Pertronix Dist Out of orientation by 90 degrees - HELP

You didn't miss anything Craig. This typically happens when you replace a stock VW distributor with an 009, and is why it's important to pay attention to the mark for cylinder #1 on the top edge of the distributor body. Why they do this, I don't know...Al

 

And alcohol isn't just a solution, it's THE solution!

Regarding the vacuum advance.  You may want to check your backing plate to make sure it move freely with vacuum assist and does not bind to limit such movement against the rubber grommet running through the side of the distributor.  This distributor is famous for this issue. 

I was just reading on SAMBA that an SVDA distributor is 90 off from non-SVDA.  True?

That would make sense for my installation but I don't know why the instructions didn't say anything about this.  If it's true, I'll send Summit Racing feedback on this.

Regarding the vacuum advance.  You may want to check your backing plate to make sure it move freely with vacuum assist and does not bind to limit such movement against the rubber grommet running through the side of the distributor.  This distributor is famous for this issue. 

 

Thanks for the tip.  When I get the Vacuum hooked up, I'll check carefully.

I need to check my TDC tomorrow morning to see if this is No.1 or No.3 cylinder that I have it marked at.  But if that were wrong, wouldn't the rotor be out 180 degrees?

Confused yet?  I am....

 

...going looking for a glass of solution.

 

I have no idea why an SVDA disti would be 90 degrees ahead of a "normal" distributor.  The original VW distributors (all vacuum advance, too) had their scribe mark at about 4 o'clock, just like a 009 and they all look like THIS:

 

 

 

See the scribe at 4 o'clock on the disti body?  It's after the cap clip, not before, as in your photo.  Every VW disti I've worked with looked like that, but I've never touched an SVDA.  

 

Depending on how you slip the disti drive into the case and how you catch the gear on the camshaft, you can end up with #1 all over the place (ask me how I know) but 'normal' #1 at TDC is around 4 o'clock.  Does it HAVE to be there?  Of course not.  All you have to do is pull the drive pinion out of the case, move it around to where you want it and slip it back in.  Not as easy as it sounds, so if it were mine I would just live with #1 being at 2 o'clock - No big deal at all.

 

If the SVDA is dependent on idle vacuum to pull the trigger point around to what we consider "normal", then that's a different animal and totally within the realm of possibility.  I'm just showing you a physical difference between two different distis used for the same purpose.

 

IIRC, my engine idles with about 10-12 degrees of advance with my 009

Knowing your particular idle advance is good, but they all vary a bit. Which is why TOTAL advance should be set at 28-30 degrees, at around 3000-3500 rpm, all advance should be in by then. If centrifugal only, you'll be good to go. If SVDA, disconnect and plug the vacuum line, then set advance.

 

I run 32 degrees total advance at 3000, but I get away with this because my spark is VERY accurate, there is no scatter which you'll get with a distributor. Make sure you have the little coil spring in the distributor drive, this can help with scatter.

 

The Chinese SVDA is 90 degrees off from a factory VW or 009. Stupid, yes, but that's how it is.

 

Apparently the Pertronix  is the same as the Chinese SVDAs.

Thanks Gordon.  OK, the notch location has nothing to do with proper running, etc. It's just a result of the engine build, I get that.  But why would two different distributors have different No.1 cylinder locations?  I guess if it runs, it doesn't matter.  That's probably what I'm ultimately looking for, because I thought I did something wrong.  It would have been nice to know that so I wouldn't have spent time trying to figure it out.  Madness I tell you, Madness.  Seriously, there must be an explanation.  I'm going to call Pertronix tech support to see what their take on this is. Stay tuned.

 

craig

Danny;

 

Found this on Samba:

 

Just passing along some useful information. I've seen the Pertronix II 034 distributors sold as "Made in USA" from multiple companies however Pertronix themselves just confirmed this not to be true.
------------------------------
Corey,
Our distributor are made in china and we buy them complete. Therefore, we do not have parts to sale, like the springs and stuff.
I'm sorry but we wouldn't be able to get you parts for your rebuilds.

Marvin Grebow Jr
PerTronix Inc.
----
Hmmm... but I thought these Pertronix II 034 distributors were made in the USA?
Corey
----
Cory,
Nope. The only thing made in the USA is the Ignitor II Module. Which is made directly in our factory. All the distributor parts are made overseas.
Marvin Grebow Jr

Not all VW distributors have the notch in the same place.

 

 

Assuming you have the distributor drive gear in the case in the stock orientation, and the engine at #1 TDC, then when you insert the distributor, you can align the notch on the distributor body with the rotor. That will ensure the distributor vacuum can won't interfere with with the fuel pump.

 

However, if you don't have the drive gear in the stock orientation, the rotor can end up pointing any which way. But this make no bit of difference to the engine running. In that case, you can try to align the distributor body notch with the rotor. If you can't due to the can hitting the pump, rotate the distributor body notch 90 or 180 degrees left or right from where is "should be" to where it will fit, then just use whatever cap post winds up lined up with the rotor as #1 wire. Attach the other wires in sequence from there. Then just use a marker to indicate where the rotor lines up with the body, and this is now your new "notch" the next time you go to mess with it. Of course, if you mess with the drive gear orientation, you'll need to find the new notch location again.

Thanks Art.  If only I'd have known...but where can you buy anything NOT made in China?  This confirms what Danny said about 90 degree out China builds.  That may have finally solved my problem.  I am going to call Pertronix tommorrow.  See what they tell me.  I was also reading their history and it came across as though they had manufacturing facilities in California.  Apparently not for everything.

 

Thanks everyone, I'll let you know what Pertoronix tech support tells me.

craig

Thanks Justin.  Good info.  I'm learning that what I got as a result is OK.  It doesn't agree with the instructions sent with the distributor for installation so that is one reason why I was confused.

 

craig

The madness may have come to an end on this thread...The first thing I checked was TDC and I found that when No.1 cylinder valves were where they should be, the notches on the engine pulley were about straight up.  So No.1 cylinder and TDC are together, not No.3 cylinder.  Check.  That put the rotor at 10:30 not 4:30 where some suggested it would normally be.  With my old Distributor, No.1 cyl was at 1:30.  The new distributor location for No.1 is 90 degrees out CCW from my old distributor.  That was my concern.

When I watched some Youtube videos, one video said Pertronix distributors were manufactured at 90 degrees off of stock.   Agrees with mine.  I like that.  When I talked to Pertronix tech support, they seemed to say that as well along with the tech rep repeating, where ever the rotor was at TDC was No.1 cylinder.  No Sh!@$#! I thought.

So, since my engine runs with a new orientation for the spark plug wires I’m no longer concerned just confused.

 

Thanks for listening.

Solution “on the rocks” for everyone.

Make mine Knob Creek.

 

 

Art

TDC comes around once for #1 and again for #3, I do believe.

TDC twice on one revolution of the crank.  

 

You are correct.  That is why I checked to make sure what I had marked on the crank pulley was for No.1 cylinder when up.

 

thanks

In comparing several customers distributors and on going issues (such popping and jumping idle or slight miss) I found almost all related to aftermarket distributors. I have not had much luck with any "made in China or any asian country". Best thing to do is get early 010,009 &020 and put a electronic module in it or buy a Mallory unit.

i found that the dist. Cap is not securely fastened on tho Asian distributors.

One turn on the cam is two turns on the crank. Dist runs 1:1 w cam. These are four cylcle engines.

Having an aftermarket distributor "out" of synch with a stock one is very common whether it is for a VW, Ford, Chevy or whatever make of vehicle.