oil leak

Picture, please...

car's not here will send picture as soon as I can.   thanks

Dean;

 

Is this what you are referring to?   Art

Art, I figured it out, the oil filler container has a gasket about 6 inches down, I removed the 2 screws and made a gasket for it, looks like it worked, thanks for the response, take care

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I realize you fixed the leak, but do you have an aluminum breather/filler box that sits on top of the original oil filler? Something like this-

 

 

I recently bought a used Claudes Buggie (CB) "performance" oil filler breather combo like that.  There seems to be some reviews that it can leak.  I like the clean almost 356 look of it.  Any secrets to get it to seal and not leak. Pictures not of my engine (darn). I do have matching carb air filters on Dells and matching coil standoff though.

 

 

Wolfgang- Is that going to fit in your car with the breather on the top like that?

Once - then the hood hinge would modify it!  I'll vent it somewhere else.  Regretfully those aren't photos of my engine.  Love that exhaust!

The exhaust is a type 1 or type 2 A1 sidewinder. I have the speedster version on my car. Regarding the breather box , that top breather port can be turned into a hose fitting. Alternately, you can run a breather hose out the bottom of that canister.

out the bottom will drip,drip,drip.If I had to have that one I would add atleast 2 vents to the rear up as high as possiable than run them to a filter(never run them to the air cleaner on the carbs,the mist just cakes up in the combustion chambers causing detonation&other issues). I also would not have any of the "mesh in there" to make a mesh out of things if it happens to loose a little bit..... now onto another topic...there is one that looks alot closer to the 356 unit and only cost around $50. unlike the berg unit that cost around $185....and leeks..and dosent fit well with hexbar linkage...( I have a buddy with the berg&Ive seen others,so thats my point of referance).Ive only seen the $50. one in pics,I thought I had ordered one but it never showed up,so I checked....crap a $200+ order for the free shipping&I forgot to add it. Ive seen it a few places,dont know who makes it,but I do know appletree has them as that is who I thought I got it from.and the price varries,Ive seen it for around $30 or less also. as for the exhaust shown...what a mess who would want that thing on thier car?? yess I will have one please!!

Greg:

 

I have a CB breather and it can be made to not leak.

 

It comes with a cover gasket that is a pour-formed o-ring the shape of the cover.  It lasts about a year or two, or longer if you don't remove the cover.  When you do, it doesn't seal anymore so discard the seal, clean up the cover and degrease it, then lay it down flat and carefully inject Permatex Black silicon RTV into the valley where the formed o-ring goes.  Use a small tip to get a 1/8"-3/16" pour-formed o-ring in the cover.

 

Put the cover aside overnight to let it firm up and then assemble it as normal.

 

There are 3 or 4 screws holding the cover on, each with a flat metal washer and rubber washer under the head.  After the first removal those will all leak.  Go to an ACE hardware store and get some  flat rubber washers about 1/8" thick that have an ID just slightly smaller than the OD of the screws.  Assemble them with the rubber washer between the flat washer and the cover. Be gentle with the torque or the rubber washers will deform.  I've tried o-rings there, too, with mixed results.

 

The seal between the alternator pedestal and the breather case is the hardest.  I almost tried running a big o-ring between them this time, but chickened out and went back to a rubber/cork/composite stuff, 1/8"-3/16" thick and had cut into a big, tight-fitting washer.  Assemble the big gland nut into the case, then the composite washer on the threaded end and put the breather onto the pedestal.  Tighten with one of those spiffy, gland-nut tools but don't go so tight that the washer deforms.

 

Any threaded fittings on the case should be assembled with thread sealer, never teflon tape.  I have a couple of 5/8" ID, PCV 90 degree fittings on the top of the case, each one (heading left and right) going to the top of my air filters.

 

One small (1/4" ID) braided stainless hose (I used a kitchen faucet feed hose) going from the case bottom to the fuel pump block-off plate as an oil return to the case.  Seems to work well.

 

I don't happen to have a mesh in this one but think it's a good idea.  We used to use them in the '60's and 70's on racing engines with good luck.  We always used the copper "Chore Girl" as  the metal mesh was a bit thicker.   We ran a home-brew breather setup with the chore girl stuffed into breather can (a fruit juice can) and vented either outside or into the air cleaners. 

Gordon, I appreciate all the great information, as of now the only leam I see is above the lower neck and up higher where the oil container where you add oil as being the leaking part, I took it a part yesterday and made a gasket from local auto parts and it seems to work at the moment, did you ever change the oil sump ate, it seems to always have some oil there. Again thanks for the HP I a future repair.

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... or you could just weld it on like I did...

 

Stan - trust me......if I welded it on it would be certain to leak like a sieve at the weld.....

Laughing about that. I paid to have mine done as well. My TIG skills are something less than professional grade.

 

The welded version does do away with all the rigmarole I went through before just welding it.

 

Why doesn't somebody just make one that's all one piece? That's a great question, and I ask myself stuff like this almost weekly. There are so many things it seems the aftermarket would have picked up on (combination alternator stands/breather towers, etc.) that remain unresolved 50 yrs later. Why can't we even buy a decent distributor, for example.

 

Some of this stuff would be a great opportunity for somebody with ties to the far-east supply chain to tackle.

The csp one is a single piece.  Also beaucoup bucks.