Oil Leaking 1915cc 2010 VS

Difficulty depends on where it's actually leaking.

and how much it's leaking.

We're not trying to bust your chops (well, maybe a little), but if it's leaking from the valve covers or the sump/drain plate, it's a relatively easy fix - new gaskets and an hours time and you're done.  If it's from the pushrod tubes it's a little harder to fix, but still, not that bad.  If it's coming from an external oil hose or hose fitting, sometimes it's just a matter of tightening the connection.  But then, if it's coming from between the transmission and where the engine mates to it, it usually means a leaking engine crankshaft seal or tranny input shaft seal and THEN you'll have to have someone pull the engine to get to the bad seal.

So.......get under there and find out exactly where it is leaking from and let us know and we can suggest to DIY or send it out.

BTW:  If it's a small, nuisance leak...a few drops whenever you park...and it's coming from a small hole right below the crankshaft pulley (the pulley at the bottom of the fan belt), then believe it or not, that's normal, especially when driven hard in hot weather.  It's designed that way.  You can spend lots of time and money to make it stop from there, but it's usually not worth it.  Instead, get a cheap cookie sheet at WalMart and put it on the floor under the drip.

And if the engine has a condensed water drain pipe, you will have normal small oil drips from there too. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...ceb6f2fbbcb1#6205834

Makes sure the sump isn't over filled before looking further - drain excess off if it is.

Try filling the oil a bit below capacity, you may find this helps.....

I would never fill below the capicty as these engines dontr have much oil in them to start with. get some good cleaner(dollar stors has some great cleaner,awassom yelleo ,orange & bbq grill cleaner, in pray battles for about......$1+ tac's. sprey the cleaner on where ever the oil or dirt crap is lett it soak for about 10 min then with a good garden hose &spray nozzle wash the crap off of it, repeet 2 more times to be sure you have it all, you can put a baggie over the dist&wires and hold on with a ruggerber band so that portion dosent get all wet, and dont spray your air cleaners.you can bag them too. I was at a freinds shop the other day and looking at his bug that I built the motor for and he says when it's real hot the oil light will flash when he comes to a stop, so i did some checking, the engine&everything under the bonnett was so fricken hot & couldent hardly get out the dipsticker.so I went to checking, the engine compartment seal wasent in right, none of the cooling seals were working right, big gaps, bent tin,and when I reached around to feal the fan it was full of crap dirtfunk crap, the engine dosent spew oil, it does have a drip on the drain plug, thats it. but with out the engine compartment sealed up like it should be it was sucking all the crap off the road up into the fan&everything else, and the heat from the heater boxes right up recirculating to the fan & back down & back up oil cooler heat being recirculated, but the fan with a;ll the crap in it was amazing.so if the fan needs cleaning do it too, spray, clean turn motor so you can do other portions of the fan a few times. now that you have it clean, you can find where the leek is coming from.....hopefuly.then we can help with what to do....hopefuly. , if you cant figure this out Im sure somebody will repost in english, as that is not my first language.

Filling slightly below capacity is a proven method to help in excessive case pressurization w/o oil starvation ...in 40 years of tooling type 1 has not one has gone south.

No one mentioned weight oil being used?  Synthetic/semi-synthetic is by design thinner and slippery-ier. If there is a small imperfection in a seal - it will find it. Especialls, if crankcase pressure exixts that will further force oil out to if not vented thru an oil breather vent.

Yes. The way the question is posed answers itself: take it somewhere.

 I dont beleave it. oil is slinging everywhere in the motor everywhere!!I have seen somany expired vw motors from oil starvation it's redickulass ( going both south&north, and eastwest too). your fooling your self if you think your doing something that is axceptable for the engine. so if the drain plate has a leek just keep lowering the oil level till ti stops leeking, or when a oil cooler seal is leeking? great info on how to efup your car. fix it right and be done before it needs a compleate new assy, or live with the leek and keep oil between the lines,diapers are also nice to have for the drips so you dont funk up somebody elses clean spot.
   and yes synthetic will leek sooner than regular oil unless there is a big hole from a "low fill"then it realy dosent matter it's gonna leek till it stops leeking..... and oil leek when parked.....it's probably leeking as you drive it too, but a little hard to see from the drivers seat....most of the time.

 exsessive case pressure.fix it.

That's easier said than done, Mark. There's a lot of "new" engines out there blowing by the rings pretty badly. "Fixing it" means new rings, and probably new cylinders.

I agree that running the level low on an engine without an extended sump is an invitation to disaster (and not ideal for an engine with one). But on an engine with blow-by, it helps keep the oil inside the case.

The ting is, we're all just spouting off here. We know nothing at all about how much oil, where it's coming from, or anything else about the leak.

The original poster was vague to the point of proving his need for professional assistance with the problem. Let's wait to see what his shop tells him.

I wonder if Neppo took his car in to have it looked at.