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Hello all,
I hope somebody with more knowledge about cars (that's all of you) can point me in the right direction. I'm not sure why a "new" car (2001 VS with 4300 miles) should fail to pass an emissions test, but the carbon monoxide was "off the charts". ("sorry for the gratuitous use of parentheses and quotation marks", he said with a knowing grin.) Does this have anything to do with the assumed after-market exhaust that makes it growl or is this just standard rebuilt old VW motor. My friend told me to register it as a hobbyist car, but the the plates were misleading since I don't work on my turn-key replica. Also, the color scheme on the Hobbyist plates are a bit grotesque. Any input before I take it to a VW mechanic who charges me Porsche prices would be appreciated. Thanks a lot again. I'll be donating to the website for years to come for all the advice I get here. Maybe one day I can repay you all. Thanks,
exhaustedly yours,
Luke
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Hello all,
I hope somebody with more knowledge about cars (that's all of you) can point me in the right direction. I'm not sure why a "new" car (2001 VS with 4300 miles) should fail to pass an emissions test, but the carbon monoxide was "off the charts". ("sorry for the gratuitous use of parentheses and quotation marks", he said with a knowing grin.) Does this have anything to do with the assumed after-market exhaust that makes it growl or is this just standard rebuilt old VW motor. My friend told me to register it as a hobbyist car, but the the plates were misleading since I don't work on my turn-key replica. Also, the color scheme on the Hobbyist plates are a bit grotesque. Any input before I take it to a VW mechanic who charges me Porsche prices would be appreciated. Thanks a lot again. I'll be donating to the website for years to come for all the advice I get here. Maybe one day I can repay you all. Thanks,
exhaustedly yours,
Luke
If you have no choice but to try and pass emissions, here are a few tips I got from Darren.
Run gas with the highest ethanol content you can find.
Move one step down in idle and main jets so you are running lean.
Adjust your timing out a few degrees.
Make a restrictor plate for your exhaust. That is, remove your header to exhaust gasket and replace it with a plate that has a smaller hole than the size of your exhaust. For example, I have a 1 3/4" exhaust that opens to 2 1/2" at the collector so I am putting a plate in that has a 1 1/2" hole in it.

All these things will make the engine run like crap, and also run very hot, so it's best if you don't have much of a drive to the testing station.

Anyone have any other ideas?
CRC Industries has a product calle "Guaranteed to Pass" sound stupid, but it really works. You pour a bottle in your gas tank, and it will make even the most out of tune beast pass california emissions tests.. The company I work for makes it, (CRC) and I really didn't believe it. But two of my sons used it in clunkers that did not pass the first time.....they passed. I think it's sold a Kragen, chief, Grand auto, pep boys, auto zone type places. I'm not selling the stuff and get no credit if you do....just info



Gclarke "The Vacaville Guy"
Thanks for the input. Even with the ugly "collector" plates, if it's '68 or newer (mine's a '68) they need to pass emissions one time and then are exempt. I'll try leaning it out, but I'm pretty sure that won't be enough. I'll also try that "Guaranteed to pass" stuff. I think if that all fails, I'll just reregister it at the address of my girlfriends Mom's place, WAY up north. Our state in it's infinite wisdom only requires emissions testing in the populated areas. Apparently the air in Wisconsin doesn't move.
Do adjust the carb and timing right on. Do test it on a hot day... maybe even pull the fanbelt for the last half mile to the place then replace it there. Get desperate, drain the tank and put two gallons of white Coleman camp stove gas in it.... maybe add that stuff somebody spoke about above. The Coleman fuel is super clean.
The higher-octane gas you burn the more likely you are to fail. The higher the octane gas the slower it burns and the more resistant it is to combustion. So you get less complete combustion and more emissions in the same motor. The higher ethanol will help.

One of the reasons I am going to EFI is to pass emissions testing. Last year I squeaked through with my Dell
Hey Bruce, my IM passed with very little adjusting. Opened up the valves a bit and backed off on the timing. Changed the jets and I've left them the way they are...car runs fine with them. Passed with ease...re-adjusted valves and advanced timing. I wonder if my CD box and Mallory Distributor had anything to do with it passing so easily (compared to last year). Wouldn't it be great if we could pass air care without having to adjust anything...I hope the fuel injection does the trick.
Ron
I just took my car through aircare today. Filled up with Mohawk ethanol gas, 89 octane. Drove it on the freeway to heat it up. Then stopped just outside the testing station and screwed in all the idle screws till it would barely run. I told them it was a u-built so it didn't need a cat, and also only had to meet '86 requirements. It passed the idle test with flying colors, and the driving test with about 75% of the allowable. I'm pretty happy with that!

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Bitz Racing. EFI made specifically for the 911 motor.
www.bitzracing.com/index.html

And....the guy is Canadian....just like the guy who invented the telephone....Graham...something.


Ron
Okay, how many of you had the urge to post the name 'Bell'...come one admit it.."Hey Watson, you asshole, get back here quick...I've caught it in my Zipper again" (this is the real version).
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