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finally got around to modifying mine.

 

i got in touch with vintage speed and asked how they would recommend modifying it.  they said just bend it.

 

carefully wrapped in cotton and tried to bend (combination of vice holding it secure and pipe bender.  shaft material looks exactly the same as the stock one.  it shattered again.  it's clearly solid steel, but jsut really poor quality steel (although plenty good for a shifter.)

 

anyway - worked out very well. i just cut it off with a saw where i wanted it, chamfered the end after wrapping it in tape to protect the paint

 

cut off the threads on the shift nob side and chamfered those threads too.

 

adjusted my welder setting to be as 'tig-like' as possible (high power, low feed)

 

welded it on - while keeping it cool (to not wreck the paint)

 

filed the spot welds down and bobs-your-uncle.  done.

 

while i was in there, i took it apart and loosened it up a bit and lubed it up with grease. (shifter movelment and reverse trigger)

 

very happy with it now.

 

(BTW anyone who installs a kafer bar will need to adjust the shifter back ~5mm.)

Originally Posted by MangoSmoothie.ca:
Because the trans tie in mounts go between the trans hurdle (that has the engine mounts) and the frame horns.  Essentially, the thickness of the lower mount.

let me try to clarify this on a non-smartphone with auto correct.

 

the kafer mount is inbetween the frame horn and the rear trans gurdle.  this pushes the trans gurdle back the thickness of the kafer mount.  it was enough for me to not be able to get my trans into a solid 1st.  i could feel the gears, but it was not enough.

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