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I'm in the process of having hoses made up for the remote filter/cooler setup I bought - my only local source, is a meticulous guy who has a commercial hydraulic hose business. If anyone's interested, I can report on how all this goes...but here's the question. Anyone know what the flow rate is, for a 2110 with a full-flow case? My hose guy is, for reasons that're unclear to me, anxious to know. I think it's a matter of overkill on his part....but I told him I'd try to find out. Thanks, again.
1957 Vintage Speedsters(Speedster)
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I'm in the process of having hoses made up for the remote filter/cooler setup I bought - my only local source, is a meticulous guy who has a commercial hydraulic hose business. If anyone's interested, I can report on how all this goes...but here's the question. Anyone know what the flow rate is, for a 2110 with a full-flow case? My hose guy is, for reasons that're unclear to me, anxious to know. I think it's a matter of overkill on his part....but I told him I'd try to find out. Thanks, again.
Too many variables. Type of oil pump, size of oil pump gears, gear clearance, etc etc

Just tell him to use -8 hose. I've been using that size for years on 100's of engines with no problems.

If he wants to get into a philosophical discussion about oil traveling through hoses, tell him that you know -10 is always better as it has a slightly larger diameter but it's also harder to bend and curve around obstacles .

Hopefully, not too divergent from the topic: I have, recently, had a discussion with a mechanic regarding the addition of a 'spin-on' filter and oil cooler to my '79 stock Beetle.
My previous experience with air cooled was a 1800 +/-, home made(pipe) buggy that I used on the beach for years with no problem. I drove the hell out of it and came to respect the air cooled concept. My '97 IM (a daily driver with a 1600 cc) was definitely challenged by the Houston heat/humidity and 'overheated' in traffic. I had an opportunity to sell it and did without fixing the problem. I am building an '82 IM that has a larger mill and want to make sure it is dependable. Most of the postings on this site are positive about the added capacity of the system, etc.
This mechanic has a fairly good rep., but i have limited access to ALL customers, etc. He states that it won't make a difference in performance, etc.; one runs the risk of creating leaks, Ed (somebody expert in aircooled for umpteen years) has published data that says it is a waste, ya da da da da.
I have A/C in both vehicles, but, let's face it: I dont come off as someone who knows &%@^! I must not because I was willing to pay this guy to install the stuff and he is saying that I don't need it.
I remain: CORNFUSED. Is it worth it to have the added capacity and therefore, the added piece of mind? I want to drive without having to use my AAA (or AA) membership :-{)))!
thanks!

GG

George, In a sense, you're mechanic is correct, you won't experience any better performance with an oil filter or an external cooler. What you will experience is longevity and a cooler running engine, especially when the AC compressor is working.

Your engine (all air cooled engines) rely on 2 things to cool the engine. Air and oil. You can't do very much to increase the air flow but you can ensure that your engine receives the coolest air possible by making sure the engine tin is installed correctly not allowing exhaust heat to enter the upper engine compartment and by maiing sure that the tin is installed correctly and you're not losing air through gaps.

Your cylinders are cooled by air directed across the cylinder cooling fins. Your engine internals such as rods, crank, bearings, pistons, valve stems, rocker arms, push rods, cam etc etc are cooled by the oil. (Obviously, the oil also lubricates these moving parts.) Oil starts to break down around 260 degree's so the cooler the oil, the better lubrication you have and the cooler the oil, the cooler the components stay. Hot bearings will eventually self destruct as will other components.
A portion of the air produced by the fan also passes through the internal oil cooler. This was designed to help keep the oil cool.

The internal cooler hasn't changed much over the many years of the VW engine and the latest was when VW moved the cooler out of the cylinder air stream and called it a dog house shroud. This helped keep the #3 and 4 cylinder cooler by moving the obstruction of air (the internal cooler) to outside the air stream.

So lets go back and review. Your engine isn't solely cooled by air. Oil plays a HUGE part in the cooling process. Naturally, if the oil is cooler then so will be the engine.

When Porsche designed the type 547 engine, they created that engine with a dry sump configuration. In other words, no oil remined in the crank case but was pumped to a holding tank. The oil was cooled and returned to the engine via a pump.

The 911 engine works the same way... Porsche went a step further and increased the oil capacity of the 911 to around 12 quarts. On their early performance engines, they added an external oil cooler. (Later engines (much larger cc capacity) an external oil cooler was a stock item)

You don't have a dry sump system, nor do you hold 12 quarts of oil. Your stock engine only holds around 3 quarts so, the more oil your engine has, the longer it takes for it to heat up. As the oil passes through the engine, heat is transfered to the oil and away from the moving components. The more oil, the more heat transfer.
Now, add a filter and you've added more oil. Add an external oil cooler and you've gained 2 fold. More oil (in the lines and in the cooler) and, you've added an additional way for the oil to dissapate heat into the atmosphere.
It's a win win situation.

Let's go back to the beginning of this post. When the AC compressor is activated (AC turned on and in Texas that's all the time) You're engine is working much harder to maintain the same RPM's. """engine working harder equals more heat"""""

Since you can't get more air the only thing you can do is to increase the oil cooling capabilities. More oil and more oil cooling equals cooler oil equals a cooler engine.
I knew I could count on you guys. I talked to the mechanic again today and he is adamant abut my not needing the additional oil capacity. He says that Gene berg did research that indicated such. I am needing mental health services due to the logic of more oil=more cooling...I do not think that I will get 'better performance', but, I do 'dress-up' in my bidness (jeans and shirt),and do need the A/C. Having the luxury of a cool car= better performance. I will get it installed and/or will have a different mechanic.
Now, where is the best place to mount the cooler? I did get a fan with it, so I think it should be down under somewhere where the rocks can't abuse. The spin on filter is destined for the passenger side EC wall. I can get plenty hose.

Thanks and regards,

GG
George, give this to your mechanic:

http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=229

http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=244

Rather than have you read a very long article, I've cut and pasted a paragraph. In this article, Berg is talking about those that remove the internal oil cooler and go strictly with a remote cooler. You're not doing this, you're just adding some more cooling.

Quote = Gene Berg (when he was alive)


If you absolutely must hang a cooler on your car, ADD IT to a full flow system (remember, full flow comes directly from the pump) and maintain the original stock oil cooler. Do not substitute it for the original.



George-

All good info from the crew here on SOC!

IMHO, find a DIFFERENT mechanic who will do as the 'customer' requests! It seems this has become more of an 'ego' thing for him rather than a 'fee for service'. It would be tantamount to a paint shop telling you they won't paint your car with the color you've chosen because they 'believe' it would diminish the appearance of your car.

...I'm just saying...
Low, and behold! The articles did it...He brought up Berg's expertise, and I gave it back to him. It is probably going to cost me a bundle, but he is going to install it.
I read on this site (i think) that someone has placed the cooler on the transmission? I ain't sure...comments/ It is a '79 superbeetle cab. the A/C condenser is in the front middle, so no room there.

Thanks,

GG
George, good to hear.. Sometimes you just have to dazzle em with the "real" facts. I'm glad those articles were an influence.

Anyplace in the air stream is best, even with an auxillary fan but sometimes it's just a matter of finding room to mount the cooler and on top of the transaxle may be the only place practical. I've mounted them in this location of several cars and the work well. But, if you can mount it in the air stream, it's better.
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