Looking to repair my CMC. Anyone have a pic collection of when they did theirs--many links are no longer available. I have seen a few but would like to see how welding bars/plates etc have been done. Also a bit confused--would it be better to place a shim under the body to make sure the gap never comes back?
Thanks,
David
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Welding is not required at all. Actually kind of dangerous to weld near fiberglass. I used stainless steel bolts with large fender washers. I extended the brace behind the door up using angle iron. Used a liquid nails like glue by Elmers between the fiberglass and existing square chassis tubing. Not sure if these are pictures of mine - or just some reference ones I used.
Welding is not required at all. Actually kind of dangerous to weld near fiberglass. I used stainless steel bolts with large fender washers. I extended the brace behind the door up using angle iron. Used a liquid nails like glue by Elmers between the fiberglass and existing square chassis tubing. Not sure if these are pictures of mine - or just some reference ones I used.
No need to drop the engine for this.
You may need engine weight to close the door gap when you jack back fiberglass up.
Engine has no seal at front tin so exhaust heat is probably being sucked up--not a good think I'm thinking. Since engine is higher on 1/3 side by an inch or more I might as well check on reason (saddles) and make all repairs at once. Dual Dells have been wo cover since probably late 08/09 last time plated so will need some general cleaning up r&r lines-wiring etc then do cosmetics to firewall etc. Living in Ohio it'll probably will be spring till it hits the road. Rotors need turned, lines cleaned etc--no need to rush and be dissappointed--or stranded 
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Wolfgang what thickness of metal did you use for the support you made?
When you measured the support piece of metal you have running from the angle iron to the back of the car did you jack the back of the frame up at all to take off some of the pressure or was everything done at a resting position? (hope that makes sense)
Greg,...
That 'butt sag fix' is an interesting solution.
I forget, is your replica a VS?...Can you remember that far back?
I bought it from a steel supply place so its not thin strapping - it's probably almost 1/8" thick. Buy pieces a few inches longer than perhaps you measure. It was not expensive. You want it as high as possible just behind the door on the angle iron and as far back as possible towards the rear but doesn't need to be precise. What makes the back sag is the rivet holes thru the FG elongate and aren't adequate to support all that rear FG weight especially with road vibration. The metal straps, the liquid nails glue (or better stuff) between the FG and chassis metal plus the bolts with large fender washers (replacing the rivets) now will provide the support. Since it isn't precise just measure at rest - no problem if 1/2" longer when rear is jacked up.
Mine is '89 CMC.
