Pan Based Clearance Issue

Morning y'all. So i'm starting a deep dive into my 1979 Intermeccanica built on a 1969 IRS pan. I am the second owner as the car was purchased from the original builder, however it sat for about 19 years before we got it and got it back up and running. I did a little light modifications, however I am really wanting to go further with a 5x205mm conversion. Upon lowering the car slightly in the back my 185/65/15s on 5 1/2 rims rub on the driver side, but do not rub on the passenger side. There appears to be about a half inch gap between the sides. Would this be something out of the norm? Body not mounted properly? If i were to go with a wide 5 disc brake conversion, from what I've read there is no change in width on the zero offset kits. Would I need to back down to a 175 on a 4 1/2 rim in the rear? I'm still learning so forgive all the questions. I've found multiple answers on biggest tire - per rim width so before ordering new 5 lug rims, and wheels i'd rather have a more set answer. My ultimate goal would be to remove body from chassis and redo everything, but trying to budget as time and money allows. Not going for a stock look by the way, more of a race inspired visual from the side on stance. Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

Jeff

9/26/238:54 AM

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WOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member

CMC/FF exhibit the same low clearances on the rear driver's side. This is because the same molds/tooling were bought from IM and used by CMC back in 1978. I have a very close driver's rear clearance with 185/65x15 on OEM Porsche 914 4 bolt 5.5" Fuchs - maybe a pinky worth. I did sand wheel opening and some of the inner wheel well to gain a bit more clearance.

Wheels come with different offset/backspacing. The 914 alloy rims are ET40 or 4.4" backspacing. I've been considering CIP1 5.5" fake Fuchs (5x130mm) which are 5" backspace or ET45. Seems that would give 1/2" more clearance.

Alternatively, you can have the trailing arms narrowed and use shorter axles - which cost around $800-1k.

I was very careful when mounting my body to a '71. I used the holes in the heavy steel subframe and it matched up to the fixed points in the VW pan. I couldn't get it any closer to equal clearance. So I doubt it is worth removing the body to try for a fix.

9/26/239:27 AM

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79Speedster

Thank you for the reply. That at least puts my mind to a little ease with the fitment of the body side to side. When I got the car it was at stock height with the old 185s that it sat on, I replaced with newer tires of the same size and lowered the car about an inch in the back estimated as I don't have cutouts on the body to allow for easy access to rear height adjustment. I also did a 2 and a half inch drop in the front so i'm guessing overall that had more of an effect on the rear tire fitment than I realized. I may go back to stock spindles on the front and just work with what I can get away with on the rear, even if that means raising it back up just a little. I like how the 185 fits the wheel well in the rear so i'd like to keep it at that if I can make it work with 15 inch steelies that i'm considering. I also shaved the inside lip a little on that driver side wheel well but it still is rubbing the letters off in turns. Thank you again for your input!

9/26/2310:41 AM

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WOLFGANG'89 CMC FWB, FL Supporting Member

You can use the front beam adjuster(s) to raise the front some vs going back to stock height spindles. Depends on adjuster's welded placement on how much you can raise it.

I thought of using 4.5" rims in rear but it seems so wrong to reverse stagger wheel width.