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I have a 2008 VS with the stock 1915 motor.  My car has a/c and the oil cooler.  It used to run very cool, barely moving the temp gauge in the winter (or what passes for winter in SoCal).  Lately it runs hot on the gauge, pegging the needle at the top, however the infrared measured the cylinder temperature at 270 degrees, which the mechanic told me that they don't worry until it hits near 400 degrees.  So I have a few questions for you experts:

 

1) What is the normal range for cylinder head temperature?

 

2) Could I have a blocked oil line to the oil cooler, and/or is there a thermostat controlling a valve to the oil cooler and could that be blocked or not opening.

 

3)  For those who have a/c, what temperature ranges are you seeing on a day in the 80's or 90's.

 

4)  Anything else that can cause a car that used to run cool now run hot?

 

Thank you in advance for your replies and help.

Last edited by Pdrvr
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1-Any thing under 350'F (a temp compensated cylinder head temp gauge, sender under #3 spark plug) for just cruising is acceptable. Temps with an ir can vary over 100', depending on where the head is "shot", and the temp will be lower than with the cht gauge.

 

2- You'll have to trace the oil lines to figure out if there's a thermostat. I gather it's an "extra" oil cooler?

 

3- No idea.

 

4- These things are primarily air cooled, so ambient temps can affect a car/engine that's having cooling problems. Is it in tune? jetted correctly? hole in the firewall for air intake?

I would start with a new oil temp sensor - get the one used by the engine builder (I assume Roland Rascon), for your 1915 VS, but Kirk at VS should be able to help).  They're cheap, easy to install and if they don't either leak or get weird every 2 or 3 years then they seem to last forever.  

 

If it used to be OK, and now is registering much higher AND there's nothing blocking air flow to the fan (like a rag, huh Jack?), it doesn't smell really hot and/or is clicking, snapping or popping immediately after you shut it off and nothing else has changed, then I suspect the sensor is toast.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Hello Guys, not to high jack this thread but same problem. Installed new Mesa cooler with fan, oil stat and temp switch. First road test today and temps got up to 230 so put it back in the barn. Grounded thermostat and relay clicks but no fan. I tried to spin the fan, its stiff to turn and hot as a pistol.I tested the fan before installing and tested it after install in the car and it was fine.

 

So much for new parts.

Follow-up:

 

I think the problem may be the oil cooler fan is not working.  I have noticed in the past that I can hear the fan for approx. 5 minutes after I shut the engine off.  I don't recall if that is still the case.  According the Kirk, the fan is controlled by a thermostat switch that may be mal-functioning.  The car has spent the winter at my vacation house in the mountains of Utah and I am driving it home to SoCal this next weekend.  I made an appointment with Blackline racing, formerly Art Thraen's shop in Salt Lake City, to diagnose the problem and possibly directly wire the oil cooler fan to the ignition switch so I can safely drive it home.

 

Running the A/C is life saving when driving across Nevada.  I'm tempted to drive an extra day to drive I80 west, then drive PCH from Monterey home to OC.  I can't think of a more natural environment for the speedster than PCH.

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