Another fine fabrication job!
This make you, The Duke Duke Duke...Duke of Pearl
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Another fine fabrication job!
This make you, The Duke Duke Duke...Duke of Pearl
This make you, The Duke Duke Duke...Duke of Pearl
Gordon, the lights look great. You need your own TV show, I'd love to see your fabrication shop/garage. Alan has already got the theme song for the show figured out, maybe Vince could produce it. Again, great looking job!
Pat
Pat
Bitchin'!!!
Gordon,
You and your son Chris can scream and argue with each other just like SR and JR :) ... ya good at slamming doors?
You and your son Chris can scream and argue with each other just like SR and JR :) ... ya good at slamming doors?
Gordon,
Those mounting brackets are WONDERFUL ! Just beautiful ! ! ! Could you shoot me an email, or post here, how you did them? Flat sheet that you bent? Angle stock that you cut? Any more info? I found a neat pair of HELLA lamps on an old Mercedes with the big HELLA oval logo cast into the glass; they'd accept a very similar mount.
Thanks, and GREAT JOB !!
TC
Those mounting brackets are WONDERFUL ! Just beautiful ! ! ! Could you shoot me an email, or post here, how you did them? Flat sheet that you bent? Angle stock that you cut? Any more info? I found a neat pair of HELLA lamps on an old Mercedes with the big HELLA oval logo cast into the glass; they'd accept a very similar mount.
Thanks, and GREAT JOB !!
TC
They look great...
I've begun to be concerned with all the holes drilled in my car creating a perforation line where if the inevitable were to happen, it wouldn't just be a crunch repair,but more like a 'tear along this line and return this portion with your payment' sort of scenario!
Recently going to nerfs, I welded my bracket (not nearly as elegant as yours) a washer, to the nerf's bracket and attached my new Marchal replicas from NLA to that... It does sort of give me the jiggle like the ol' motocycle daze, but eh! They are real bright!
The wires got encased in some of that corregated protective plactic sleeve stuff. My henchman had some red laying around and thought it looked cool with the red stripe on my car. It did, but not my vision. I love black electrical tape.
Oh, and because there are no holes in the bod, and I had popped for another set of lamps, I kept the stock bumper, with the previos driving lights in tact as an option when I try and do my best Vintage Dale Bates impersonation.
I've begun to be concerned with all the holes drilled in my car creating a perforation line where if the inevitable were to happen, it wouldn't just be a crunch repair,but more like a 'tear along this line and return this portion with your payment' sort of scenario!
Recently going to nerfs, I welded my bracket (not nearly as elegant as yours) a washer, to the nerf's bracket and attached my new Marchal replicas from NLA to that... It does sort of give me the jiggle like the ol' motocycle daze, but eh! They are real bright!
The wires got encased in some of that corregated protective plactic sleeve stuff. My henchman had some red laying around and thought it looked cool with the red stripe on my car. It did, but not my vision. I love black electrical tape.
Oh, and because there are no holes in the bod, and I had popped for another set of lamps, I kept the stock bumper, with the previos driving lights in tact as an option when I try and do my best Vintage Dale Bates impersonation.
Paul,
All the those extra Gee Gaws generate lots of wind resistence and HP sapping weight. You always told me you spent your nights under the sheets, why the lights?
All the those extra Gee Gaws generate lots of wind resistence and HP sapping weight. You always told me you spent your nights under the sheets, why the lights?
"why the lights? "
Shadow puppets . . .
Shadow puppets . . .
Very nice! But, no duct tape?
ed
ed
Good job Gordon.
Those appear more difficult to mount without bumpers than the Bosch units I acquired (Where I could simply bend the bracket to mount it directly to the body instead)
I'm with you on drilling holes - my bonnet filler hole had me in a cold sweat!
Simon
Those appear more difficult to mount without bumpers than the Bosch units I acquired (Where I could simply bend the bracket to mount it directly to the body instead)
I'm with you on drilling holes - my bonnet filler hole had me in a cold sweat!
Simon
Paul; Your speedster looked great when we were up in Oregon, thats why you won a trophy. I really like the nerfs
Lookin' good, Gordo! When you held them up to your car at Carlisle, that
was the ticket!!
Ray: Nerf's R Kewl!
BD
was the ticket!!
Ray: Nerf's R Kewl!
BD
"We're not worthy!"
Should I ever get off me arse and build one of these things, I'll be firing emails of right and left to you and Alan. You guys can (figuratively, of course) hold my hand though the process.
Should I ever get off me arse and build one of these things, I'll be firing emails of right and left to you and Alan. You guys can (figuratively, of course) hold my hand though the process.
Ok, so it's been a slow Summer here in the Micro State so far, and I needed something to do, and I had these REALLY nifty Marshall Driving Lights that I won at the Carlisle Raffle, so I decided that I needed one more project to take up my time (good thing I don't drink Coffee anymore - I might have needed THREE more projects!!)
Technically, the lights are meant to mount on tabs or brackets attached to the bumper mounts, or those nice tubular bumper over-riders that a lot of cars have, but I have none of those and, instead, have my tiny little "Nerf" bars. Looking at the lights after I won them, Chris and his friend suggested that they would look best mounted more-or-less in line with the directionals, between the Nerfs and the front license plate, so that's where they went.
First, I had to fabricate a pair of body mounts for them, and decided against a simple angle bracket as they will be somewhat exposed to view without a bumper to hide them. I went with a sculpted angle bracket, beefy enough to keep them from jiggling (3/16" thick Stainless Steel Plate and a three point mount) and then sanded and polished it to a mirror finish so it looks like chrome plate. (see "new Bracket" picture below)
Next, I had to attach the light to the bracket and supported it on a bunch of wood blocks (both lights) to get it to where it looked right, and then marked the body where the bracket was. Using the bracket as a template, I drilled holes for the mounting bolts (THAT takes some bravado - drilling into the FRONT of the car!!) and then used a piece of a truck inner tube as a body gasket for the bracket. The mounting bolts are stainless steel carriage bolts and I polished the heads to a mirror finish, too.
Once the brackets were mounted, the lights were attached (I used two SS lock washers as spacers to move them up a bit) and then looked at them for a while deciding how to conceal the wires. After attending the Street Rod Summer Nationals and looking at some of the rods there, I decided to use Stainless Steel Braided Tubing to dress them off. Hmmmmmmmmm......where to get it cheap?? Turns out, that stainless a 3/8" compression coupling hose for a kitchen faucet has the same threads as the mounting stud of the Marshall Driving Light!! All you have to do is modify the flare inside the end of the coupling to reduce its height ("Creative Dremeling" it's called) so that the threaded coupler can thread easily onto the stud. Run the wires through, screw it onto the stud and use 1/2" cable clamps to hold it to the Bumper Mounts under the car. This can be seen in the picture "Light with Conduit" below. Came out pretty cool, and it cost less than three dollars per side. Make sure you get REAL stainless braiding....Home Depot only carries something with plastic braid {8>( so I went to a plumbing supplier instead.
Pearl was already relayed and wired for fogs and driving lights, so the wiring was pretty straight-forward from here. They are wired directly to high beam (no separate switch) and work great, other than one bulb has a slight Rose tint to the bulb glass, giving it a rosy, "Mother of Pearl" look when lit. I kinda like it!!
Anyway, projects over - Time to go sailing and, Guess What?? Hurricane Cindy is dumping 5" of rain all over Rhode Island...Back to sailing on Monday...
Gordon
The Busy Old Coot from Rhode Island
Technically, the lights are meant to mount on tabs or brackets attached to the bumper mounts, or those nice tubular bumper over-riders that a lot of cars have, but I have none of those and, instead, have my tiny little "Nerf" bars. Looking at the lights after I won them, Chris and his friend suggested that they would look best mounted more-or-less in line with the directionals, between the Nerfs and the front license plate, so that's where they went.
First, I had to fabricate a pair of body mounts for them, and decided against a simple angle bracket as they will be somewhat exposed to view without a bumper to hide them. I went with a sculpted angle bracket, beefy enough to keep them from jiggling (3/16" thick Stainless Steel Plate and a three point mount) and then sanded and polished it to a mirror finish so it looks like chrome plate. (see "new Bracket" picture below)
Next, I had to attach the light to the bracket and supported it on a bunch of wood blocks (both lights) to get it to where it looked right, and then marked the body where the bracket was. Using the bracket as a template, I drilled holes for the mounting bolts (THAT takes some bravado - drilling into the FRONT of the car!!) and then used a piece of a truck inner tube as a body gasket for the bracket. The mounting bolts are stainless steel carriage bolts and I polished the heads to a mirror finish, too.
Once the brackets were mounted, the lights were attached (I used two SS lock washers as spacers to move them up a bit) and then looked at them for a while deciding how to conceal the wires. After attending the Street Rod Summer Nationals and looking at some of the rods there, I decided to use Stainless Steel Braided Tubing to dress them off. Hmmmmmmmmm......where to get it cheap?? Turns out, that stainless a 3/8" compression coupling hose for a kitchen faucet has the same threads as the mounting stud of the Marshall Driving Light!! All you have to do is modify the flare inside the end of the coupling to reduce its height ("Creative Dremeling" it's called) so that the threaded coupler can thread easily onto the stud. Run the wires through, screw it onto the stud and use 1/2" cable clamps to hold it to the Bumper Mounts under the car. This can be seen in the picture "Light with Conduit" below. Came out pretty cool, and it cost less than three dollars per side. Make sure you get REAL stainless braiding....Home Depot only carries something with plastic braid {8>( so I went to a plumbing supplier instead.
Pearl was already relayed and wired for fogs and driving lights, so the wiring was pretty straight-forward from here. They are wired directly to high beam (no separate switch) and work great, other than one bulb has a slight Rose tint to the bulb glass, giving it a rosy, "Mother of Pearl" look when lit. I kinda like it!!
Anyway, projects over - Time to go sailing and, Guess What?? Hurricane Cindy is dumping 5" of rain all over Rhode Island...Back to sailing on Monday...
Gordon
The Busy Old Coot from Rhode Island
Duke, Duke, Duke....Duke of Earl....
Well, They often call me Speedo but my REAL name is....Mister Earl.....
Pat: Like many home fabricators, my shop is un-inspiring. Tools used were: Sawz-all, Bench-top Drill Press, air-powered cut-off wheel (for trimming around the curves), Dremel Tool and various bits, LOTS of wet sandpaper and a rubber hand sanding block, 3/8
Well, They often call me Speedo but my REAL name is....Mister Earl.....
Pat: Like many home fabricators, my shop is un-inspiring. Tools used were: Sawz-all, Bench-top Drill Press, air-powered cut-off wheel (for trimming around the curves), Dremel Tool and various bits, LOTS of wet sandpaper and a rubber hand sanding block, 3/8