Old yelers T-4

I have decided to sell the T-4 I had in my replica. If I need a bigger engine, later on. I'll do like George and have Pat build it.


So heres a good case with a bad cam and maybe bad heads. Steel DTM shroud,tin,and carbs. Up for sale. What's it worth?

Steel DTM??? What the heck is that?

Barry,
I am interested in buying the motor. Looking to build a motor for my CMC flared fender. Let me know how much you want for it. My e-mail is jander1965@cox.net .
Thanks,
Jim

Barry,
Tried to send you an e-mail about the engine, but it was sent back. If it is still available, please contact me or post here.
Thanks,
Jim

Barry,
Sounds good to me. Just let me know how much you want for it. Might even be able to pick it up instead of shipping.
Keep me posted.
Thanks,
Jim

Mr Anderson I will get back to you next week > the DTM shroud is the one I made from a new stock 36 shroud/no oil cooler provison. The spal fan, Teflon ss hoses and remote stock t-4 oil cooler go with it.

Also If you have any concerns about the shroud not being balanced from register 1&3 to register 2&4 Feel free to buy Jakes.

I Pulled the alt ,and I am keeping the oil filter kit. I threw out the exchangers and the muffler.

Yes Jake a All steel hand crafted shroud engine tins and exchangers cladded in stainless.


Jim.I will have to add your email address to my system before your mail can pass.

Barry - So its one you made with Joe Cali NEXTGEN instuction book? I thought that included modifying the dog house for the cooler? Guess external oil cooler would be even better though. I'm trying to learn what's needed to do a similiar conversion. Your car is listed as an automatic? That would mean Jim would also need to add a flywheel and clutch pieces plus a different oil pump. Looking at photos - you did great job on the conversion - really looks sharp. If Jim falls through let me know -- it could save me time on my conversion.

Any idea what cooked the engine? Heck my old Toyota PU used to run great til my daughter started driving - finally put the two together. Turns out it didn't like the clutch being dumped at 5500 rpms. Guess those black rubber stripes in road weren't put there in effort to resurface the road after all.

My Car has a T-3 Audi fully automatic, the trans fluid dipstick interfered with the oil cooler placement. so it had to move.

There is a kit to add the oil cooler to a early fan shroud but it would have been to close in my case.

A stock T-1 will just clear, but it's still closer than I would have liked it to be.

Jake thinks the exhaust was to restictive and losened up the valve seats.

It ran poorly from the word go. I think the cam wiped out in it

It dosent matter, both would have to be replaced to fix it.

Its the best way. The heads at the least should be rechecked at Headflowmasters, their Adrian Pellows's parts. Then take it from there on case and cam work.

I have a nearly complete 2 pack jetting kit, that is to go with it as well, 2 different main venturi incerts sets, enough to handle most of the possible jetting set ups

Barry,
Where are you located?

Bear Creek rural North Carolina.

Barry,
DTM means "DOWN THE MIDDLE" and means that the shroud goes "DOWN THE MIDDLE" of the banks of opposing cylinders, taking into account their factory offset..

Your shroud arangement shoulkd be referred to as a "Cali conversion" its still upright, but not a DTM..

Jake this shroud had been cut and twisted in the middle to offset the 2 sides more. The veins on the 3&4 side had to be remade. The outlets that inter the cylinder tin on 3&4 have also been extended. The 1&3 side is stock So that side could be considered Not to DTM spec's.

I can see how it can be misleading ,you have to look real close to see the twist. It turned out neater than I thought it could . It most likey , Is not as good as your DTM ,BUT it must be at least, better than Stock

Now that I have it off I will take a picture of the outlets

Are you going to name a price you are asking for it or put it on ebay? IMHO This forum should not be used for bidding. Hard to tell what its worth since you haven't offered any specs on what't in it *displacement, carbs, miles on block/lower end). We only know it needs $800- 1200 worth of parts to even run again. (heads ~$600, cam ~$150, exhaust ~$250, flywheel/clutch ~$100, oil cooler ~$150. TIV core engines are $50-250 --- with ok heads.

Wow, now I think I see why you had an issue with the cooling.... Thats really confusing looking.

I had no cooling problems AT ALL!!!!!!!

It worked just as good as a stock T-1 36 hp shroud would ever hope to.

My problem with this engine was that it would never idle.. Be it the Carbs setup was wrong out of the box, or the cam wipeing out Or a probem caused by the exhaust. One thing is certain Im not wasting any more time with it,


It is a Helgerson built Raby supplied componit engine. Built to Jakes, Massive 4 2056 spec's that can be viewed at Jake's site

Long block with 44 Idf webers remote T-4 oil cooler with Spal air sucker fan. as is $2500, Firm or Im may just Chop it up and mail the giblets to Jake.


Just so there is no mistake please note where the steel shroud fitted in .

IS or is Not that a DTM set up

That is much better than a Cali Conversion...

Now you know why it took so long.
The standard beetle fan belt works with the normal amount of shims behind the pulley.
It realy turned out pretty neat , If I had had room to put the oil cooler in a dog house on the back of the shroud. I suspect it would balanced the air from bank to bank, to within the factory spec's of a standard T-1 . It took forever for the remote oil cooler fan to come on but when it finally did, it cycled once about every 8 to 10 minutes.
I just can't see the cooling being a problem. I've seen fried bug engines. and this one never got anywhere close.