Sorry for the double post, and I looked at my engine picture above again and Damn! That thing was FILTHY when that picture was taken!
I may have an engine for you. It is a 1776 all pumped up a new from the ground up starting with aluminum case that has less than 500 miles so the rings are not even seated. (ALL receitps)
I have over $2500 into it which of course counts the R & R.
I have a lead on a Bradley kit with a 2180 which I may get if it runs out well.
You may contact me directly at info@nuvideo.com
I will know more after the NY weekend.
I beg to differ on bad mouthing 1776 motors. Henry at IM regularly puts them in his cars and dynos them at 100 HP. I opted for a 1776 when I found that not one engine builder would warranty anything over a 1776. Since this is my daily driver when it is not raining, I want a motor that is really reliable.
I have over $2500 into it which of course counts the R & R.
I have a lead on a Bradley kit with a 2180 which I may get if it runs out well.
You may contact me directly at info@nuvideo.com
I will know more after the NY weekend.
I beg to differ on bad mouthing 1776 motors. Henry at IM regularly puts them in his cars and dynos them at 100 HP. I opted for a 1776 when I found that not one engine builder would warranty anything over a 1776. Since this is my daily driver when it is not raining, I want a motor that is really reliable.
We're not bad-mouthing 1,776's.
On the contrary, Jim-Bob Ward made the trek from Mid-West, Red-Dirt country to Los Angeles and back with his 1,776 screamer, spending many hours cruising at 4 grand and above (not that he would "officially" admit that).
There's nothing wrong with a 1,776, especially if you're happy with their performance (which ain't too bad, either!)
gn
On the contrary, Jim-Bob Ward made the trek from Mid-West, Red-Dirt country to Los Angeles and back with his 1,776 screamer, spending many hours cruising at 4 grand and above (not that he would "officially" admit that).
There's nothing wrong with a 1,776, especially if you're happy with their performance (which ain't too bad, either!)
gn
What kind of performance (HP TORQUE) can be expected from a mild 1776? TOM
Hi Tom,
Before I went Type4, I had a stock 1776 w/single carb and I believe it was rated at or near 65HP. The first engine rebuild maybe took it to85- 90HP and the last build probably coaxed 125-135HP out of it.
I never had any cooling issues with that engine of any sort.
I did learn that Webber carbs can be fussy. The first duals I put on I believe were 34mm Kadrons with a choke and they were like set for life, no adjustments, no coughing, just start up and drive.
When the engine was built the second time I did have some rocker/spring related problems as I had created a lot more force and once I snapped something along the top that was eventually replaced with something called elephant's feet... I dunno, it was simple and not very costly fix.
I did notice that a less restrictive exhaust set up brethes more life into acceleration curves, really... someone likened the flow of Niagra Falls syphoned through a thimble elsewhere on the site and that is pretty true...back pressure robs HP, so dial the exhaust sytem in to compliment any engine work...
I believe my engine is still running strong under big foot Brian Bell up north...probably put away for the winter now.
As for torque, I think you need get behind the wheel and drive a few cars to get a sense of what sort of pull you like, when you want it to come on on your powerband...I had a hard time learning the importance of torque as it relates to our little engines...now I get it. sort of.
wildridezzz at widridezzz
Before I went Type4, I had a stock 1776 w/single carb and I believe it was rated at or near 65HP. The first engine rebuild maybe took it to85- 90HP and the last build probably coaxed 125-135HP out of it.
I never had any cooling issues with that engine of any sort.
I did learn that Webber carbs can be fussy. The first duals I put on I believe were 34mm Kadrons with a choke and they were like set for life, no adjustments, no coughing, just start up and drive.
When the engine was built the second time I did have some rocker/spring related problems as I had created a lot more force and once I snapped something along the top that was eventually replaced with something called elephant's feet... I dunno, it was simple and not very costly fix.
I did notice that a less restrictive exhaust set up brethes more life into acceleration curves, really... someone likened the flow of Niagra Falls syphoned through a thimble elsewhere on the site and that is pretty true...back pressure robs HP, so dial the exhaust sytem in to compliment any engine work...
I believe my engine is still running strong under big foot Brian Bell up north...probably put away for the winter now.
As for torque, I think you need get behind the wheel and drive a few cars to get a sense of what sort of pull you like, when you want it to come on on your powerband...I had a hard time learning the importance of torque as it relates to our little engines...now I get it. sort of.
wildridezzz at widridezzz
Ralph,
email me I may be interested in the 1776
Alan
email me I may be interested in the 1776
Alan
Update:
Did not mean to say "bad mouthed". Sorry.
Spoke with other memer on the list today and he reminded me that there are engines and there are engines. Tiger speaks of putting exhausts on motors that cost $10k which is not far off from a 911. So I looked into the 2180 that was available locally and of course it was out of the mechanical version of a doggie "puppie mill" Not as bad as JCX (?) but close.
S&S Headers sells the Upipe connector that bolts onto the THing extractor flange for $89 or $149 ceramic coated. That sure beats the $300 that the local muffler shops wanted to build one WITHOUT CERAMIC.
Did not mean to say "bad mouthed". Sorry.
Spoke with other memer on the list today and he reminded me that there are engines and there are engines. Tiger speaks of putting exhausts on motors that cost $10k which is not far off from a 911. So I looked into the 2180 that was available locally and of course it was out of the mechanical version of a doggie "puppie mill" Not as bad as JCX (?) but close.
S&S Headers sells the Upipe connector that bolts onto the THing extractor flange for $89 or $149 ceramic coated. That sure beats the $300 that the local muffler shops wanted to build one WITHOUT CERAMIC.
Ralph:
Aren't you in the Boston area?
If so, then try either Dick Shine, of Shine racing in Walpole or Import Machine, Framingham, MA, see Dana Johnson, 508-872-RACE (7223).
These are two local engine builders I would highly recommend for a VW air-cooled (of about any size).
They may not be cheap, but they've been supplying the local racing crowd for years.
gn
Aren't you in the Boston area?
If so, then try either Dick Shine, of Shine racing in Walpole or Import Machine, Framingham, MA, see Dana Johnson, 508-872-RACE (7223).
These are two local engine builders I would highly recommend for a VW air-cooled (of about any size).
They may not be cheap, but they've been supplying the local racing crowd for years.
gn