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Yesterday I drove 215 miles from Atascadero to Torrance, CA to pick up my new long-block 2110 from Powerhaus VW. I was impressed as much in person as I was when I first saw their shop online.

 

You could eat off the floor (or benches) in the engine assembly area where there were 8 motors in various states of completion. Mine was wrapped up like a cocoon, less dramatic than the 2337 turbo turn-key engines with carbs and tin (or fiberglass) in place.

 

I got to meet Jerry, whom I spoken with many times through the ordering process and John, the owner.

 

Taking the engine to my local shop in San Luis Obispo: Broad Street VPA Auto Repair tomorrow. Maybe in a week or so we'll be driving our new speedster again, this time with a trust-worthy and (kick-ass) motor!

 

 

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For the poor, every day brings trouble, but for the happy heart, each day is a continual feast! 

Proverbs 15:15

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Images (8)
  • IMG_3131: Jerry with the shop car
  • IMG_3133: One side of the assembly area
  • IMG_3134: The parts sorting bench
  • IMG_3135: Parts bench, second view
  • IMG_3136: Big turbo motor with Bernie Bergmann shroud
  • IMG_3137: More engines, the yellow Bergman is going in a yellow Ghia
  • IMG_3138: my cocoon, soon to blossom into a Kick-Ass butterfly!
  • IMG_3140: John, the owner of Powerhaus VW, Torrance, CA (builders of all Scat engines)
Original Post

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Good luck Will.  Let us know when it's done and maybe a few of us from the Central Valley and some others close to you will venture out your way for a day of driving.  The weather is still holding strong. Troy, Teby, and I went out for a 100 miler today and the weather was very cool in the morning and a little warm by the time we finished.  Warm but not unbearable.

Al, it is built in/on a bubble-case which had oil galleys opened-up/ported/smoothed with a forged/counterweighted 82mm stroker, H-beam (Chevy journals) rods connected to AA 90.5 pistons. Has a Scat cam (not sure the lift/duration) and Scat 1:25 lifters pushed by chromoly pushrods. I'm re-using my billet Pertronics distributor and if it doesn't work well will put in a SVDA. Breathes through twin 44 IDF Webers and a Vintage Speed stainless 1 1/2" exhaust coupled to 1 1/2" flanged heater-boxes. The heads are un-ported 40mm x 35mm valved with peanut spark-plugs and plenty of room between the valve seats. Oil is cooled using a 36 HP doghouse cooler enlarged to fit a Type ll 7 row cooler coupled with a streamline deep sump, remote cooler/fan/thermostat and remote filter. The oil pump is a 30mm steel-body and the full-flow with pressure-relief cover is from a guy in the UK (picture below). I'm using the low scissor-linkage so I can hang a faux-356 orange oil canister/filter (bypass) and the ubiquitous Bosch blue coil on the fan-shroud housing. I'm working out which breather-box to use which will be vented from the aluminum valve covers.

 

Sorry if that's TMI, that's all I can think of...probably remember more later...damned old-timers disease!

bypass oil pump cover

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  • bypass oil pump cover
Originally Posted by Sacto Mitch . . . . 2013 VS:

 

Great news, Will.

 

Don't forget to take the plastic wrap off before you drive it.

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Ron O, 1984/2010 IM, B.C. Canada:

I'd recommend leaving the plastic wrap on for better insulation and oil cooling.

 

See, that's just what this whole motor-thing has been like...one guys says aluminum case, the other...magnesium.

 

One guy Kadrons, the other...Webers.

 

One says use the stock oil pump, the other...nothing but giant geared pump

 

eenie meenie miny moe...what the hell way should I go?

 

well, it's a mute point, I've already gone against 1/2 of the advise I received and used the other 1/2 of the advise I received...

 

I guess I'm...half-full...or...half-right...or...half-crazy!

Originally Posted by Will Hesch:
Originally Posted by Sacto Mitch . . . . 2013 VS:

 

Great news, Will.

 

Don't forget to take the plastic wrap off before you drive it.

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Ron O, 1984/2010 IM, B.C. Canada:

I'd recommend leaving the plastic wrap on for better insulation and oil cooling.

 

See, that's just what this whole motor-thing has been like...one guys says aluminum case, the other...magnesium.

 

One guy Kadrons, the other...Webers.

 

One says use the stock oil pump, the other...nothing but giant geared pump

 

eenie meenie miny moe...what the hell way should I go?

 

well, it's a mute point, I've already gone against 1/2 of the advise I received and used the other 1/2 of the advise I received...

 

I guess I'm...half-full...or...half-right...or...half-crazy!

Will, you know I was joking...right?  You could leave the plastic wrap on if you really like the smell of burning plastic.

I hear it smells like napalm in the morning.

 

images.duckduckgo.com

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Images (1)
  • images.duckduckgo.com
Originally Posted by Ron O, 1984/2010 IM, B.C. Canada:
Originally Posted by Will Hesch:
Originally Posted by Sacto Mitch . . . . 2013 VS:

 

Great news, Will.

 

Don't forget to take the plastic wrap off before you drive it.

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by Ron O, 1984/2010 IM, B.C. Canada:

I'd recommend leaving the plastic wrap on for better insulation and oil cooling.

 

See, that's just what this whole motor-thing has been like...one guys says aluminum case, the other...magnesium.

 

One guy Kadrons, the other...Webers.

 

One says use the stock oil pump, the other...nothing but giant geared pump

 

eenie meenie miny moe...what the hell way should I go?

 

well, it's a mute point, I've already gone against 1/2 of the advise I received and used the other 1/2 of the advise I received...

 

I guess I'm...half-full...or...half-right...or...half-crazy!

 

 

Will, you know I was joking...right?  You could leave the plastic wrap on if you really like the smell of burning plastic.

I hear it smells like napalm in the morning.

 

images.duckduckgo.com

 

I suspect you'll have many trouble-free miles with that engine.

 

 

Will, your original engine may not have been a stellar example of the engine builder's art, but it may still have some value.

 

Why not have Kirk type up a letter of authenticity with your engine case and VIN numbers?

 

That way, if you ever decide to sell the car, you could throw in whatever's left of the old block, and some PCA weenie is sure to offer you twice what the car is worth.

 

 

 

 

Last edited by Sacto Mitch
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