Skip to main content

Closed15 replies

Oil Pressure Regulators and Full Flow Pumps

FM Former Member
Friends,
I have belabored asking this question, but now I have heard too many (2 really) conflicting opinions that beg resolution. Question first: When running a "Full Flow" Oil pump, does the rear pressure regulator remain in place or get removed?
Situation second: I don't knwo much about the engine I bought, or VW motors in general, but I bought this as the third componant of a kit needing completion. It's a 1954cc (by virtue of a 76.5mm crank) disp., with this "Full Flow" (differentiated from 'un-full' flow??) pump, and hydraulic lifters, in an aftermarket case, dual fan/oil coolers, and etc. The owner told me that he blew off a spin on filter before I bought it, but it was because the regulator was in and should have been out. He 'remembered' this detail later on, after I had bought it, and offered it as the solution to the pressure buildup.
I got the motor running last week, without the regulator, but heard quite a racket from the motor. I presumed this was a lack of oil (3 qrts. in) to the lifters, once the oil left the sump and filled the filters. It definately took another qt. once the trial was over, and I had moved on. A friend then told me that "no-way" should the regular be taken out, full flow or not. HELP !!
That's it, unless you have a specific point to clarify.
Please don't use the word "chump" when writing back, even if it's appropriate!!
-Time
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

FM Former Member
Friends,
I have belabored asking this question, but now I have heard too many (2 really) conflicting opinions that beg resolution. Question first: When running a "Full Flow" Oil pump, does the rear pressure regulator remain in place or get removed?
Situation second: I don't knwo much about the engine I bought, or VW motors in general, but I bought this as the third componant of a kit needing completion. It's a 1954cc (by virtue of a 76.5mm crank) disp., with this "Full Flow" (differentiated from 'un-full' flow??) pump, and hydraulic lifters, in an aftermarket case, dual fan/oil coolers, and etc. The owner told me that he blew off a spin on filter before I bought it, but it was because the regulator was in and should have been out. He 'remembered' this detail later on, after I had bought it, and offered it as the solution to the pressure buildup.
I got the motor running last week, without the regulator, but heard quite a racket from the motor. I presumed this was a lack of oil (3 qrts. in) to the lifters, once the oil left the sump and filled the filters. It definately took another qt. once the trial was over, and I had moved on. A friend then told me that "no-way" should the regular be taken out, full flow or not. HELP !!
That's it, unless you have a specific point to clarify.
Please don't use the word "chump" when writing back, even if it's appropriate!!
-Time
FM Former Member
Gene Berg pump covers with the check valve work similarly to the later 911 bypass system; they channel excess oil back to the pump intake. However, the Berg covers have been known to fail - stick open or have a piece of crud block closing of the valve, either of which will cause oil pressure loss.

Most pump cover filter setups are restrictive to flow and so may reduce your oil pressure.
FM Former Member
Tim, Without the pressure relief valve and spring in place, you created a internal oil leak into the sump of the engine. It does not matter if you have solid or hydraulic lifters, you still will have no oil pressure. The valves purpose is a controlled "oil leak" if you will. When oil pressure is higher than the tension of the spring, the valve opens and dumps the oil into the engine sump. When to stiff of a spring is used, the valve never dumps the oil, creating very high pressures. This is usually the case with full flowed engines that blow the filters.
FM Former Member
Pat,
To build on your comments, the oil "leak"- passageway back to the sump has been plugged. This is the passageway closest to the screw in the bottom-rear of the case. In this situation, there is nowhere else for the oil to go except for around the lube-circuit. Since the port is plugged, the valve would never open if in place, and cause the pressure buildup until something gave way (ie. the filter). The plugged port explains to me the lack of need for the valve. I'm just not sure where the pressure for the lifters comes from-presumably the valve in the front of the block??
-Tim
B billmac
It's starting to sound like you have a can of worms. The oil goes from the pump past the area where the regulator should be, through the oil filter and back through the engine to lube the rods, mains and lifters and wherever else it lands. The second regulator appears to regulate pressure through the dog house cooler and,maybe, accelerate warm up by bypassing the cooler when the oil is cold (thick). Hyd lifters take very little oil to fill. If you needed to add another qt., it's possible the filter and associated lines were empty and needed to oil to fill them.

You need to get that plug out of there and install the factory regulator.
HTH...Bill
FM Former Member
You can plug the rear bypass like your engine has been done. The problem with doing that is that all the oil pressure control is handled by the front valve,"shallow one" The bypass cannot controll the amount of oil pressure when the engine is cold. You can run an external bypass. I use this on my own race engine. Most people will plug off both bypass valves in the case when using the externall bypass system. This is a very trick way of controlling oil pressure and is prefered by many top name engine builders. You can easily plug the other relief valve without taking the engine apart. To do all of this will run about a hundred and fifty to two hundred bucks. I can help you if your interested.
Post Content
Remove This Ad

Membership Required

We're sorry. You must be signed in to continue. Sign In or Register
×
Are you sure you want to remove from your Block List?
×
Loading...
×
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×

Access to this requires a premium membership.

Supporting Member

Please help keep us running!

Supporting members have donated about $4.00 a month ($49.00 US per year) paid annually.

  • Priority support
  • Removal of inter-page (between thread) advertisements.
  • Access to Build Manuals
  • Access to Knowledge Base
  • Access to Supporting Members events.
  • Access to Leveraged Group Buying from site Merchants.

AUTO RENEW: You membership will auto-renew after 12 months. If you prefer not to auto-renew, you can cancel your premium membership at any time and it will remain in effect until the end of the 12 months. To cancel, sign in at SpeedsterOwners.com and navigate to: (Your User Name)  > Premium Membership.

PLEASE NOTE: Your credit card will receive a charge from CROWDSTACK PAY, the payment processor, not SpeedsterOwners.com.

$49.00 per 12 Months (plus tax if applicable)
×