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I'm to the point where I need to install pedals in my Spyder. It's a TR and it has a bracket inside for VW pedals. Has anyone used stock pedals? How do they work and would you recommend using them. The manual doesn't say anything about converting the stock cable clutch to hydraulic. Do you have to drill a hole in the stock arm for the master cylinder to hook to? If any body has a good aftermarket brand to recommend I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks
Rem
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I'm to the point where I need to install pedals in my Spyder. It's a TR and it has a bracket inside for VW pedals. Has anyone used stock pedals? How do they work and would you recommend using them. The manual doesn't say anything about converting the stock cable clutch to hydraulic. Do you have to drill a hole in the stock arm for the master cylinder to hook to? If any body has a good aftermarket brand to recommend I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks
Rem
I modified stock pedals and changed the clutch to hydraulic. Check out the photos under my folder titlede SpyderMike. They work fine.

CNC makes a mod kit to add hydraulic clutch to stock pedals. I changed this kit slightly by using a rod end at teh pedal arm instead of welding a fixed tang.

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

MIke
They are a large manufacturer of VW off Road stuff. Brakes, Pedal assemblies, etc. They don't have a website to speak of, but check any off-road sand-rail web site and they will be there.

I use www.mckenzies.com; they are a big CNC distributor....look under PRODUCTS>BRAKES. The part number of the hydraulic kit I bought is CNC-320B I think (you would want to verify that)...cost is $130 and it includes the Master Cylinder, the Slave Cylinder, nylon fittings/tubing and installation hardware. On top of that I bought a CNC aluminum reservoir and the rod end. In the end, I routed the nylon tubing from the master cylinder to a little bracket I made and installed (using adel clamps) at the shock tower cross tubes. I then used a standard steel braided wheel brake line to go from the bracket to the slave cylinder. I did this because the slave moves when actuated and the nylon tubing popped out a couple of times. There is also a bracket you can buy that repositions one end of the slave cylinder so that the pull is straight - www.formulanine.com/SlaveSaver/slave_saver.
I will probably do this some time down the road.

My car is here at my business - so if you need I can reel off some digital pics. I am traveling from tomorrow until 9/22 though.

Regards,
Mike
They are a large manufacturer of VW off Road stuff. Brakes, Pedal assemblies, etc. They don't have a website to speak of, but check any off-road sand-rail web site and they will be there.

I use www.mckenzies.com; they are a big CNC distributor....look under PRODUCTS>BRAKES. The part number of the hydraulic kit I bought is CNC-320B I think (you would want to verify that)...cost is $130 and it includes the Master Cylinder, the Slave Cylinder, nylon fittings/tubing and installation hardware. On top of that I bought a CNC aluminum reservoir and the rod end. In the end, I routed the nylon tubing from the master cylinder to a little bracket I made and installed (using adel clamps) at the shock tower cross tubes. I then used a standard steel braided wheel brake line to go from the bracket to the slave cylinder. I did this because the slave moves when actuated and the nylon tubing popped out a couple of times. There is also a bracket you can buy that repositions one end of the slave cylinder so that the pull is straight - www.formulanine.com/SlaveSaver/slave_saver.
I will probably do this some time down the road.

My car is here at my business - so if you need I can reel off some digital pics. I am traveling from tomorrow until 9/22 though.

Regards,
Mike
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