Possible pedal option https://www.facebook.com/comme...ref=share_attachment 
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Those pedals look great ! I'm looking for some wide pedals for my new build, maybe these are the ones.
Thanks Alan
Those are sweet! And not a bad price.
@Alan Merklin daddy like!....my little black car is crying out for this upgrade...already have the BIG BOY kit installed...so looks EZPZ 
@Alan Merklin is there an alternate way to purchase , since i don't do facebook.....feel free to PM me with info...thanx
Not mine, just thought they were way cool....be aware there has been a lot of positives on FB so if you want a set I would jump on it now ....If you don't have FB find someone that does.
I think they are nice but they do look long and I wonder how they feel under the foot. The Fat boy option available in the USA, supplier escapes me is a pretty awesome setup that I thought of trying. 13 EEE size moccasins. 
I wouldn't be surprised that you may have to trim the top of the pedals , even though the seller claims same as type 1, they look a little tall.
@Alan Merklin on their website @imohrperformance.com.br there is a video (although in portuguese) that shows a guy with these installed in a type 1 beetle....he does a test drive & they seem just fine....like i said, i'll be the test dummy & report my findings
imohr.com.br/en/pedal-assembly--vwbeetle# in case anyone wants to go to the source my concern is my coo coo mats may need altering cuz of the adjustable stops
These pedals certainly LOOK great. If they work well too they would be very cool to have.
The angle of the gas pedal is greatly changed. I am wondering how that would feel.
Looking at their stock Beetle aluminum base, from the accelerator roller to the top of their pedals looks to be about 1-1/2" or so higher than stock , so they might need a bit of trimming .
I think they give a vertical dimension on the website.
Only because I'm in the market for new pedals and happened upon this thread, I'll make this a bit more useful for those that follow. Can anyone recommend a better alternative to our stock pedals?
Pedal Assembly - VW Beetle
Code: P-VW
US $188.31
Specials pedals made from steel and CNC-machined, for use in stock accent. Use standart clutch and throtlle cable system. This a KIT, you need to use your own standard alloy base, clutch axle, brake spring and link and throtlle link and roller.
Extra large for better sport use.
Easy to install, drill required. Bolts, washers and hex nuts included.
https://imohr.com.br/en/produc...-assembly--vw-beetle
Maybe @jncspyder can weigh in. I seem to recall him putting the set he bought up for sale as they wouldn’t work with his footwell or something.
If you’re looking for new pedals, you might want to talk to Greg @ Vintage. That’s where I got my CNC pedals and I think he’s the only ones that still has any. (CNC closed up shop a couple of years ago)
Another alternative is https://www.classicbugparts.co...-boy-pedal-extender/
Thats what I was going to do before I decided to start from scratch.
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@Ryan (formerly) in NorCal posted:
I've seen these before, and to my eye they are unworkable. The position of those pedals (the tops actually tilting back towards the driver) would be impossible to heel/toe with.
I didn't even like how upright my VW pedal cluster stood, so I took it out and welded some new stops on the brake and clutch pedals so they wouldn't return so far. Doing so made them ideally positioned for heel/toe work.
The problem is that the clutch throw is shorter, so adjustment becomes very, very important.
It's worth the effort.
I recently saw a "story" on Fibersteel's Instagram feed where they are introducing a VW pedal kit for the 356 replicas. I don't see it yet listed on their website, but you may want to call them.
@Ryan (formerly) in NorCal @Stan Galatto be fair & balanced.....these WILL NOT work in a 356 replica body because the dash hangs to low and a few inches have to be cut off the pedals....my problem as well is i have the BIG BOY 3/4 " clutch shaft extension (which is better than stock because it uses a nut & bolt rather than the "hook" device) that i wanted to keep which in turn makes the entire assembly to wide to fit in the existing stock floorpan area...that being said, the juice just wasn't worth the squeeze for use in my application....they are made for a stock type 1 pan ie: beetle or ghia....with use of the stock length clutch shaft....or stock length BIG BOY clutch shaft minus the 3/4 " extension .....i have a guy who wants them for his very trick VW SHOW CAR ,but they are available still.... since i recently told him i can't wait forever.....they come from brazil, so the $188.00 does not include substantial shipping from south america...1st $200.00 offer takes them and i'll eat some shipping to the USA continent....as far as the heel/toe issue.....president of stan-is-stan could be correct....but being absolutely TRICK out ways some things... again just IMHO
I'm gonna have to disagree with you on this one, JNC. Function is number one before "looks" or "trick".
If you want to DRIVE hard, which usually includes heel and toe work, the pedals better be placed properly.
I have the individual clutch and brake pedals that dlear476 posted a picture of, along with an individual throttle. I positioned the throttle even with the pressed brake pedal. It's perfect.
RE:Fibersteel. Their stuff is very expensive, and the stuff I've seen isn't really worth the money. I've no knowledge of these new parts, just denoting my experience with their Spyder shifter.
I will say that the drumskins and front jack points are reasonably priced and well-made.
...but i'm 6'2" and i barely fit in my little black car office...and my leg position will not allow me to heel /toe in my car regardless of neat or trick....so, we both can be right...a little
@DannyP posted:I have the individual clutch and brake pedals that dlear476 posted a picture of, along with an individual throttle. I positioned the throttle even with the pressed brake pedal. It's perfect.
A little too perfect. Like when you forget your driving or boat shoes and decide to go for a drive in your tennis shoes and mash the gas during a panic stop. DAMHIK 
I wish I could get accustomed to driving barefoot, but it kind of creeps me out, like using a hand truck to move furniture while wearing flip flops.
Seriously though, I love this set up. I don’t even have to heel and toe. I just rock my foot towards the throttle to blip the throttle.
@dlearl476 posted:Like when you forget your driving or boat shoes and decide to go for a drive in your tennis shoes
Converse Chuck Taylors are perfect shoes for driving. Perfect.
@Stan Galat posted:Converse Chuck Taylors are perfect shoes for driving. Perfect.
Chucks are perfect for everything!
@dlearl476 posted:A little too perfect. Like when you forget your driving or boat shoes and decide to go for a drive in your tennis shoes and mash the gas during a panic stop. DAMHIK
I wish I could get accustomed to driving barefoot, but it kind of creeps me out, like using a hand truck to move furniture while wearing flip flops.
Seriously though, I love this set up. I don’t even have to heel and toe. I just rock my foot towards the throttle to blip the throttle.
My gas pedal is a little behind the brake, not dead even like I thought.
I just use the side of my foot to blip, same as I do in the Cayman on the track.
I did mash the throttle and brake one time in my old Spyder coming to a light. Yes, it is true that brakes can overpower the throttle! I drove it to work that day but forgot to take my boots off for the drive home. At the time, they were Red Wing Lineman boots, steel toe and shank in the sole for pole climbing. They were real clod-hoppers, as in HUGE!
@Michael Pickett posted:Chucks are perfect for everything!
Too much stickum could be an issue
I found the Fibersteel set.
#LE9.4 - Fibersteel Deluxe Reproduction 550 Pedal Assembly
$1,550.00
Wow.... Fibersteel's prices are kind-of up there, aren't they?
I reached out to Fibersteel. He sent me the two attached photos; with this description:
”bolt in VW pedals, with 550 Spyder styling. Price is $500”
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@Kevin - Bay Area posted:I reached out to Fibersteel. He sent me the two attached photos; with this description:
”bolt in VW pedals, with 550 Spyder styling. Price is $500”
I think I’d go with Ron’s Big Boy kit (and all the other Classic Bug Parts upgrades) before that. Somehow that clutch pedal hanging way out there with no support sets off my Spidey senses.
It does look more period correct, though.
FWIW, I think that a guy with some welding skills and a few power tools could make that Tonella set work just fine. $200 is a heck of a price for a set of pedals.
@IaM-Ray posted:Too much stickum could be an issue
Boy Howdy. I put new rubber pads on the brake and clutch pedal on the 968 the other day, then donned my new Puma/Sparco Speedcats and went for a drive. The extra stickum caught me out twice.
For some reason, Chuck’s never fit me. I was the only guy in Jr and Sr high playing basketball in blue toe Fred Perry’s.
The clutch pedal bothered me too.
That pedal cluster above is nothing more than a late model beetle pedal assembly with some holes drilled and a fabricated, extended clutch pedal. I think anyone with a little fabrication skill could make one for short money.
Having made my own Spyder pedal set out of shop detritus, I'm gonna weigh in here and say that FS Beetle/Spyder set at $500 is probably a damn good bargain.
Yes, it's a Beetle set with some mods. Yes, you could probably fab up something similar on your own...if you're the type who does stupid stuff like that. But your time and parts in is gonna be more than $500.
The rig is not just right, which the $1,500 rig is very close to being. But the $1,500 rig requires all kinds of fiddling and fettling and welding to fit to a typical PCCA Spyder. The $500 rig very probably does not.
If you have an older Beck or TR Spyder you're set up for the Beetle pedal set and that would bolt right in. The lower tube extending the clutch pedal looks thick enough to hold up fine & it would normally sit under or just even with the "floating floor" your Spyder uses (of course you do have a floating floor in front of the bulkhead if you're in the market for correct looking Spyder pedals). Paint it black and it'll disappear.
And if that lower tube flexes? You bolt a brace to the floor near the L-bend with a bushing for it to pass through.
Overall, nice product, 9/10.
I don’t know, Ed. From a design standpoint, that pedal cluster looks like a hot mess. Ferdinand is rolling over in his grave.