Okay, I'm stupid

Maybe just a cobalt bit then try to tap the hole enough to get a small screw on the hole. If you can get something to tap into the pin, maybe you can squirt some PB in there and gently try to ease out the dowels.  I have no idea how else you could do it. I dont know if an easy out would bite into the pin.

Maybe see if someone could tig weld a rod onto the end of the dowel dowel and then try to pull it once everything cools?

Good luck,

Ted

Thank you! I'll try that. Oye! Always the small stuff.

Jeezo man. Where are Gordon or ALB when we need them?

Crankshaft dowel pins are extremely hard, and if there's nothing to physically grab with a vice grip (or bench vice if the crank isn't installed in the case yet) I think you'd be best to take it to a machinist. There may be another way, but I have heard of guys messing up the end of the crank trying to do it themselves (sorry, don't know the details). Sorry, that's all I've got.

A machine shop could probably take it out by EDM machine boring....   There are other ways, but all run a fair risk of crank damage.....    EDM is not cheap, so be advised....

Thank you. Since the engine is sitting on the floor I'm going to take a very careful stab at it. The machinist sites have echoed what you all have said. I took one of the dowels this morning and tried it in the drill press just to see how hardened they are. A good bit went right in -must be Empi. I'm going to try to thread it and either extract it with a 10-32 or put a grease fitting in and go the hydraulic route. I may heat the crank a little then run a frozen 10-32 in hoping it may chill the pin a little. I'll either be elated or crying in my beer.  

 

Thanks for your advice!

Yeah, you can forget about drilling it out - that metal is almost tool-steel grade and simply won't be drilled.

 

Also, forget about tacking a welding rod to it and pulling it out, either - in the instant that the rod bonds to the pin the pin will bond to the hole it's in and it'll NEVER come out.

 

Have you tried using a small magnet the size of the dowel?  Yes, they are a close fit, but they're usually not pressed in, just gently slid in and then the flywheel is gently slid on over the pins.  It shouldn't be in there very tightly, so it may just slide right out.

 

I would take it to a decent machinist (there have to be a bunch around Boston - ask around at local auto parts stores or a few trusty mechanics) and see if they can get it out.  A carbide or diamond drill will do it but it'll take a while.  Expect somewhere between $35 and $50 bucks.

I know it sucks but I'd just take the motor down and reassemble if you can't get the dowel out with a magnet. And I'd set the end play while it's still a short-block and be done with it....

In the process of ordering the right pins today Pat Downs and Aircooled said to leave it. Put the other 7 in and torque to 450 with red loctite.

 

Thanks to all for your help! I'm still going to try to get it out with a magnet first.

powerful magnet?

No such luck. Sucker is in there. Pretty tight fit.

 

For the database here in case anyone ever makes the same mistake I did, Scat, Pat Downs, and Aircooled all said to run with the 7 and torque to 450. Naturally I want it to be correct and that short pin will still bug me because it's not right. But the dman thing is right next to the car waiting to go in.

 

But my mistake taught me all about pins. I almost shot myself in the foot twice because I ordered long pins yesterday thinking I was all set. When Scat just called they said their cranks are bored for .900 depth -the "long" ones I bought were .750. Cancelled the other other order and bought from Scat (which is cheaper anyway).

 

Jesus! No wonder I drink.