OK I decided to place all stock Porsche emblems on car. Placing front Porsche badge, rear 1600 SUPER and Porsche badge on dash. I am not drilling holes this time. So I guess I just get some 2 sided tape and an Exacto knife. Any other advice or tricks?
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/...=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:19 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>
http://www.nationaltoolwarehou...69-2-x-12-P2502.aspx
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:19 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>
So with this emblem adhesive, you don't need to trim around each individual letter? I'm curious how this works. Have you used it Tom? I searched on-line to find a "how to" video but haven't found one. The description from 3M on how this works is pretty vague.
Phil, You can also just get the 3M double-sided stuff and trim but it does take some patience and a sharp blade. Probably a little less expensive.
> On Jan 30, 2015, at 3:40 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>
Here's a link to a pdf file with a good description and instructions for use.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/m...m-adhesive-08069.pdf
This stuff is intended for use when the foam backing is still on the emblem. The directions (excerpted from the pdf):
1. Clean surface to be bonded to with soap and water, followed by 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (PN 08984, 08986, 08987).
2. Be sure foam backing on emblem/trim is intact, clean and dry. Be careful about cleaning foam with solvents, as they can absorb and weaken the bond at a later time.
3. Remove the front liner from a sheet of the 08069 Press-In-Place Emblem Adhesive.
4. Firmly press the foam-backing side of the emblem into the sheet of 08069.
5. Peel sheet away and be sure that adhesive has transferred to the foam backing of the emblem (will see adhesive removed on 08069 sheet).
6. Firmly press the foam side of the emblem onto the desired location on the vehicle. Press lightly at first to insure correct position, then press firmly to secure the bond. This is pressure-sensitive adhesive; press as firmly as possible without damaging the emblem or vehicle for the strongest bond.
Thanks Tom….. It sounds like great stuff. Trying to trim around each skinny letter is difficult. I would love to hear more from somebody who has tried it.
Thanks for suggestion but the emblems I will be placing are new without foam backing. Doesn't look like this product will work with a metal emblem. How are people attaching emblems? When I placed initial rear Porsche emblem I drilled holes. People questioned me for drilling into fiberglass. Has anyone placed new metal emblems from scratch without drilling? How did you do it? 3M double sided tape? I have placed all emblems on my prior 2 kit cars by drilling holes. I really don't have a problem getting the drill out but this sounds more elegant. Anyone?
This thread looks like a good place to ask.
I've always wondered how you get this 3M adhesive (and whatever's attached with it) OFF if you have to, i.e. if an emblem is scratched or broken. Does it permanently mar the paint once applied?
Dental floss and goo-gone or something similar to get them off. The paint will likely fade around the emblem, but (obviously) not under it.
Phil, I had a full set of Porsche badges on my previous build as it was a full air-cooled model a really close to full replica. Now that I have built a new IM I feel the over 50 year history that IM has as a custom sports car builder is a feat by itself. I have now decided to have subtle IM insignia only on my new car. Ray
Ray-
That's the approach I took.
I've got the Intermeccanica "builder's badge" on the RF fender, Intermeccanica dash spear (I machined "Porsche" out of an OEM spear and found a place that made an inlay for me), and an IM crest on the hood handle and horn button. I have no "P" badges anywhere on the car.
I'm happy with what it is-- a sports car in it's own right.
HI Stan, I would be interested in seeing your badging on your dash. I have the IM aluminum steering wheel crest and in the hood handle ... I had the 50 year anniversary on my air cooled, thinking of another grill badge with IM crest like the steering wheel. I read the Prancing Bull the story of IM and after reading it I knew most of the builders and designers from reading about them in my youth, it also brought me to think of an IM as a sports car in it's own right. Well said, Ray
I would surely like to hear from someone that has used the 3M adhesive. I have a badge looking at other ways to mount with drilling, especially into the dash.
When I got the car it had all IM badges. And NO the holes for IM badges DO NOT match Porsche badges. I got tired of people asking me what the car is. Is it a Karman Ghia? Is it Italian? I get much fewer dumb questions with the Porsche badges on it. The occasional what year is it? Or is it a replica is all I get now. It really is a replica of a Porsche so why not just complete the package. Each to there own. Mine is going to be a replica of a 59 Conv D 1600 SUPER. Who would just put on the 1600 without the SUPER?
I completely understand Phil's concern here. I guess we all get bombarded by dumb questions about our car. I just tell people what they want to hear, based on what they ask me - sort of like a politician
For my IM6, I am going with the small Intermeccanica badge on the hood (no hood handle), Speedster script on the side, and IM makers badge lower right front fender. Also, the Intermeccanica horn button.
At least, that's the plan for now.
Think I'll get out the drill.
Bob, I'd get some 3.0 or 3.2(or whatever size you got) emblems from a 911 to give people a real head-scratcher. But that's just me!
Phil, I made a template from a manila folder for my emblems. Tape it to the car after first covering the area with blue tape. I usually start the drill in reverse until you break through the paint. Start small, 1/16" bit. Then go forward and go up drill size in steps. Use paint or clear nail polish to seal the 'glass.
And stand back as far as you can, usually outside the garage to make sure they're straight.
Bob, I'd get some 3.0 or 3.2(or whatever size you got) emblems from a 911 to give people a real head-scratcher. But that's just me!
Yes. I've been thinking that exactly, to go with the IM badges and Speedster script. Just have to find the right 911 emblem now.
I'll probably be using Porsche OEM wheels, and will have to deal with the center cap emblems.
Tough decisions, these are...
If you go with an original Porsche wheel, wheel centres can be made for you. Not cheap but can be had with IM crests if you so choose.
Bob, that is really funny but true, there is a short story and a long story when you own an IM. : )
Bob,
x2 on the IM crest wheel centers. That would be eye-candy on a whole 'nuther level.
Bob, are you going with Lozzio's wheels?
As for the wheels, I may just put a set of older Porsche wheels on until I decide what I really want. Or, I may stay with them - not sure yet.
Wheels - as Marty has shown us all - are items that can be changed after the car is built, and in the meantime, what money I don't spent there can be put to other things in the build.
I would like IM centre caps, to be sure, but we will see what I end up with for the first go around.
I'd love a set of these PS Classic wheels: http://www.psautoart.com/ps-wheels
Bob, those are lovely wheels, that look a lot like Fuchs.. IM can source older Fuch's for you. Ray
Ray:
I've had lots of chats with Henry about wheels, and I think we have something in place that will do.
I'm not sure I want a set of regular Fuch wheels, at least not now.
Thanks
Bob, you have a lot of choices when you choose the 5 lug porsche hubs. I am sure that the dream maker can give you options with different costs that you choose from. In my build once I started comparing costs I felt the Fuchs did it for me without going at it again, but then, as I read this list it really does seem that the wheels are a moving target, and depending on your mood you might have a set for different occasions. .... Ray
Phil,
Did you find what you are looking for? I removed all my scripts and have an "Outlaw" script I want to install in their place. Someone else did the same thing and described what they used as "A 3M product that I got from my painter. It's an emblem adhesive you peel one side off of, and place the emblem on. Press the back side where there's still paper, peel it away, and the remaining adhesive comes away cleanly. You're left with a -mil-thick adhesive and nothing to cut out."
I haven't found it yet. Does this help? Have you found anything?
Bruce, it sounds like you are describing the stuff that was discussed earlier in this thread...a 3M product designed to renew the adhesive on emblems that still have their foam backing.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/...=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Here's a link to a pdf file with a description and instructions for use.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/m...m-adhesive-08069.pdf
Don't think anyone has come up with an easy way to replace the foam itself, other than double sided foam that you trim away with an x-acto. And I haven't seen anything that would work to adhere an emblem without using the double sided foam.
Bruce
Nothing sounds real promising. Think I'm just going to drill holes. The most challenging emblem will be the front PORSCHE lettering. The nose is very curved just under the trunk. A little scary. I just don't think tape will be durable particularly on the front of the car.
I've decided to try this first. Heavy duty, weather resistant and clear. Will give full report after I try it. Man I love Amazon Prime.
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Nope, I'm not referring to the stuff for foam backng, the guy I referred to above did not have a foam backing and I personally think the thickness of foam will not look right. Here is something from Sierra Madre, a little pricey at $9.34 + shipping but sounds like what I am referring to:
www.sierramadrecollection.com/...sive-Tape-p6016.html
Phil,
If you drill holes there a couple of tricks you may be familiar with: use blue tape where you drill, start drill in reverse first then in forward, use slow drilling. Also, if you use the slide on clips you may find the fiberglass too thick and the prongs too short. There are differing opinions how to handle this. My solution was to grind the fiberglass thinner in the back of the holes so the clips can reach the prongs. And yes, the front PORSCHE lettering is the toughest and drilling is probably the best method for that one.
Thanks Bruce. That stuff looks great. Through careless of a California Duster, I very slightly bent a side emblem on my IM. This may be the ticket to adhere it.
Paul,
Let me now if you try it.
Placed the easiest badge first. Dremmeled off fastening pins first. This 3M tape is very sticky and kind of gooy. Gooyness makes the tape bond to imperfections in the metal. Its a bit hard to cut with Xacto knife. But after cut the tape is malleable and can be pushed and formed like clay. Different from anything I've ever worked with. Its also easy to bend and shape the badge with tape in place. Backing is not removed until badge is ready to place. Xacto knife gets dull quickly. Will need to replace blade before I try to tackle the front PORSCHE badge. This badge and the 1600 SUPER badge will require a lot more effort. So far this tape gets 2 thumbs up.
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maybe a surgical knife would go better ray