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Nice Pool of oil this morning under my car after actually getting to drive it.  Yesterday i had sort of crawled underneath and noticed some oil seepage on a connection of one of the oil cooler lines.  So i assume this is where i will find the leaks. 

Is there any special trick to those or just get underneath and give em a turn?

Thanks

Todd

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My Speedster doesn't leak - pi$$ed the wife off when it used to. It literally took me years to make sure that there are no leaks but after building my own engines, I've learned what needs addressed most and make sure that I take care of them during assembly. Those little leaks get onto your exhaust and start making crappy smells to boot so get them addressed. VW engines don't have to leak! Make sure you use a back-up wrench when tightening your connections.

 

 

That's just regular thread sealer. Just because they bundle it with their hose assembly lube does not mean you use it on AN fittings.

 

Here's a similar product bundle ("for use on pipe threads", aka NPT):

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/671570/10002/-1

 

With the way AN hose ends are made, if you don't have a good seal on the conical seat, they will leak past the nut and tube even if the threads are still perfectly sealed. Hardline flare nuts are the same way. Plus, over time, thread sealant can eventually deform/squeeze out of the threads making the connection loose and causing a leak. So thread sealant on AN threads is either at best pointless or actively harmful to a leak free connection.

 

Same reason you don't use or need thread sealer on brake lines.

Last edited by justinh

Pipefitter here, 25 year member of local 353 FWIW (that and a buck will buy you a small coffee at McDonald's).

 

An AN fitting is just a fancy flare joint. No sealant is used on flares unless it's a drop of lock-tite on the threads to keep 'em from backing out-- never anything on the face. A drop of oil on the back of the flares is the preferred method, even if some sort of thread-lock is used on the threads.

Well, I joined the local 170 of Teamsters International in 1970 (mostly to gather intel to write my undergrad thesis, but that's another story and we're STILL waiting for Jimmie Hoffa to return) but I also learned to NEVER use a sealant on AN or flared fittings.  

 

So now you have TWO MacDonald's coffee endorsements on the subject.....

 

Gordon

The unionized Speedstah Guy from Massachusetts

for me I like some sealer, weather it be teflon tape or liquid sealer , just mainly for anti gauld propertys it has. have you ever tried to get a gaulded fitting appart???? most of the time you dont, and some of the "new import,cheep ass offshore fittings" are softer,not a very good anodizing job&have the swivel retention pins not quite right witch some times gauld the pins to the fitting resulting in a non swivel or un instalable fitting once instaled on the line.aeroquip,earls&russell are good stuff,Im not imperssed with the no name and not imperssed with the "goodritch"fittings, I dont have a clue as to where there made.I also have some earls or russell fittings that are almost pure junk due to the coating/ electroplating they used for them to try to make the aluminum fittings look like stainless steel fittings and withstand nitro&alcoholl, the caoting comes off in needells!!!! just think of what that would do to your bearings!!!Ther have stoped production of those"endura" fittings or atleast that type of coating, but I had bought over $500 worth of them befor they knew there was a problem with them for my race car.  guess where there at now??? yup a lot of them made it to my bug after a lot of reworking&getting the coating out of the fittings&mostly all off the threaded portions, the company would not even reply to any emails, what a deal.those little needels were in my fingers for a few months giving me fits,I wished I had thrown them all away,(not smart enough to of been wearing good gloves to keep my fingers safe)and why are they on my bug??it's just a lawnmower powered car...or is it a lawn mower but I cant find the blade??

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