Oil Pressure

I had a line to the cooler blow today. WHAT A MESS! Thank god for the pressure gauge as I don't think I would have seen the light as soon.
I have a dual sender to the light and 0-100psi gauge. At idle (hot) the
gauge reads 25 at 3000rpm I get 80+. Whadya think guys too much on the high end? Should I try to reduce the pressure or what?(and how) Anyway I'm going to have to rethink and redo the oil lines to the cooler.

BD

I will be interested in everyones posts also. I'll be hooking up a cooler sometime the winter.

Jerome

This was also posted on the CLF. The answer to your question is that 25 psi hot is fine but 80 psi hot is not. You either have a restriction to flow or the oil pressure relief valve is stuck.

The pressure relief valve should open at about 65 psi and bypass oil back into the sump. I assume you have a dual relief valve engine case so the high pressure relief valve is the one at the front near the flywheel. Remove both valves and springs and make sure they are the right type, don't stick, are in the right locations (different piston types), and the springs are the right length. If a valve is stuck you can buy a special tool to remove it or try inserting a threading tap into it's hollow bottom then pulling it out. Buy a Bently VW shop manual for the details on valves and springs.

Make sure your oil line form the pump is going to the correct oil filter adapter port; if you got the oil lines backwards and have a filter with a pressure relief valve that could probably cause the problem.
(Message Edited 9/11/2003 10:29:56 AM)

Thanks, George, was hoping you would post on this one. I read your reply to a past thread where you said 25 at idle and 50 or so at 3000 so I took my manual to work to look up the valves. I'm not crazy about the barb fittings that come with these thermo valves, they are conical. I like
the fittings that have the little trumpet horn shape at the end so the hose and clamp has no chance of slipping off. Better yet if I can hook up with someone that makes up hoses with the flared fittings on them, I may go that direction. ie. no hose clamps.

BD

Bill, braided S/S lines with teflon internal lining and AN fittings are probably a better bet then hoses and clamps. There are also some specially designed fittings that take special push-on hoses that don't use clamps and don't leak. And then you can get "exotic" with quick disconnect fitting hoses, etc., if you want to...
(Message Edited 9/11/2003 4:27:23 PM)

If anyone needs a set of aeroquip brand push on, no clamp ,fittings, I've got some I don't need. I think enough to plumb an oil cooler or remote filter. Let me know. Eddie

Eddie, those aren't cheap. I just finished plumbing my oil cooler, and oil filter ,all with stainless "Earls", and I've got almost $200 in just stainless braid hose, and fittings.... and that doesn't count the $100.00 cast aluminum System 1 oil filter or the cooling radiator..but hey it looks cool.

Gclarke

I installed a sending unit on my cover that sits over the stock oil cooler.(I'm running a 911 type shroud). I also installed a big red warning light below my dash. The light is set to go on when the oil pressure drops below 20/30 pounds. I like this set up better than a gauge, because while you look at your gauge every few minutes for so, the big red light gets your attention immediately.
Ron

Eddie, what size did you use? 10AN? These look like they are easy to work with. The only catch is I'll have to pull the fan shroud to get to the fittings at the by-pass adapter.

BD
(Message Edited 9/11/2003 9:41:01 PM)

Bill, I had recommended #8 for my engine. And thats what I used.



Gclarke

Ron, I asked Henry to install an audio alarm in parallel with the oil pressure idiot light - no looking involved, if you hear the noise hit the clutch, kill the ignition, and coast to a stop. Radio Shack sells 12V audio stuff.

The fittings I have are 45 degree, AN8. I think I have 6 or 8, and sold for about $15 ea. Eddie

Well, after pressure washing the oil from the wheel well and undercarriage, I found a kinked hose that caused the leak. I'm still going to redo the lines with new. Also got a better look at the rear of the fan shroud and will be able to get to the fittings on the by-pass
fixture on the block. The fittings are sticking out of the shroud just enough to be accessed. I'm also going to pull the relief valves and investigate the high pressure problem. May as well check the valve
clearances while I'm down there also. Fun Fun Fun! They're calling for rain here for the next 4 days anyway.

BD

I dug into my tasks Sat. and found I have a single relief engine case.
The cap was a bear to get off, but the spring and piston came out easily.
The aftermarket spin off filter casting is bolted right over the oil
pump.(no lines involved). I'm picking up oil line tomorrow and finish that job. That way I can run the engine to check pressure with a mechanical gauge just to see if the VDO unit is accurate. I guess if it's still high, I'll have to check into a different spring for the relief valve.

BD

Bill, if you have a single relief valve case it is only an oil cooler bypass (bypasses the cooler when the oil is cold). I'm surprised that you have an early engine case since the double valve cases have been around for a long time - look again for the second bypass valve - it would be at the right front bottom of the engine.

Yes, believe it or not, I looked 3 times, and couldn't believe it. That's
the only thing I wasn't crazy about when I bought the car. No build sheet. But the price was right for what I got. I know it has Brazil on the heads and case. Not even sure as to bore/stroke. I can check stroke easy enough, but bore size I don't know. It runs really good and doesn't even try to overheat. I guess that means I should buy the Bentley manual
for 69 and earlier.

BD
(Message Edited 9/15/2003 3:57:49 PM)

Bill, If its a Brazilian case- it's almost gotta be dual relief.

I'll have to double check the case,when I set the valves I know I saw
Brazil on the heads. I went out again last evening and looked and cant find the front relief valve. I have a clear picture in my workshop
manual of both relief valves location and the front one is just not there. Bummer!

BD
(Message Edited 9/16/2003 3:16:51 PM)