Skip to main content

I may have come up with a neat fix to prevent the clutch cable tube from moving forward thus releasing the correct bend on the Bowden tube. The picture shows the forward end of the Bowden tube. This end is a female fitting which slips over the rear end of the clutch cable tube and exerts permanent pressure on the rear end of the cable tube due to the correct dip in the Bowden tube. We've heard of many instances where the cable tube's welds have come loose from the attach points along it's length within the tunnel and they can be real bugger to re-attach. A week ago I thought my Bowden tube had the correct dip but on very close examination it did not and it had a half dozen washers shimming it and pushing the front end forward which pushed the cable tube forward. I was able to push the clutch cable tube back to it's original position. I then slipped a short piece of tube the same diameter as the clutch cable tube into the end of the Bowden tube then sleeved over it a longer length of tube the same size as the end of the Bowden tube with a piece of flat stock welded to it. A bit of trial and error cutting the correct lengths of those tubes put the correct bend in the Bowden tube with only two washers for fine adjustment and the flat bar sits against the edges of the hole in the frame that the three tubes pass through. The Bowden tube can no longer push forward on the clutch cable tube. A hose clamp around the front end of the cable tube resting against the rear side of the first bulkhead will prevent it from rattling forward.

David Stroud

 '92 IM Roadster D 2.3 L Air Cooled

Ottawa, Canada

 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I may have come up with a neat fix to prevent the clutch cable tube from moving forward thus releasing the correct bend on the Bowden tube. The picture shows the forward end of the Bowden tube. This end is a female fitting which slips over the rear end of the clutch cable tube and exerts permanent pressure on the rear end of the cable tube due to the correct dip in the Bowden tube. We've heard of many instances where the cable tube's welds have come loose from the attach points along it's length within the tunnel and they can be real bugger to re-attach. A week ago I thought my Bowden tube had the correct dip but on very close examination it did not and it had a half dozen washers shimming it and pushing the front end forward which pushed the cable tube forward. I was able to push the clutch cable tube back to it's original position. I then slipped a short piece of tube the same diameter as the clutch cable tube into the end of the Bowden tube then sleeved over it a longer length of tube the same size as the end of the Bowden tube with a piece of flat stock welded to it. A bit of trial and error cutting the correct lengths of those tubes put the correct bend in the Bowden tube with only two washers for fine adjustment and the flat bar sits against the edges of the hole in the frame that the three tubes pass through. The Bowden tube can no longer push forward on the clutch cable tube. A hose clamp around the front end of the cable tube resting against the rear side of the first bulkhead will prevent it from rattling forward.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Bowden tube front restraint
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×