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On the road at last!

S shambly
Having finished building my car about a month ago, I was finally able to drive it legally on the roads on Saturday - A short 100 mile :) journey back home from Chesil's workshop (where it had been trailered to, for them to help with the re-registration process).

First impressions, fantastic :)

I've posted a picture taken just outside Chesil's workshop on the coast to the members area. Unfortunately it was an overcast day.

www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=shambly&f=chesil%5Fat%5Fchesil%2Ejpg

Still have some more setting up of the engine to do, plus a Hyfire CDi ignition system to add to my Mallory Unilite distributor and coil - trying to get the best out of my 'mundane' 1641cc engine (stock with C25 cam, kadrons, Chesil st/steel exhaust, vacuum advance). Oh, and a webasto heater to add over the winter too.

Planning to swap to a larger engine as the next project (hence investing in decent ignition from the off), to take advantage of the 3.44:1 R&P in my reinforced gearbox (again, forward planning).

The CSP front disc brakes, with the dual-cct servo assistance I added, seem up to the task, too.

The question is, my next engine. I want torque, reliability, and will drive the car with respect ; I don't want a 7000 rpm screamer. I plan to build in parallel to running my existing engine, and have rules out a Type 4 on cost.

For a moderate capacity increase (staying below 2000cc), do I want to be increasing barrel size or stroke to improve low down torque?
I presume that even staying at this capacity I can double the BHP of my existing stock engine with the correct choice of crank, heads, carbs, etc.... ?

1957 Chesil(Speedster)

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S shambly
Having finished building my car about a month ago, I was finally able to drive it legally on the roads on Saturday - A short 100 mile :) journey back home from Chesil's workshop (where it had been trailered to, for them to help with the re-registration process).

First impressions, fantastic :)

I've posted a picture taken just outside Chesil's workshop on the coast to the members area. Unfortunately it was an overcast day.

www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=shambly&f=chesil%5Fat%5Fchesil%2Ejpg

Still have some more setting up of the engine to do, plus a Hyfire CDi ignition system to add to my Mallory Unilite distributor and coil - trying to get the best out of my 'mundane' 1641cc engine (stock with C25 cam, kadrons, Chesil st/steel exhaust, vacuum advance). Oh, and a webasto heater to add over the winter too.

Planning to swap to a larger engine as the next project (hence investing in decent ignition from the off), to take advantage of the 3.44:1 R&P in my reinforced gearbox (again, forward planning).

The CSP front disc brakes, with the dual-cct servo assistance I added, seem up to the task, too.

The question is, my next engine. I want torque, reliability, and will drive the car with respect ; I don't want a 7000 rpm screamer. I plan to build in parallel to running my existing engine, and have rules out a Type 4 on cost.

For a moderate capacity increase (staying below 2000cc), do I want to be increasing barrel size or stroke to improve low down torque?
I presume that even staying at this capacity I can double the BHP of my existing stock engine with the correct choice of crank, heads, carbs, etc.... ?
FM Former Member
Simon, a 1,915cc with a 69mm forged counterbalanced crank, VW rods with upgraded rod bolts, and 94 mm pistons and cylinders will work just fine. Using 8.5 to 1 compression, an Engle 110 cam 9or equivalent) with 1.25 to 1 rocker arms, light flywheel, KP stage 1 clutch, 044 heads with 42 in/37.5 ex valves, single performance valve springs with titanium spring retainers, dual Weber 44 IDF's, 1 5/8" merged exhaust, and a Bosch 009 distributor with Pertronix should make a very torquey, reliable street engine.
FM Former Member
If you're building a cost-concious motor, I'd recommend an upgrade of p/c size to 90.5 that'll increase your engine capacity to 1776cc whilew retaining the 69mm crank. It'll require tearing down the motor & splitting the case for machining. While it's apart, also go with a full flow oiling system and change out the crank to a counter-weighted model such as one from DMS, Gene Berg or Scat. Also upgrade to a slightly wilder cam like an Engle 120 or 125
When it's time for re-assembly, you might want to opt for bigger & better heads such as those made by CB Performance or SuperFlow with a minimum of 40x35 valves. If cost allows, opt for a match port & polish as well as a 3-angle valve job.
Finally, again depending on budget, purchase a quality intake system such as dual Weber 44IDFs or the big boy 48IDAs. Yes, IDAs are streetable, as I've been using them on a VW Beetle for a few years now. With this combo, you should see anywqhere between 120-135hp with a modest 7:1 compression ratio. Of course, bump that compression to 8.5:1, and you might see 145+hp on a dyno
FM Former Member
Glenn, a 1,776 with 7 to 1 compression probably isn't even going to make 100 BHP, and 145 BHP is a pipe dream with those cams and 8.5 to 1. You would probbly have to build a 1,776 with a cam (FK89?) that will make power to 8,000 RPM to get up to 145 BHP.
(Message Edited 10/2/2003 10:20:37 AM)
FM Former Member
Hey George, I'd have to disagree on the notion a modest 1776 can't produce 100hp. This is the current specs for my 1776 in my 63 VW Bus:
90.5 mahle forged pistons, Rimco super rods, Engle K-8 cam, Magnum 044 heads with 44x37.5 valves, 48IDAs It is very streetable as I deliver mail in my Bus 6 days a week.
When I installed it in a friends '62 Beetle a few months ago for the VW Trends Dyno Day, it produced (uncorrected) 122hp on a DynoJet Dynometer. The motor built by JD Performance here in San Diego. with instructions to hemi-cut the heads for longevity. They told me no problem and the compression ratio will be a modest 7.5:1 I've never used anything more than 87 octane fuel available at the regular Arco gas stations and have had no problems.
Though not an absolute street screamer, as it was never meant to be, it provides the needed uuumph when I mash the pedal.
S shambly
George, and others,

Thanks for your feedback

So I shouldn't have any qualms about going over 90.5 barrels for a engine that I want to last, say, 40K miles?

Or would 76 x 90.5 have a longer life expectancy than 69 x 94 for a similar capacity (but more involved build)?

Alot of (european) sources of information I have found say stay at 90.5 and below for a street motor.
FM Former Member
I'll stick with with my estimate of less than 100 BHP since you said small valves (40 in/35 ex), 7 to 1 compression, and a 110 or 120 cam in your post. Your engine's K8 cam is a step up, and so is your 1/2 point of compressinon, but dyno numbers are always estimates and different dynos give different numbers.

Best use for a dyno is what Jake does - uses it for comparing changes to a particular engine.
FM Former Member
George, I believe what Jake's inhouse dyno does best is enable him to break-in engines for his customers. When you receive his engines it is ready to rock from the moment you turn the switch.

Simon, go to Shoptalkforums.com, look for their "search" function and see what has been written about 1776 and 1915. Lots of opinions and some people even know what they are talking about. I like the 1915 best for a good budget engine combo personally. The power is in the heads and their ability to flow vs big valves. Locate a good port and polish guy and your engine will be an over-achiever.

Simon2, how much did you pay for your wire headlight guards? I read you bought them off ebay in Europe (?). A seller sells them here but he buys them from a supplier in Italy. Didn't know if they are cheaper there than here. (Normally they sell in the $200US range on ebay US.)
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