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Doug, I paid $16K for a good driver, and the only real CMC-specific things to watch for are the condition of the chassis and the electrical system. Mine was a 6v system, converted to a 12v without removing the 6v harness. There were two wiring harnesses in the car and no roadmap.
Like the other folks have said, the builder and finish quality will vary. The fiberglass is really thick, too, and easy to work with. The mold was a good one for my car, laid up in the eighties.
Everything else is just about the same as a Bug.
Stay away from red though, if you're not a waxing kind of guy. You'll need every bit of 12 coats a year to keep it from fading.

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  • Hoopty in June 2001
  • progress as of 051206
Lambros has certainly got it right. Love the steel wheel look.
You can fix the "sagging rear end" thingie with about three miles of three-quarter-inch box tubing. Ask me how. ...
And I want Ricardo's engine. Have I mentioned that?

All in all, not a bad deal we've got going here, huh? Wickedly cool sports cars for less than $15K to get into the game? Spend what you want after that; go nuts or just drive. Gotta love it.
Hey Cory, my powerplant is just a garden variety 1915 built by VS; I'm just upgrading it without splitting the case (there's less than 4,000 miles on it). Had I known I would've requested a counterweighted crank with a mild cam and full flow oil filtering but then again, for the amount of driving I do in it I guess it's alright. I can't wait until I install all the goodies that I have stashed for it (waiting for the 6,000 mile service to do it all at once).
In my opinion and having built one, CMCs are as good as any other, the details make the difference. Many parts included with the kit are crap and are just to have a "complete" car, but if taken a lil bit farther with addition vintage parts and detailing, it amounts to a great ride ;-). Mostly CMC is a good platform at fair prices to make better at your own pace and liking, good luck...
~jJ~
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