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I have succumbed to the Type 4 pressure. I just received a type 4, stock engine from a 2.0 liter 914. I will pull the heads and get the valve guides redone and some mild head work. Then when I get the kids out of college maybe I can go all out and get a RABY built Type 4. You know, one with some mild "upgrades", maybe 185 hp?? ;)

One question, what type of clearence will I expect with the type 4? When I eyeball it..it looks very close. I may have to go "outlaw" and make a scoop on the engine lid. TC, any ideas?

Anyone need a rotary engine and a VW adapter?


Michael
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I have succumbed to the Type 4 pressure. I just received a type 4, stock engine from a 2.0 liter 914. I will pull the heads and get the valve guides redone and some mild head work. Then when I get the kids out of college maybe I can go all out and get a RABY built Type 4. You know, one with some mild "upgrades", maybe 185 hp?? ;)

One question, what type of clearence will I expect with the type 4? When I eyeball it..it looks very close. I may have to go "outlaw" and make a scoop on the engine lid. TC, any ideas?

Anyone need a rotary engine and a VW adapter?


Michael

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Where abouts are you concerned with clearance? The install of my 2615 a couple years back now was textbook. The engine fits top to bottom and side to side just like my old Type1.

I do have one teeny-tiny wear or rub underneath the decklid. A little spot on the right side where the aircleaner nicks the cut-away I didn't cut-away when I opened up my decklid for more airflo; not catastrophic by anyone's measure.

My engine came with new tin surrounds to replace the Type1 stuff. No problems there. The exhaust has been through a few modifications over the years, mostly for beefier sound, then once to fix an "oops, where'd my low end torque go?" and no more clearance problems there than what I read about in the forums; culverts and speed bumps are not our friends no matter what's hannging off the back end!

I think you'll enjoy the difference right outta the box, so to speak, with a stock Type4. I remain convinced the 2270 Type4 is the best balance of beef and brawn for these little cars.
My concern is the clearance underneath the car, cause the engine is 29 iches tall with the DTM...so I am curious if I will have to make a "bulge" on my hood to allow it to close. Not worried about the side to side or depth..as I have plenty of space. I am not sure if the 359 Vs 356 dimensions are different....
Hate to say it, but you might have a clearance problem.

VS cars are a little deeper in the engine compartment than CMCs...or at least mine. The radius of the hood is flatter than a CMC. A VS hood looks kinda like the flying nun on it. Ask me and Paul how I know, got a VS hood from him a while back. Engine compartment depth is probably dependend on where the body got glued onto the chassis. The rear body contour is definately different though.

You may be OK but don't slam the hood right off.

Michael,

I have a UK Chesil and had to cut away some of the inside skin of my engine lid and clearance one of the hinges in order for the lid to close. It fouled the top of the oil cooler and the oil cooler hose outlet.

The mechanical structure of the Chesil engine lid must be different to USA designed cars as I understand there isn't usually this problem.

Still plenty of space to the outer skin of course...

Simon

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Some Speedsters vary with DTM fitment. It seems that since the cars are not built all exactly the same that even 2 cars from the same Mfr may be slightly different in the engine bay..

A good example is paul's car.. His engine fit perfectly with no trimming, while a recent Vintage convert had to trim under his decklid.. Another example was Simon's engine... He had to do a bit of trimming, but no one else that has converted a Chesil needed to, to my knowledge.

All my cooling systems are the same, built with the same jigs and assembled on top of the same fitting engine so they are all exact standardized replicas, so we know its not shroud variances that create the issues.

The shroud in the pic appears to be one of Joe Locicero's original DTM systems. These shrouds were not standardized and Joe built each one at a time as well as machining the castings for each, so all of them are different- this can cause some fitting issues.

The 2270 TIV is the best TIV engine that can be built, hands down for a daily driver/spirited performer. It is by far my most researched, most revised engine to date. The 2270 in it's various forms account for 85% of the engines that have my name on them.
Michael,

After everything is installed and running, once you know exactly where the extra clearance is needed, please post a pic and explain further.

I found something really amazing and have fitted it to my "new" SC coupe and it's SWEET. Not for everyone for sure, but PERFECT for something like your building.

I'd just rather not spill it here until I have it finished up on my own car, OR until you're ready to start altering your own car.

It's different, but still looks like the factory might have done it for a Rallye, LeMans, or Carrerra attempt.

Luck!

TC
TC,
I will be really interested in anything you have to offer as I like alot of your ideas...I will not be doing much with the engine until February so theres plenty of time, just tearing out the radiator and the rotary engine first.

Jake...
I have a rear engine support, do I need it for the stock 2.0 liter?
Its alot like the 911 one.


Michael
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