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Not cheep but I think these would look killer on my old flaired bodied Fiberfab. What I'm worried about is finding wide low profile tires, TIRERACK has nothing wider than 225/50-15. I haven't purchased the wheels yet I'm waiting to hear back on the offset. What I do know is they're 9 1/2 in. wide on the back and 8in. on the front and 4x130 bolt pattern.Has anyone seen these on a Speedster before ? I couldn't find any pics so did a crappy photoshop.

1957 FiberFab(Flared Speedster)

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Not cheep but I think these would look killer on my old flaired bodied Fiberfab. What I'm worried about is finding wide low profile tires, TIRERACK has nothing wider than 225/50-15. I haven't purchased the wheels yet I'm waiting to hear back on the offset. What I do know is they're 9 1/2 in. wide on the back and 8in. on the front and 4x130 bolt pattern.Has anyone seen these on a Speedster before ? I couldn't find any pics so did a crappy photoshop.
What Barry said for re-drilling and re-studding hubs. Wheel adapters are also available, but they add beam width, make the steering a little different and add stress to the bearings.

With 15 inchers, I would wonder about fitting a front disc brake caliper that severely limits the disc diameter size you could use. Bigger IS better! Same issue for any rear disc brake.

For clearance, suggest you take some plywood or heavy cardboard cutouts and bolt them them up flat to your existing hub. Then start taking measurements based on tire width and determine where you can put the CENTER of the tire-wheel combo. From there to your mounted cutout is your offset. Dont forget to look at full lock in both directions. Especially hardware clearance at front, inside of each wheel.

If your not endeared to your current fiberglass, you could always determine your new wheel center and simply scribe an arc on the existing fender (I did). Simply remove a bit of offending glass until you have no body rubs. Can't do that trick on the inside hardware when you're at full lock. That will probably be your limiting feature.

Finally you can be a bit consertive. When you're all done and you still want to move the tire/wheel combo outward - either for extra inside clearance or to move the rubber farther outboard, wheel spacers are readily available form several sources. You can buy them in l/4 inch increments. May be able to make your own.

Personally, I kinda like the look of a little rubber sticking out beyond the body line. Sorta like cleavage! Thans for the remind - I need to add a few spacers.

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Images (2)
  • Front tire to body fit
  • Rear tire to body fit
Thanks guys it would have been a costly mistake and I don't want the thing to look like a rollerskate. David I think you have the best idea of modifying the flairs which I don't like that much anyways so looks like that will be my plan. It's funny I was just looking at a couple ofpics of Speedsters with small flairs and I was trying to figure out if they grafted them on or cut them back. When I was looking for a speedster kit to buy I knew as a Canadian Ineeded to find a car on this side of the border, a 15yr old USA car or an unfinished kit which was my first choice. The standard non-flaired kit was my dream but I was not going to say no to the one I finally found. I always thought the old flaired cars look like the flairs are a little drooping compaired to the new big flaired cars.Cutting the flairs back is a perfect solution for me to be able to use my 16x7 Fuchs and 225/50-16 tires that I have without spacers. I'm very excited to get back at it in the garage, will post pics as I go thanks again guys !
I'm going from memory here (a very dangerous path), but to my recollection, those mild flares started to show up on SCCA racers in mid-60s. Dunlop, and probably others, started making slightly wider racing tires available, and the racers just started beating out the metal to clear the tires. Complete tire coverage was an SCCA requirement at the time. I've never seen a flare on any "street" speedster back in the day. Just my two pesos.
No adapers,,, BAD idea.. spacers maybe! if you need clearance on the inside for wider wheels. But adapters are a tire flight risk if you play hard..

But they now offer drums and rotors redriled. Or Real porsche drums and rotor are like modern 5 lug cars they can be got undrilled or drilled as you want. Longer studs and your safe with spacers .

Listen to David!! Knowing your clearance and backspacing on the rims is a must to selecting studs and spacers

One thing I do like 16 inch rims offer more caliper clearnnce. Another plus 8>)

I cant remeber where i saw them . (Im getting older!)

But they are out there..


I Just remembered ? Im thinking something like Wild or Wicked racing Maybe. Look in your hot VW Mag
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