Overheating VS 1600 Dual Port - Help

Gene Berg has tech article on his web site - that gauges are only to fill holes in dash and that all are notoriously inaccurate (reason he doesn't sell gauges).  With engine off - feel around inside where fan is to ensure rag or paper towel is not stuck in there.  Yup - trans side of engine is left open.  Look at the CMC build manual (I provided link to a free PDF version of it in prior post).  They had builder put some rubber matting around there.  Guess mostly to keep water out but maybe heat at idle too.  Think VS also has round cut out in firewall for fan to get more air (can't see it in your pictures though) - CMC had a half moon cut out. You could cover above the heater control valves on either side as that dumps some hot air when open but I'd leave over the flywheel open.

 

Looks like you gas line was leaking at one time or its from changing filter - clever idea a cutoff on either side! 

 So where are your rubber seals that goes around the compartment ?  On long trips thats going to cause some heating.. Ya need something to the exhaust heat from the top side.

 

I would not be surprized if you have leaves in your fanblocking the air flow.

Yeah, I see some serious gaps all around there.

Maybe those aren't fuel cut offs with orange twisty knobs - but thumb hose connector?

Thanks all for your comments.  On the fuel filter, the orange things are the twisty knobs that the previous owner installed when replacing the tubing going from the filter to the carb.  He had no tools other than thumbs and forefingers. 

 

There is a U-shaped rubber seal (plus foam on top) covering the pully end of the engine and down the sides.

 

But nothing between the engine tin and the firewall along the transmission end of the engine.

 

Do Vintage Speedsters have a seal in this location and mine is gone ?  Or is this normal ?

 

By process of elimination I am hoping to rid elements that could cause the engine to heat up on the freeway.

 

Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks, Grant

Mine is just like yours, 2006 VS 1600 something . I have a seal in front of engine and along the sides, nothing along the back of the motor.

 

But the gap along the back of your motor, looks alot wider . Mine is 1 inch wide, my car runs cool,  in So-Cal tempertures.

You have to seal all of that up the best you can,and put that fuel filter on the OTHER side of the tin,under the car,by the transmission.

 You need to get a Manley oil temp dipstick or a IR temp gun to get actual temp and then you can visually synch the temp at the engine to the position on the gauge needle.

 Engine condition/tune/timing/air fuel ratio can all effect how "hot" it runs,even the oil,etc.

1. Get a candy thermometer and check its accuracy by putting it in boiling water. Should read 212 F

 

2. Make another 30-minute highway run.

 

3. Park car, remove dipstick. (Can you hold it bare-handed? If so, probably your temp gauge is just off)

 

4. Insert candy thermometer in oil dipstick hole; take reading. Are you under 225?

 

If not, you are overheating for sure.

 

If you're under 225 but over, say, 218, you'll probably still need to get the engine cooler. You may have a hot cylinder or two--or more. Pay attention to the tinsmithy advice above, but first check your carb setting again & make sure you're not leaning out at high RPMs. That will kill the engine pronto.

 

If your oil is under 218 you're probably (not definitely, but probably) fine. Chalk it up to a bad gauge.

 

http://www.vw-resource.com/overheating.html

Thanks all for the comments.  I've ordered the oil dipstick temperature guage and will take several temperature readings during different driving conditions this weekend.

 

I am going to speak with Kirk at VS to see if he sells any sealing member for the engine firewall area.  If not, I will likely do some tinsmithing and improvise with some seal material to cover the engine-to-firewall gap.

 

I suspect that I am running lean on the carb.  The plugs are buring very light tan.  I just rebuilt the carb (Bocar 34PICT-3) and noticed that the main jet was an x122.  From everything I've read about pairing this carb with the 09 distributor it is best to move to a X130 main jet.

 

Hence my next question.  Where can I find a main jet for a 34PICT-3 carb ?  Another question for Kirk?

 

All help is appreciated.

 

Thanks, Grant

Don't worry so much about around the firewall (in front of the motor); it's the area around the hot exhaust that you have to worry about. 

If you're really determined to close the the gap between the firewall tin and the firewall, the engine seal for a VW bus might do it. It's the same type of seal it sounds like you have going around the rest of the engine compartment.  They're pretty easy to put in. 

 

 

 

 

I made all the rear shelf  from tin  and ribbed it for strength the spoted on real VW pinch well stock and used Vw rubbers all around   I also use black urethane to seal up any gaps  with duct tape behind it so it dont run through the gaps..   In cool weather your ok.. as is..

 

 But in the summer  It would be bad  to run it that way on a 95 degree day

I've always thought that the main function of the rear firewall tin was to keep dust and crap from getting into the engine compartment.  I can't see how much hot air would get in.

Solex main jets, $4.75 plus shipping- ebay guy

 

I think aircooled.net has 'em too.

Agree 100%; you only need to worry about the rear side of the car in the compartment being sealed as that's where the hot air expelled from the motor ends up and you don't want it recirculated into your engine compartment; you only need fresh air. That is one thing that the Carrera type decklid will solve; it will definitely bring more fresh air into the compartment. My VS from 2004 is identical to yours, front tin and all but no seal and no hole on the firewall; in fact it's desirable to have gaps there as our single grill decklid doesn't deliver enough cool air. Reading Gene Berg's literature as per their recommendation I fabricated an aluminum scoop with a dryer hose and installed it underneath the car by the torsion bars on the passenger side, obviously facing the front of the car; I then punched a round hole in the front engine tin and connected the hose to it. There were some photos of the whole contraption that I posted many years ago but since the changes in the website I'm not sure if all those files were kept.

I'm planning on doing something similar now that my engine is out.  With IRS and rear torque bar I don't have a lot of room back there, but I'm sure I can fit something.

Impala:

 

Thanks for sharing your fix.  Its given me inspiration for a project the next few days off.  I'm planning on removing the engine firewall tin and fabricating a 2 inch or so lip to extend towards the firewall running from each side, but leaving a good foot or so exposed under the fan shroud intake opening (far away from the heat exchangers).  I will then attach a heavy nitrile rubber mat material that I've found to the tin to form a seal against the firewall.

 

I'll then fashion a scoop underneith the car using dryer or HVAC conduit to direct it to the area between the engine and firewall adjacent the fan intake.  I'll probably put a mesh screen over the scoop intake too (like Vintage has over its firewall opening).

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Grant

No sweat; sounds like a plan!! Good luck!!

Ron; you'll be able to fabricate something that works around the IRS suspension; you'll be fine.