Skip to main content

I'm back.  Installed the Mocal oil filter sandwich and re-plumbed the temp. senders to read the temps in and out of the engine to the oil filter. Photo's attached. If any of you are reading this who didn't read my first Post you'll have to back and look for the Subject: " Engine oil temp. study results".

I removed the thin-line sump sender because the temps read there were meaningless. In order to try to set this up where it's more easily readable, the following numbers (1 thru 6) correspond with the following nomenclature. 1= RPV or rear pressure relief valve. 2=T3D or Type 3 dip stick block off plate.  3=ECI or External cooler In. 4=ECO or External Cooler Out. 5=DCI or Doghouse Cooler In. 6=DCO or Doghouse Cooler Out

Ambient air temp was 80 degrees F. at the start of two test runs and the numbers are the average of the two runs like last time. Fwy speed was 70 mph on level road and Street data was stop and go in traffic. Idle test data was after 5 min at idle two times after the runs on the fwy and street. The CHT data was as follows. Street: 331F.  Fw: 325F. Idle: 329F.

To me, the most significant change was in the stability of the oil temps. and getting the oil temps. up slightly. Also I could hear the Ext. cooler fan cycling frequently except that now it didn't come on at all when at idle. Before, it would come on once it reached 180 F. and stay on until I shut off the engine.

 The External oil cooler reduces/changes the oil temp much more than the Doghouse cooler does. I believe it should. It has much more surface cooling area.  So here is the numbers. In Fahrenheit.

 

 

SEND    STRE    FWY     IDLE

 

1RPV    179     178     169

 

2TD3    182     182     175

 

3ECI    183     191     177

 

4ECO    168     180     168

 

5DCI    162     167     145

 

6DCO    158     164     141

 

I think the Mocal Sandwich makes a positive improvement and I am now confident in knowing that my oil temps are within range and that the readings I get are from a reliable place on the engine. Sender TD3 tells me what's happening in the engine. It's also a simple install if you have that block-off plate. If not I would choose to install a sender in the oil filter inlet side assuming you have a "Mocal Sandwich". Having looked at three different oil filter adapters, I think an 1/8" NPT sender could be installed in the adapter. There appears to be enough "meat" to do so.

 

Respectfully.....Bruce

 

 

DSC_0002

DSC_0003

DSC_0004

DSC_0005

Attachments

Images (4)
  • DSC_0002
  • DSC_0003
  • DSC_0004
  • DSC_0005
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Originally Posted by Lane Anderson - Mt. Pleasant, SC:

Yeah, I was wondering about that myself.  Besides the leak hazard, is there any chance that would affect the oil temp?

The rubber hose itself is an insulator, it's hot on the exhaust side, it's hot inside the hose, and the oil is travelling at a pretty good clip- I could be wrong (my wife will tell you it isn't the first time), but I don't think there's any heat transfer going on there. The exhaust will eventually damage the hose, but that's another story. Al

Thanks Guys. I see what your talking about. The photo looks worse than it really is. There is about an inch clearance all the way around that hose. I already re-routed the other one out of that area to allow more clearance. Prior to this, I had tested the temp in the now re-routed hose. There was no change meaning that the close proximity of the hose to the exhaust did not influence the temp. reading. However, I am still not comfortable even now with the remaining hose. Eventually I think it will get hard/brittle. Probably more from the 350 to 400 degree heat blowing thru from the heads and cylinders. My theory is that that air is more dominate than the radiant heat from the header (less so at idle though). Re-directing the heat a little more in that direction by installing "sled tins" does create another concern in my mind.

Bill....I like your idea of using the spark plug insulating sleeves. I really feel good that that area is not hot enough to melt your two nylon tie wraps!

 

Now that I'm pretty much satisfied with what's going on with my oil temperatures, I'm going to remove all but two of the temp. senders and re-route the oil hoses as best I can and maybe go to the expensive stainless braided type hose with those pretty colored AN fittings.  Anyone have thoughts/opinions on this type of hose and if it's really necessary. Previously I have had pretty good experience with what I am currently using

So next thing I'd like to check out is temp differences on all 4 cylinders. I'm sort of OK with the temps. I get on #3 but I want to know (on my engine) what the other three are doing. I already have the thermocouples and wiring so back to my trusty rotary switch and Dakota Gauge. I really like that DTM shroud....we'll see....maybe.

 

Again, Thank you for all your comments. I hope that the info I have posted here has been useful to some of you. I know that your comments have been to me.

 

Again....comments/opinions on the braided stainless hose?      Bruce

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×