With a melted air cleaner. Passenger carb was extremely hot. Rubber around air cleaner melted. Any ideas?
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
With a melted air cleaner. Passenger carb was extremely hot. Rubber around air cleaner melted. Any ideas?
Backfire through the carb?
Was it running rough?
For the carburetor to get that hot I would assume you probably backfired and should consider yourself very lucky that the rear end didn't go up in flames.
I sucked an intake valve seat which caused unused fuel to pass up through the throat. I wonder if you did the same or, perhaps, sucked an exhaust valve?
Was it running rough?
For the carburetor to get that hot I would assume you probably backfired and should consider yourself very lucky that the rear end didn't go up in flames.
I sucked an intake valve seat which caused unused fuel to pass up through the throat. I wonder if you did the same or, perhaps, sucked an exhaust valve?
I'm guessing it got hot, HUH? As mentioned, it could have backfired and caught fire... and,,, somehow it self extinguished???????????
another think to check:
Check and make sure that nothing is stuck in the fan shroud air intake
(between the fan shroud and the fire wall)
another think to check:
Check and make sure that nothing is stuck in the fan shroud air intake
(between the fan shroud and the fire wall)
If it did backfire through the carb it... wil happen again until you find the source, be careful. ~Alan
Thanks to everyones quick response. The car has been backfiring. I imagine that's what happened. I sat and waited for it to cool, started with fire extinguisher in hand and waited. Reved the engine and waited. Took it very easy on the way home. All cylinders hitting. Lots of popping. I'll go through and do a tune up tomorrow. That'll get your heart pounding! Thanks again.
Luck was with you man. Glad you made it home. What carbs do you run?
Popping: points, condensor, cap, rotor, timing, lean mixture etc.
Don't forget the dreaded intake manifold leak, make sure they're tight. Try rocking the carbs left to right, my two cents.
Incentive to carry a fire extinguisher too - just in case. First aid kit and flares/safety reflector good too. Required in Europe.
And the bane of all folks with Weber carbs - clogged jets due to crap in the gas tank. If you haven't driven it a lot, you might be suffering from the dreaded fuel tank internal coating dissolution issue.
Tight intake valves are the biggest contributor to this issue, along with the crappy new USA made weber carbs just plan sucking!
A tight intake valve allows partial combustion to travel up the intake tract and that usually ignites a partially fuel saturated air filter... That turns into a molotov cocktail.
You got lucky... Very lucky.
Check this engine top to bottom and disassemble the carburetors and inspect them. If this happened once, it could happen again. Next time you might not be as lucky.
A tight intake valve allows partial combustion to travel up the intake tract and that usually ignites a partially fuel saturated air filter... That turns into a molotov cocktail.
You got lucky... Very lucky.
Check this engine top to bottom and disassemble the carburetors and inspect them. If this happened once, it could happen again. Next time you might not be as lucky.
Im running Dellorto DRLA 40's. Going to head to the store this evening and purchase timing light. I am hoping checking the timing will either point to that as being the culprit or eliminate it from the equation.
Just wondering, can timing be set with a test light if you have a distributor sans points? Ill check the valve adjustment after that, thanks Jake. I am not a lucky person. I Need to be much more careful.
I did just have the engine out of the car to replace all motor mounts. Manifolds should be tight, Ill double check. Could the dizzy have been knocked around enough to change the timing?
Worth noting, I purchased a fire extinguisher when I picked this car up last August in California. Grabbed it when I saw smoke, later finding out the needle was halfway through the red empty mark. Check your extinguishers folks!
Just wondering, can timing be set with a test light if you have a distributor sans points? Ill check the valve adjustment after that, thanks Jake. I am not a lucky person. I Need to be much more careful.
I did just have the engine out of the car to replace all motor mounts. Manifolds should be tight, Ill double check. Could the dizzy have been knocked around enough to change the timing?
Worth noting, I purchased a fire extinguisher when I picked this car up last August in California. Grabbed it when I saw smoke, later finding out the needle was halfway through the red empty mark. Check your extinguishers folks!
Paul, More than likely you have an 009 distributor. If so, the best way to time your engine is at 3,500 RPM's. It should be set at 28 degree's before Top Dead Center with the engine turning at 3,500 RPM's.
If you exceed that setting, you'll have more power but you run the risk of detonation. If you set it less, you're losing power.
I've found that with today's crappy fuel, this setting proves to be the best all around timing mark for your engine.
Forget about timing at idle, and for this, you'll need a timing light.
If you exceed that setting, you'll have more power but you run the risk of detonation. If you set it less, you're losing power.
I've found that with today's crappy fuel, this setting proves to be the best all around timing mark for your engine.
Forget about timing at idle, and for this, you'll need a timing light.
You should also check or adjust your valves before doing anything else. opps. You mentioned that.
Here is what I found. Tight intake and loose exhaust valve on the #1 cylinder. The carbs were badly out of tune as well. On Saturday morning I took the speedster for a test drive. 400 miles later I was pulling back into my garage in Baltimore. There is nothing like driving this car when it is dialed in. Wow.