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HI. Ive just joined as a new member and was hoping to get some advice regarding most things on my build. I do not have a build manual and i am struggling with the door locking latch/mechanism. I understand that i may be able to purchase a rod or bar that connects the threaded section on the inner part of the handle to the latch but im not sure where i can get them from. I have heard about a company called CMC but i cant find any information about them. can anyone give some much needed advice.

 

very appreciative.

 

Ian.    

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Classic Motor Carriages was put out of business by the FL State's Attorney in 1992 (or so).  Donating members can down load a copy of the CMC build manual at the RESOURCES tab. MG Magic in Miami FL still has some CMC bits but I've net seen that bar.  The manual has a drawing of the piece.  See my dialog to you.

 

https://www.speedsterowners.com/clip/dscn0730

Last edited by WOLFGANG

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The horizontal rod seen is the connector link from door handle to latch assembly....   I made it from rod stock purchased from a local hardware store....  The "S" bend allows for adjustment of the rods length....   The "rusty pipe" is just 1/2" EMT (electrical mechanical tubing ).   Use the largest diameter rod which fits your latch assembly so that it flexes minimally....  The pivot bolt/screw at the bottom of the tubing needs reinforcing of the fiberglass to allow for counter sinking the screw head....   This is usually done by adding layers of glass to the interior. (about 3/8" thick)....  I thought I had more pictures, but "The dog ate them."   Hope this helps....

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Originally Posted by LeonChupp:
 
Hi Leon:
Thanks for your very helpful information. The photos are great and should help me no end. I will let you know how i get on.  
 
Regards
Ian. 

IMG_0238

IMG_0239

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The horizontal rod seen is the connector link from door handle to latch assembly....   I made it from rod stock purchased from a local hardware store....  The "S" bend allows for adjustment of the rods length....   The "rusty pipe" is just 1/2" EMT (electrical mechanical tubing ).   Use the largest diameter rod which fits your latch assembly so that it flexes minimally....  The pivot bolt/screw at the bottom of the tubing needs reinforcing of the fiberglass to allow for counter sinking the screw head....   This is usually done by adding layers of glass to the interior. (about 3/8" thick)....  I thought I had more pictures, but "The dog ate them."   Hope this helps....

 

Not sure if it helps, but my CMC looks pretty much IDENTICAL to that on the inside of the doors, except I was super cranky about the actuator rod that connects the interior door handle with the door latch. I didn't use a S bend. I cut the rod and bent it to length.  Yes... I have two or three that were just a bit too long or a bit too short.

 

Ted

Originally Posted by TRP:
 
Thanks for that Ted. Do you have any photos you could send me.
 
Regards
Ian. 

Not sure if it helps, but my CMC looks pretty much IDENTICAL to that on the inside of the doors, except I was super cranky about the actuator rod that connects the interior door handle with the door latch. I didn't use a S bend. I cut the rod and bent it to length.  Yes... I have two or three that were just a bit too long or a bit too short.

 

Ted

 

Seriously... I felt like the Z bend or the S curve was such crap. I had to get it right. The worst part was I used Brass for my two rods, so I couldn't really bend and unbend them. You had two shots per bar and then they would snap off at the ends.

 

I'm so silly... nobody will EVER see these things.


My latest escapade was with my home made license plate bracket. I didn't want to move the existing license plate bracket so I made a standoff plate of my own to relocate the screw holes for the license plate. It couldn't be too much to the left or right. Not too high, not too low.

 

 

It's a sad life once you get the madness.

Ted

Last edited by TRP
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