OIL Leak/911 Fan Shroud

I want to check the oil cooler block off seals
Can the alternator in the 911 fan shroud be pulled without dropping the motor?
If so, Can I get to the stock oil cooler block off plate?

Well after cleaning and ispecting I think I found the leak.
There is a small crack in the block where the oil lines go into the block.[IMG]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c81/crhemi/IMG_0184.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c81/crhemi/IMG_0185.jpg[/IMG]

Is this catastrophic?

Not yet sure if this is the source...

"Is this catastrophic".....

Someone tightened the fitting a bit too far into the case.
You can repair this with a little JB Weld.
Grind a small groove in the case, clean the area well to remove all oil residue and apply the JB, let it set up for at least 24 hours.
~Alan

Hey Alan...I tried some stuff called Dev Con for aluminum and it worked great. It dries hard enough that you can even drill and tap it. Tom

Tnx for the reminder Tom, yes Dev Con is great stuff too.

Kelly F had one just like that on his - he fixed it with JB Weld and to my knowledge it hasn't leaked yet. Well worth try - considering the alternative!

Bill, that looks like a job for "smackumpucky", aka JB Weld. Kelly is a big believer.

My last can of Dev Con was $45 bucks, so I know which one is the cheaper fix.

Thanks guys. Can/should I wrap the fitting with teflon tape?
Or, should I not remove it at all and just smack it?

Shouls I back out a thread or two first?

I found this while cleaning, a shaving came off about the size of a nickel. I think/know someone tried to patch it before me.

I read (think with VDO sending unit instructions) NOT to use teflon tape as it insulated the unit from being grounded plus the heat causes the tape to break down and possibly circulate/clough in the oil system. Directions said to use Permatex gasket sealer. I'd say don't risk removing it - if you can seal the crack with it in.

Here's link - see NOTE-
http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-123.pdf

yeah, everything I've heard is to keep teflon tape well away from your oil system. Go to an auto parts store and get some permatex thread sealer if you really need something, but I would just clean up the area really well and apply the J-B Weld.

Even better, email Kelly Frazer and ask him what he used to clean his case and what smackemputty he used. He had really good luck with whatever he did and used.

gn

When it comes to thread sealer, this is the ONLY stuff I use:

http://www.jomar.com/products/pdf/Finished%20PDF%20-%20for%20review/WhiteStuff.pdf

Bill-In your pic posts (left one) is your line "binding" or stressing the boss? If so, you might want to relax the line a bit since the boss has already started to fail. Just an observation!? The fitting is NPT, correct? Mag case or alum? If alum, could be welded.

Scott brings up a great point that people don't always realize.
NPT=National Pipe Thread
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/npt-national-pipe-taper-threads-d_750.html

There is a taper to the thread and when tightened actually puts side pressure on the port, expanding it slightly. I don't think this is your problem because the stress crack would have started closer to the port entrance, but hey, you never know. It may have been a weak spot.
My luck usually falls short when it comes to quickie fixes but good luck with yours!

Scott brings up a great point that people don't always realize.
NPT=National Pipe Thread
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/npt-national-pipe-taper-threads-d_750.html

There is a taper to the thread and when tightened actually puts side pressure on the port, expanding it slightly. I don't think this is your problem because the stress crack would have started closer to the port entrance, but hey, you never know. It may have been a weak spot.
My luck usually falls short when it comes to quickie fixes but good luck with yours!