Does anyone have a picture of a VW pan when it is cut to shorten it before re-welding back together? I want to see what the cross section through the tunnel looks like. I'm almost convinced we could add (weld on) strengthening to the underside to allow access panels to be cut into the tunnel bottom.
Just something for me to chew on...
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I think you could safely use a 2-3" hole saw and cut maybe 3 access ports down side of tunnel (mid way up. Maybe one for the shift rod bushing on passengers side and others where the clutch cable is welded. I could see oil fogging the center tunnel too as it seems a place for rust to live.
Great pics thanks. I was thinking of access panels in the bottom of the tunnel so you didn't have to undo carpet. Cut maybe three openings, 6" x 9", weld on 3/8" thick band all around to tap for bolting on cover. Any thoughts?
How far behind the shift lever opening is the infamous bushing that can be replaced?
Just at the limit of your finger reach! This is older tunnel photo but new are same place.
thanks. Hope I'm in a good mood when/if I have to change it. I've read the past threads on this piece. No problems yet, just having a hard time getting into first.
So back to my original question - Why can't I cut a hand hole in the bottom of the tunnel right under this bushing and then apply a heavy cover plate?
A cover plate will not strengthen the area that was weekend by cutting a hole...
The strength you need is mainly in the vertical. But cutting the bottom will weaken it. Also, you'll probably hit the fuel line.
If I were going to do it I would cut smaller than 6 x 9. Maybe 5 x 6 at most. One under the shift rod bushing only. I like your idea of a thick "band" to tap into. Maybe do that and an 18 gauge piece of pipe standing an inch into the tunnel.
Lotta work though.
It's really not worth it for the shifter rod bushing. Lot's of U-Tube videos on doing it.
In the vertical direction it it the top and bottom that provide the strength. Think of an I beam. The vertical part is there mostly to hold the top and bottom apart.
In the early days, I would cut a 3 x 3 ... 3 sided flap hinged bottom, to get to the shifter bushing and just bend it back into place... since then I found that I can rest a long 3/8" ratchet extension against the hanger hole, let the new bushing slide down and pop it in with flat piece of wood.
Has anyone heard of a low profile intake manifold for a single 2bbl carb for a dual port engine?
Great segue Meade...
...pushed the wrong button, sorry.
I've done a Weber Progressive 2BBL in speedy the inner deck lid area needs to be cut out to allow for 5/8" clearance at the forward edge. 
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Great, thanks. What is the displacement of your engine, Alan?
That is a 1776 Syl Mathis is the current owner.
craig posted:Great segue Meade...
Why would you want to do that? I thought you bought new carbs and Leon got them synched up for you...
Alan Merklin posted:I've done a Weber Progressive 2BBL in speedy the inner deck lid area needs to be cut out to allow for 5/8" clearance at the forward edge.
Cutting the deck lid open is a great thing, we have seen motors perform and drop a lot in running temperature. Your car looks awesome by the way..
Doesn't an opening like that cause some problems with rain, though?
Nothing a carb hat won't cure. Besides, who in their right mind would drive a speedster in the rain...
The year I built that car it poured at Carlisle Ramada, I cut a 1/4" x 6" square of foil insulation set it on top of the air cleaner closed the deck lid it formed a 5 cent rain hat....it can be driven like that because the sides of the element remain open tothe air.
Alex at Vintage motors posted that he's seen temperature drop after "cutting the deck open"....doesn't louvers accomplish he same result without the concern for rain water because of the basically 'roofed over' slits?
Okay Bill, short answer is I'm tired of screwing around with us big engine. Leon came over and was really great and make my carburetors correct and adjusted my valves. The car ran great for a while. Then began missing.i Re synced the carbs but that didn't seem to do much good. So I thought maybe it was time to readjust the valves. I pulled the valve covers and all the intake valves were about .004. Instead of being at zero lash. I then did a compression test and all the cylinders were registering about 70 pounds per cylinder. My compression gauge is more reliable than that but so I tried running the engine again. It still ran like kah-kah
I didn't want to call me again because I get tired of running back to people who've done favors for me once before. I knew the cheap Chinese carburetors we're running okay for a while, but I really did need to change out the Jets in them which would make them run better, and they did...for while. But I am tired playing. I can build an 1835 or a 1776 and feel ok with using that until time comes for me to sell, then I will reinstall the 1915 and sell it.
I dictated most of the previous message and I tried to correct everything but I missed some parts. Which makes it look and sound a little strange. My apologies again.
No worries, I understand and I'm sorry to hear that your not up and running proper as I thought...
