Any suggestions on pedal covers? I emailed a piano material site for knob but they are all in metric and when i tried my knob at home depot it was standard threads. I got the carpet kit ordered, new leather shifter boot and hand brake boot, gasket for front trunk and some other things. Installed battery enclosure, engineered foot peg bought on here, seatbelts bought on here, powered subwoofer. With the help and advice of people on here I got the door working as well. Thank you. Received five tins and went to air cooled car club event and found local shop that can work on reducing heat on engine temps, add external oil cooler if needed, possibly work on shimmy in steering wheel and do upholstery/top work so making progress. Now looking at the detail items like pedals, stick shift knob. Is there anything that goes on the dash for emblem and where to buy?
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Also, any safe cleaner/polish to go over those Fuchs wheels safely or just wash and dry with car? I have some glue on the metal around dashboard from when they glued eyebrow on. I tried to clean some marks off vinyl with rubbing alcohol but it faded the color so I am cautious about how to get some of this stuff clean safely. Any color match cream/paint/dye for the tan interior vinyl stuff or just live with it? Got some sunblock on the door which faded it a bit, had them put the high speaker right through that spot but a little remains. Nothing serious just details. Also, passenger side mirror adjustment....i loosened and had wife try to turn towards me but it seems it will not migrate to driver direction far enough to get any useful view of side/rear of car. Is that par for the course and it is a phantom mirror for looks only?
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The problem with the passenger side mirror is a common one. Some of the folks here know of a fix with some sort of spacer that allows more adjustment, but the simplest fix is to order a convex replacement mirror. I did that on both sides of my Speedster and, while "Objects in mirror are closer than they appear," it really works well.
@Lane Anderson i googled that and this is what came back. Is this what you are thinking? https://sierramadrecollection....-356b-t5-p18328.html it fits the same holes as the original? $220 or so for the pair.
On the OEM dash there would be a grab handle ($33) on passengers side and a lightening bolt Porsche emblem ($84) and often a Meister Schaften badge ($21). Prices from Klasse356.
@WOLFGANG i found two of them but not dash handle. It seems you need to drill 4-5 holes in dash to put porsche emblem? two holes for dash handle? is there access to put bolts from back? Is there a certain name for dash handle?
I have a phone mount that suctions to the dashboard so I was thinking of putting a different twist on the dash layout to accommodate. I came up with a couple cool badges i could doubleback tape to dash. I would just use one. Not sure if either is totally uncalled for or out of place on my 57 replica. I just figured out there is a 356 group in florida and one in my city so the badge of that group might be cool. This would be instead of the standard long porsche emblem and meister badge since my phone mount is on right side and swings horizontally towards drivers seat left
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@John Bungen posted:@Lane Anderson i googled that and this is what came back. Is this what you are thinking? https://sierramadrecollection....-356b-t5-p18328.html it fits the same holes as the original? $220 or so for the pair.
Yes, but I was able to buy just the mirrors in the metal part, without the pedestal. I can’t remember how I did that, though. Even if you buy the whole thing you can just swap out the mirrors very easily.
@WOLFGANG posted:On the OEM dash there would be a grab handle ($33) on passengers side and a lightening bolt Porsche emblem ($84) and often a Meister Schaften badge ($21). Prices from Klasse356.
You might note that the Meisterschaften Deutsche Sportwagen badge you show here reads "1950-1957" and it is for a 1958 model Speedster. The badge for a 1957 model reads "1950-1956".
@John Bungen posted:@WOLFGANG i found two of them but not dash handle. It seems you need to drill 4-5 holes in dash to put porsche emblem? two holes for dash handle? is there access to put bolts from back? Is there a certain name for dash handle?
You can put the script on with double sided tape if you don't want to drill that many holes.
There is access to the back of the dash for the grab handle.
@John Bungen posted:@Lane Anderson i googled that and this is what came back. Is this what you are thinking? https://sierramadrecollection....-356b-t5-p18328.html it fits the same holes as the original? $220 or so for the pair.
Sierra Madre Collection has a Replica Car section so make sure you're shopping in that area to save money. You can buy just the right side mirror in a convex glass for about $110.00. You could also email them and see if you can get just the glass.
@John Bungen posted:@WOLFGANG Is there a certain name for dash handle?
Commonly referred to as the “Omigod Bar.”
@John Bungen posted:@WOLFGANG i found two of them but not dash handle. It seems you need to drill 4-5 holes in dash to put porsche emblem? two holes for dash handle? is there access to put bolts from back? Is there a certain name for dash handle?
It's called a Dash Grab Handle:
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Like Lane, I also got just the convex glass and screwed it onto the aero mirror bases that came with my VS. Mine was from Sierra Madre. They still carry the glass as a separate item, but they've jacked up the price to within just a few dollars of the whole mirror. Here's the link.
It was about half that price a few years ago.
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I have the FOG grille badge on back of my DL Speedster. I think it's too big to put on the dash.
If you use the emblem pins with drilled holes the fiberglass may be too think for the clips used for the back. The fiberglass could be sanded thinner or just use silicon sealer or super glue to hold the emblems.
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I'd recommend clear silicone for emblems and such where the fiberglass is too thick to use clips. Super glue will probably stick to the paint and peel it up if the emblem is removed. Silicone will hold but tear when removed, leaving no damage.
If you install the emblem WITHOUT pins(cut the pins off), use emblem tape. I have some thin black stuff from Wurth that works really well, it's thin enough that it just about disappears and holds well. First, stick the tape to the back of the emblem. It is a bit of a PIA to cut out the outline though. I use an X-acto knife and put the emblem/tape right side up with backing still on one side over a piece of stainless steel sheet(you could use glass also).
I did this to my VW Corrado back in the 90s when it was repainted. I had some minor body damage from carelessness(not mine). We repainted the whole car due to the quickly-fading water-based red they used. New emblems were expensive, so I removed the old tape and applied new.
I think my grill badge is on with double stick 3M tape as there is no bolts on backside and it is firmly planted on there.
On the subject of emblem attachment...
I've been using 3M Press-in-Place adhesive to reattach emblems with great success. Trim off the posts and press the emblem back onto the adhesive, when you pull it off it's sticky and ready to place on the car. Minimal/easy clean-up is needed in the inclusions of letters, P's O's etc. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065949/
It's soft at first but hardens up after a few days in the sun. Removal is easy with a bit of dental floss.
One tip about a lot of 3M adhesive tapes: they’re “air activated,” so don’t rush to pull the backing off and slap it on. Give it ~30-60 seconds for the adhesive to activate.
Tip 2: Spray some windex on the surface prior to sticking the emblem on. It will give you a little leeway for straightening it out and the alcohol mix won’t affect the adhesion. Once it’s in just the right spot, press it down to squeeze the liquid out, then don’t touch it for 4-5 hours.
I used to apply 4’ long vinyl stickers to sailboats and if you messed one of those up it was pretty much get out the heat gun to get it off, toss it in the trash and start over. That’s how we applied them, only we used a soft silicone squeegee to get the liquid out from under the vinyl once it was perfectly straight.
That's a great tip. I'll have to remember that for when my Sonauto badge comes.