This is the stock OEM VW fan housing in my motor; I swapped the aftermarket 36 hp style I had before for it; including thermostat flaps and OEM cylinder tin. I got it from a junkyard for $50.00.
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OK, I'll rephrase that: they aren't cheap unless you live in a tropical place with lots of ACVW stuff sitting in junk yards ;)
Good score, Ricardo.
Good score, Ricardo.
Well....yes and no, Stan....
There are probably more of them kicking around in the more tropical climates, but that's mostly because, thanks to our friends at the EPA, the vast majority of salvage yards all across the USA have been disappearing faster than the hobby can keep up.
Just last Fall, the last of the "decent" salvage yards in central Massachusetts shut down, but not before they held a big "Scavange Day" for the hobbyists, where a couple of hundred decended on the place to grab what they could before the end.
I got several fan shrouds for friends in the past 5 years, all at salvage yards in Mass. and RI, and never paid any more than Ricardo did. That's the good news....the BAD news is that only one of those three yards is still left, and its' days are numbered (they've already contracted for an on-site crusher).
I've also found a few in South Carolina, but the story on the salvage yards there is the same - get your stuff NOW before they close down - there is only one decent one left in the Beaufort area, and the good one near Charleston has cleared their yard and bringing in stuff only newer than 1997.
So....bottom line is that they are still available in decent shape for $50 - $75, but they're getting scarcer by the day - kind of like waterfront property - same concept...they've been plentiful up til now, but now everyone is realizing that there just aren't many left, and that goes for just about ANY pre-1990 salvage part. Pricing for just about anything is just about to skyrocket - watch them on eBay.
gn
There are probably more of them kicking around in the more tropical climates, but that's mostly because, thanks to our friends at the EPA, the vast majority of salvage yards all across the USA have been disappearing faster than the hobby can keep up.
Just last Fall, the last of the "decent" salvage yards in central Massachusetts shut down, but not before they held a big "Scavange Day" for the hobbyists, where a couple of hundred decended on the place to grab what they could before the end.
I got several fan shrouds for friends in the past 5 years, all at salvage yards in Mass. and RI, and never paid any more than Ricardo did. That's the good news....the BAD news is that only one of those three yards is still left, and its' days are numbered (they've already contracted for an on-site crusher).
I've also found a few in South Carolina, but the story on the salvage yards there is the same - get your stuff NOW before they close down - there is only one decent one left in the Beaufort area, and the good one near Charleston has cleared their yard and bringing in stuff only newer than 1997.
So....bottom line is that they are still available in decent shape for $50 - $75, but they're getting scarcer by the day - kind of like waterfront property - same concept...they've been plentiful up til now, but now everyone is realizing that there just aren't many left, and that goes for just about ANY pre-1990 salvage part. Pricing for just about anything is just about to skyrocket - watch them on eBay.
gn
Anybody thought of hitting up Kirk at Vintage or John at JPS to see if we can "recycle" the ones that come off the donor cars?
I'm just sayin'..........
I'm just sayin'..........
Salvage yards are slowly shutting their gates due to strict EPA regulations. All Insurance Companies now utlize salvage auctions such as Insurance Auto Auctions IAA and COPART.
Late model totals and theft recoveries are posted in virtual auctions with the majority of the vehicles being sold to exporters and shipped to Europe for either rebuilding or parts.
This is where I get 75% of my vehicles that I haul in my auto transport business - moving these vehicles from the auction facilities to the ports for export.
It's a real eye opener as to just how big the US auto export business is and of course, most of the exporters are from the east i.e Russia, Saudi Arabia, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Denmark, are just a few of the destinations.
Late model totals and theft recoveries are posted in virtual auctions with the majority of the vehicles being sold to exporters and shipped to Europe for either rebuilding or parts.
This is where I get 75% of my vehicles that I haul in my auto transport business - moving these vehicles from the auction facilities to the ports for export.
It's a real eye opener as to just how big the US auto export business is and of course, most of the exporters are from the east i.e Russia, Saudi Arabia, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Denmark, are just a few of the destinations.
Actually guys; I got all the OEM tinware, fan, thermostat mechanism, etc. from junkyards in the mainland US. Chris Howard at
http://www.howardvw.com/index.html sells a lot of that stuff reasonably; he's in the Long Island area.
http://www.howardvw.com/index.html sells a lot of that stuff reasonably; he's in the Long Island area.
I'll 2nd "howard"!!!!!!!! I posted on thesamba that I needed a fuel pump for a fuel injected bug. He came back in minutes asking for 1/3
what others wanted. Had it the next day!!!!!
what others wanted. Had it the next day!!!!!
Thanks for the link, gentlemen. There are no VW's in salvage yards here, just as there are no good shops. Really.
Hi guys;
I am new around and have a question about the porsche 911 fan shroud. Noone has mentioned about it. Is this because it is expensive or ineffective? What happens to the tower cooler in the standart type 1 engine when a porsche shroud is applied to it? And what would be the most effective method to cool a type I engine with the porsche 911 shroud? thanks for the replies.
I am new around and have a question about the porsche 911 fan shroud. Noone has mentioned about it. Is this because it is expensive or ineffective? What happens to the tower cooler in the standart type 1 engine when a porsche shroud is applied to it? And what would be the most effective method to cool a type I engine with the porsche 911 shroud? thanks for the replies.
Burak, I have a 911 setup on my type1. It works for me, but does not provide even cooling to all 4 cylinders. Specifically, number 4 runs hot, as it is closest to the fan and the clockwise flow is away from that cylinder. You are limited for distributors, only the 009 or SVDA will fit. The oil cooler is removed, installing a block-off plate. Then the engine MUST be full-flowed, with an external cooler and filter. I also installed a thermostat, which allows the engine to heat up.
Apart from the DTM system the best cooling system for these engines is the stock doghouse fan housing.
I totally concur and the DTM should only be used AFTER you have experienced temperature control issues with the stock system that could not be solved with tuning manipulation.
Most overheating issues are caused by misconfigurations at build time or engines being ran out of tune.
Most overheating issues are caused by misconfigurations at build time or engines being ran out of tune.
thanks Daniel, what kind of external oil cooler have you on the engine and where did you locate it? in the front below the bumper or infront of the transmission on the driver side? I guess a cooler with a fan is a must but how many rows should be chosen? Is it possible to solve the overheating of the 4th if a second external cooler is used?
Burak, it sure seems as though all of your questions have pretty much been answered in detail (and then some) in the previous postings in this thread.
Burak, the 4th cylinder runs hot because of an inherent design flaw of adapting a 911 fan, designed to be mounted in a different spot on a six cylinder engine. Adding another oil cooler will not fix this. My oil temps run just fine with thermostatically controlled oil flow to a 96 plate MESA cooler. Also there is a relay-controlled fan, also thermostat-equipped. The cooler is mounted over the trans in my 550 Spyder, mid-engined car. There is plenty of room under the rear clip in a Spyder for a lot of accessories.
Listen to Jake, use a stock doghouse and if that doesn't work, get the DTM. They are the best two options. The 911 shroud looks better than it works, no matter who makes it and what is done to it.
Listen to Jake, use a stock doghouse and if that doesn't work, get the DTM. They are the best two options. The 911 shroud looks better than it works, no matter who makes it and what is done to it.
In the end, it's not John Steel living with your car, it's you. Get a DTM, and a big oil cooler (with all the goodies- nice bypass thermostat, fan thermostat, etc.), and a 1-3/4" sidewinder exhaust.
New car dealers
New car dealers
Ok,, well I know this may seem a like a silly question,, but then I am a newbie. Can anyone tell me what type of housing I have ?? Doghouse, 36hp, DTM, other ?? I am only sure that it is not a 911 style !!
thanks,
Alan
thanks,
Alan
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It's an aftermarket housing. Usually not the best for cooling.
Very popular with the sandrail/dunebuggy crowd but my suggestion is to get a VW Thing housing or any factory shroud, not a knock off but the real thing. Makes a world of difference in cooling just not as pretty.
Very popular with the sandrail/dunebuggy crowd but my suggestion is to get a VW Thing housing or any factory shroud, not a knock off but the real thing. Makes a world of difference in cooling just not as pretty.
Why are we limited with just 009 or svga distributors with the 911 fan shroud? By the way what does a SVGA distributor stand for?
Single Vacuum Dual Advance (stock VW distributor)
http://www.vw-resource.com/right_dizzy.html#SVDA
The reason is there just isn't enough room for anything else. The shroud only allows enough room for a stock or 009 distributor cap.
http://www.vw-resource.com/right_dizzy.html#SVDA
The reason is there just isn't enough room for anything else. The shroud only allows enough room for a stock or 009 distributor cap.
Damn you Larry "fast fingers" Jowdy :)
I'm going back to work...
I'm going back to work...
Size limitation. The Mallory is larger and runs into the 911 style fins.
Never heard of SVGA, but SVDA is single vacuum dual advance. Probably a typo.
Never heard of SVGA, but SVDA is single vacuum dual advance. Probably a typo.
thanks people, you are kind
Alan - you will have massive cooling problems with your setup. there is nothing stopping the exhaust heat from "cooling" your negine. that plus the fact that is one of the least efficent cooling setups out there. It does very little to cool #3 (and #4 for that matter). And.. it looks like you have your oil cooler mounted right in front of the fan intake (sucking in even more heat).
if you live in a hot climate - you either already have cracked heads, or will shortly with that setup.
a stock doghouse or 36hp with proper engine bay sealing will cool considerably better.
if you live in a hot climate - you either already have cracked heads, or will shortly with that setup.
a stock doghouse or 36hp with proper engine bay sealing will cool considerably better.
The shroud pictured above is THE WORST on the planet!!! I saw temperature differentials of up to 200 degrees between 4 cylinders with that arrangement!
Oh God!; that engine HAS to be COOKED at this point. I suggest you get rid of all those tins and fan housing, install OEM VW tins and totally enclose the engine compartment to isolate the top of the motor with respect to the bottom of the motor.
And on top of that some rocket scientist installed the oil cooler over the cooling fan entrance!!! Thats the best way to cool the oil and elevate head temps to an unreal level!!!! Take all the heat from your oil and direct it to the heads- WOW!!
and while you are in there - relocate the fuel filter to not directly above a heat source. (ie: move to transaxle area or under fuel tank)
you *can* take constructive critisism, can't you?
you *can* take constructive critisism, can't you?
Wow...and finally make cool fresh air available to the top part of the engine (engine compartment) by either opening up a hole on the firewall (see CMC assembly instructions) or using some sort of a scoop to bring fresh air in from the bottom of the car (around the torsion bar area) and connect it with a hose to the engine compartment.
If your thinking of the Bergman fan you really need to do your homework. Here is some basics about fans http://www.hvac-toolbox.com/fan-types-d_142.html
The DTM uses the most efficent fan configuration - centrifugcal fan. Yes the germans had a great idea .. just someone else refined it. No air leaks .
Jake we were playing around with some computor models similar to your new system. Very impressive. YOu know its going to be better than your DTM.
Joe
The DTM uses the most efficent fan configuration - centrifugcal fan. Yes the germans had a great idea .. just someone else refined it. No air leaks .
Jake we were playing around with some computor models similar to your new system. Very impressive. YOu know its going to be better than your DTM.
Joe
Joe, the C4S system is another member of the DTM family, using the same internal partitioning to balance the charges to the upper plenums. With the dual inlet fan the engine bay MUST have added air for the system to work well.. You'll see new decklids being designed to compliment the C4S system as they are being developed with the cooling system.