line with crank case or is higher like above trans) ok? Either position seems to work just fine. MIne is mounted above the level of the case by 4-6" and seems to work fine.

troy sloan wrote: I'm wondering why it would be better to have shorter lines? Does it really matter or is that just for ease of installation? Mostly ease of installation and longer hoses mean more places to hit with rocks or debris. Line resistance mostly comes from turns as fluids in motion don't like to turn as much as go straight. I don't believe that the distance to the front would incur much additional resistance from the length - any additional turns will slow things down a bit, but you're pushing a sold column of fluid and the pump is capable of a head (pushing straight up) of about a couple of yards or more, if I remember right, so pushing oil around more-or-less in the same level as the engine won't matter a whole lot - line pressure issues are negligible. Realize that I never scored astronomically high on fluid dynamics tests, either, so this is just common sense and what we found racing Dune Buggies in their day. I've ALWAYS run a '71 or later VW cooling tower and only added an external cooler if I needed it.

Jay Strite wrote: And my next question is in front or behind the wheel?

Wolfie pretty much answered this. I have an article I wrote on installing a fan-assisted cooler behind the wheel, but I just migrated to a new laptop and haven't fully organized it yet. If I can find the article I'll email it to ya, Jay.

Thanks Gordon

I am plumbing an external fan fed cooler now and wonder if I need an in-line thermostat to cut the cooler out of the circuit until the engine warms up.
The stock doghouse cooler is fitted and this is an auxilary cooler.

The thought is to have it always in line with a 180 - 190F thermostat controlling the fan.

Ambient temperatures are 20C in the winter and 30-37C in the summer.
Engine is a 2332 at 9.5 static compression so heat control is an issue