over riders

are the bumper over riders available? and are the difficult to install? they would be for a 84 IM

Jane, I did not have Henry install the overiders in my original purchase. I coveted them but I spent that money on some other items. A couple of years later, my wife after seeing some on Adam's car (now in England), Shin's car in So-Cal and the Roadster I posted for sale, said that they would be my 2003 Christmas present. she called Henry and he shipped them down.

It was not an easy task getting them on the bumpers. Bumpers need to be removed, original overiders removed and new, higher overiders with a notch for the bar installed and then the overider tube needs to have the ends shaped. It doesn't sound to tuff but the front was a real bugger.

I did the rears myself, and ended sending my front bumper/overider parts back to Henry for his installation. I think they really add to the car.

Good luck to you, and yes, they should fit on an 84 IM's bumper.

dale

thanks Dale, it does sound trickey maybe thats why you don't see too many, I don't know. Are they available aftermarket?, or is Henry the best or only source. I am thinking ahead because next week I fly to Seattle to see the 84 Im I want to buy and I'm trying to calculate all that I want to do to it as to see if the end result justifies the purchase. Also would you know if an A/C unit is posible, so far I would assume it is, simply because there seems plenty of room to accomodate it. thanks for your help,Jane

Jane, A/C is offered as an option on IM's, so it definitely is possible. Now the bad news, it will probably be a pretty big job dropping A/C into an existing IM that did not come with it.

do you think someone with normal A/C exp would be able to figure it out? tough question I know

Jane, my opinion is anyone with good mechanical skills can do it but it will be very time consuming.

Another reason to stop and talk to Henry. Leave your bumpers and have him fit them up with the overiders/tubes. shipping that large of box gets pricey however.

IM mounts the a/c condensor up front behind the body. Henry drills severa large holes in the body below the bumper to get cooling air. Ido not know how he runs the coolant lines but you may have to run them beneath the car, under the doors as Porshe ran the oil cooler lines in the 911's.

Again, don't forget that umbrella.

thanks Bill, good to know because I do have a really skilled mechanic, not at all with this particular car I want, theres not even one around where I live but in gerneral he is good, he thinks, unlike some mechanics I've had in the past, he sees the big picture and will try to solve a problem rather than sometimes just knowhow to relpace a part or something. And also good because speedster Johnny has a compressor, condensor, and lines form his 02 VS that he would sell to me.

Dale, actully thats a great idea regarding shipping the bumpers, and also I wouldn't be tempted to try to fabricate them locally due to the pricey shipping because I've been there before, in an effort to save money I might try someone elses attempt, but in this case I think it needs an expertise that on ly comes from exp with them in particular. I thought of something else I always wanted on my CMC but never attempted to get that might also need some fabrication as well is a badge bar, I know the rear grill is used for this but I think it would be neat to see badges displayed from the bumper, somehow above the over rider, I used to be into vintage beetles and I had a bar attached to the bumper over rider and it looked great. What do you think??

Jane, another good reason to visit Henry might be to get some pictures of his A/C install. If he has one in process and you bring a camera, you could probably get Henry to shoot pics your mechanic could use as a guide to the install. It could save a fair amount of calls back to Vancouver.

Also, these cars are so simple, any good general mechanic can repair them. If your guy has not worked on VW's before, you might consider buying him a copy of John Muir's book, "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive", it will answer just about every VW specific question he might have, all the other stuff, he will be able to figure out by just looking.

Shipping can be a bear, but with the accessory you are looking at, shipping will be a drop in the bucket. Were it me, I'd leave the bumpers at IM, get them done right and then have them shipped to you on a Greyhound bus.

Some of my outlandish-sized eBay sales/ purchases (most notably 911 sport seats and recently some more wheels) were best handled by Greyhound. Really.

Bill, the simplicity of them mechanically has long been an attractive feature to be about them, but when it comes to fabrication these bumper over riders, he must use finesse when handling them, and that he has not. And this can't be fudged, it's clearly seen. I don't doubt his abilty to repair and maintain it, I've had dozens of air cooled before but something like the over riders, which I'm sure aren't cheap, I don't want him practicing at my expense.

you're probably right, and then they would definately be right. I heard about grey hound, just never looked into it.thanks

Paul, is getting stuff like the bumpers a definate to buy at IM, or should I look into comparing with aftermarket too?

Jane, for fear my original advice/opinion may have been lost in the trivia of how hard a particular task might be, here it is again: I don't think buying a Fixer-Upper is a winning proposition.

Sorry if I sound like a broken record, just trying to save you a few bucks and a lot of heartache.

I don't have to agree with Bill here, but I do. Every person has different needs,different skills and different amount of time to spend on restoration.

I have a lot of friends with restored 356's and most of them have told me "buy one that has been restored. You will save some money, some aggravation and you will be time ahead."

Especially, if your looking at adding A/C and Overriders, you would be happier just buying a new IM.

You're getting a lot of feedback here... You're looking at a twenty year old replica. Even a new replica will likely present some variations when it comes to 'after-market' products. Most after market products are made for real P-cars and despite a replica's similarity, there are more likely to be more differences. These differences add to the challenge of fit and finish.

I have never looked for after-market over riders. I am sure they are sold by numerous P-car restoration companies and are very nice. The thing that governs my spending dollars is probably very different than the next guy, but one thing many of us share is the enjoyment of a classic car without the vulnerability of an original and the high cost or scarcity of its parts.

Replicar, replicar parts, replica manufacturer for their install.
Depending on the condition of this northwestern find, even with the installation and shipping of the bumpers & over riders, I think you will be money ahead in owning a personalized speedster.

Were it me, I'd buy the car if it is all you hope and live with it a driver's season. If the love affair is still on, then start looking at personalizing it further and weighing the costs at that time.

As for A/C, I'm just not a fan (no pun intended). It flies in the face of why I bought such a bone simple car.

I guess I don't really consider a cosmetic restoration a "fixxer upper", to me I would want to alter almost anything I would get, and this way I won't have to change and therefore pay twice for someone elses work. And know that that the up front cost for this one with shipping across the country is right around $11.5. Still several thousand tp work with and the end result still several thousands below other used ones. Also one thing you should know is that being in the car business I have many really good resources for paint and upholstry work, or I wouldn't even consider the task. Also working for myself I can pay for the work I want at my pace, when I make it, another factor that works for me. I can spread it out over 8 months or so rather than coming up with all the cash at one time, hard for me in my business. I know the A/c is getting into some pretty serious work not at all cosmetic but really that is the onlt thing that can't be done by the two best and most reasonable people I know, the bodyshop I work with and the upholsterer.

OK, you guys, I was just thinking of a question: If someone who wanted a Mercedes 190sl, and happened to ask me if they should buy one restored or needing work, oh my God, I wouldn't even let them entertain the idea of buying a restoration project, the thought of it pains me. BUT, in my case, knowing that ALL the parts nesseccary which there aren't many needed anyway, are available, unlike 190sl's (only a fraction of parts are reproduced), makes it a totally different story. Especially knowing that its only cosmetically lacking anyway. Doesn't that make a clearer case , seriouly let me know, maybe I should consider a new one, turn ket that is

with the price of the car itself and shipping, it comes to $11.5, with approx. $7k in paint, upholstry, carpet, different gauges, steering wheel, and other misc I think to have the final price at probably under $19 seems like a better buy thab trying to buy one for $19k, sound reasonable or am I miscalculating somewhere?

Jane there is more than money involved. I've done restoration frame off, built a street rod from scratch and everything in between. I do it because I love it, I trust no one and want it to be right. I've seen 98 point restorations that have trouble making it back to the trailer. Chinese after market bearings, new old stock fuel lines that won't hold up to MTFB etc. AC is certainly possible but as we have discussed I'm working on heat and defrost and I'm almost positive I've got it knocked. Next the heated seats and the fifty amp alternator. Good luck

Just to let you know, overrider tubes are really only available through Henry at Intermeccanica for this particular car. Don't even think about having someone try to build them from scratch. They are a little more complicated, to get right, then you might think. There isn't anyone else making reproductions at this time, because of all the inherit problems of selling them to people who don't realize the work involved in fitting them.

I know and understand your plan, I did a similar project a year ago with a 93 IM. If your sure, absoulutely sure the mechanical aspects of the car are in good shape then the rest will probably be a manageable project. But, just for a moment lets say you do all the cosmetics and then find out the engine is needing replaced, you would now be about 7k from a new one and it would not be as nice as a new one. I'm just saying make sure you know exactly what is and isn't going to need done on this car. Heck if cash flow is the main issue, someone can get you a lease on a new one, and it would take about 6-8 months before the car would be ready and you would owe for the car anyway????

Mike - If you are going with electric heat/defrost (?) why not go with a 75 Amp alternator? - 50 is less than most modern cars have (Toyota is 60+).

As to new or used (and then refurbish) - nice thing about doing the work under your supervision is you can control the parts that are used and see the individual bills for say machine work. This lets you meet you budget or performance needs. From some of past posts here, the newly built ones often have paint flaws, short engine life or leaky (water) interiors. Appears many with newly built don't even get a build list for the engine (what's in it and what are specs say for displacement, compression, cam)! One owner thought he got a 1776cc engine when indeed it was 1915cc.

steve, I really think a trip to IM is in order for me, you really make a good case, I think I need to go back to scratch as far as in my thinking to re evaluate. And bear in mind, I'm in PA(lancaster), not the ideal climate for one so there aren't any around. And I've literally never driven or even seen any IM's that other than in pictures. I've only had a CMC speedster a few years ago. I really need to drive a new one is the bottom line, or how will I ever really know if it's worth the extra $'s to me, this one in Seattel is a pan based, and stripped, meaning nothing extra except for a blower motor, anyway, thanks for the perspective

Jane,

It would certainly be a nice to go up to Henry's and check out his build facilities in person.
If you are not over anxious, there also is "Speedsters/Spyders at Carlisle" this coming May.
Henry is a genuine good guy and always there with at least one IM to drive. In past years there has been a good number of IM's on hand within our group at the show field.
This also affords you the opportunity to ask IM owners questions and get detailed opinions in person.
On the flip side to this, I am in the neighborhood to you in Chambersburg, Pa. and currently doing a Street Beasts speedster build for someone and with some 15 various speedster builds to date, I can show you the in's and out's as to what to look for.

Alan

hey Alan, I too think it would be to my advatage to take more time and definately go to Carlisle, I never miss it. I would like to come see wgat your working on now and that would be appreciated if you could give some pointers on what to look for, like I said I had a CMC for 5 years, and there are some things I learned from having that one that I don't want again, but if you would let me know where you are and when might be a good time come over that would be great. If you'd rather e-mail here is the address jane7191@epix.net

let me just say this, man is this frustrating when there are NONE to look at, when I'm looking to buy a certain car, I go almost anywhere, literally I mean it because usually what I'm looking for is unfortunately hard to find so I can't pass up any even if it's not in the stage I want, if only to compare, and/or just see more of them, but with this I literally haven't seen any, none!!! Where are they, or don't people like to part with them, I don't know but I don't care where it would be, I was toying with the idea of a Chesil from Europe, but thought again at everything invovled

75 amp alternator??? where? who?? I talked to some alternator specialty guys around here and they said if you modify them for more amps you will pick them up at high rpm's but lose on the lower end. I would appreciate any insight anyone has on this, As far as heat going with a BN2 behind the rear seat above the trans so I can hook into the exisiting duct work and take advantage of the lost space it there. Will build a custom box out of steel and hang it throught the bulkhead outside the passenger compartment.

www.jstefano.com

IM official East Coast distributor in N.C.

75 Amps is not a modification - it is bought that way. CIP1 is a source --- they have 10% off til end of year with code RG5 plus Free shipping. Guess 55 Amp is better than stock 30 Amp Generator but add H4 headlights, Foglights, CD player with amplifier --- you are quickly taxing the system.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D5748

Not any more.

I run a 55A Alt with Fogs, power Windows, Radio, Seat Heaters, H-4s, heat blower fan, two spd wiper, oil cooler fan, alarm, and map lights, plus the regular lights, engine, etc.. IM does it with relays and their own harness.

If you look at Street Rod or Restoration wiring harness set ups such as "Painless" you will find they start with a basic set up and then add options you may want, such as radio, power windows, yada. I used one of their harnesses on a 54 3100 1/2, with several options using an old alternator (converted from 6 to 12V) and have had no problems running amps, radio, power windows, power cowel vent, interior lighting, heater, ac, etc. It's just a matter of having the right size wires, good fuse block(s), relays, etc. Street Rods and older Retro set ups are not that much different than a Speedster R.

IF you are re-doing wiring on a VS. I highly recommend you pull out that less than ideal fuse block they used in 2001 (maybe it's been upgraded since then?). A few owners can testify to that VS issue. (I think Paul Harford mentioned it recently) I replaced mine with a good aftermarket Fuse Block after the VS system "fused together" and set off the car alarm 10 miles from home. I would go to one of the wiring harness manufacturers (there are many, but I had good luck with 'Painless'. Tell them where your battery is, the starter, grounds, what you will be running on the system, maybe draw a rough schematic with dimensions, etc, and let them send you a system that you can install yourself complete with the right guage of wiring for each application, relays, good fuse blocks, in line fuses, tags for all the lines, color coded, connections, etc.

Is this an Overrider thread?

LOL.