Does anyone out there use Bosch Platinum plugs? Are they better than the W8AC standards?
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Does anyone out there use Bosch Platinum plugs? Are they better than the W8AC standards?
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Jjr swears by them; but I've also read that they're a waste of money for these motors as compared to the W8AC's.
I've been running Bosch W8AP plugs in my 2,110 since I built my engine. Never used anything else on an air-cooled engine since my snowmobiling days of the 1960's and '70's. I'm also running a CB Performance "Magna-Spark" coil running 60,000+ volts, and the two seemed made for each other.
I gap my plugs at .052" now, but have run them tighter in the past (as close as .032") with, seemingly, no noticeable difference. It starts with the usual coughing and puking when cold, but after a 2-5 minute warm-up, it'll start when the first plug fires, every time (except for one time at Lane's when it wouldn't even turn over - still haven't figured that one out...but it caught in reverse with about a 10 foot push)
Are they worth the extra money? I don't know....a "regular" plug is about $2 bucks around here and good for about 12,000 miles, while my Platinum plugs never foul, they cost about $3.50 and are good for around 75,000 miles.
I'm now running Platinum plugs in all of our cars and trucks.
gn
I gap my plugs at .052" now, but have run them tighter in the past (as close as .032") with, seemingly, no noticeable difference. It starts with the usual coughing and puking when cold, but after a 2-5 minute warm-up, it'll start when the first plug fires, every time (except for one time at Lane's when it wouldn't even turn over - still haven't figured that one out...but it caught in reverse with about a 10 foot push)
Are they worth the extra money? I don't know....a "regular" plug is about $2 bucks around here and good for about 12,000 miles, while my Platinum plugs never foul, they cost about $3.50 and are good for around 75,000 miles.
I'm now running Platinum plugs in all of our cars and trucks.
gn
Better replace the starter brushes if it would not spin over. thats sounds like what it is. When they get worn way down they do this.
Especialy when the engines hot. I could be wrong But it a cheap easy fix. if you can find new brushes?
Platium plug and me don't get along. It may be that i like near stock igniction systems But I have had very decent results with Plain Bosch plugs. the wider gap is a eyebrow raiser to me. and it has me rethinkig platium plugs.
Keep typing and let us know what you find out. I'd like to learn more on this
Especialy when the engines hot. I could be wrong But it a cheap easy fix. if you can find new brushes?
Platium plug and me don't get along. It may be that i like near stock igniction systems But I have had very decent results with Plain Bosch plugs. the wider gap is a eyebrow raiser to me. and it has me rethinkig platium plugs.
Keep typing and let us know what you find out. I'd like to learn more on this
Barry:
No it wasn't the starter brushes....turned out to be a corroded fast-on connector on my starter relay (no, not the solenoid...I have an auxiliary relay between the starter switch and the solenoid) which was exposed to the elements. All that's now fixed and weather-proofed.
Platinum plugs work very well with stock ignitions, usually with the "stock" plug gap or several thousandths wider. I'm running a somewhat wider gap on mine because I also have twice the voltage (and significantly more current) hitting the plugs.
Successfully changing to platinum plugs is like changing to any other plug manufacturer (say, from Bosch to Champion or Autolite or NGK). Even if you get exactly the same specs per the info on the box (or their spec sheet, if you can find it) you sometimes have to mess around with a few different ranges and so forth until you get something that your engine seems to like under local ambient conditions. The W8AP's that I use work well for me, but I seldom get more than 500 feet above sea level AND I intentionally run a tad rich all the time. Folks in other areas or altitudes may have different luck. Friends of mine who are into racing aircooled engines are split on plugs, but most are running platinums.
One interesting thing about Platinum plugs from my snowmobile days: If you had a machine that was prone to "loading up", i.e.; tending to run really rich because of the colder conditions (the gas vapour would condense along the inside of the intake manifold), they would often become cured, start much easier and run "right" if you switched to Platinum plugs. My older brother has a racing sled that has always run Platinums and he's been in the top five in his class in New England/Eastern Canada for years, now.
Anyway, Platinums are fine once you learn to live with 'em.
No it wasn't the starter brushes....turned out to be a corroded fast-on connector on my starter relay (no, not the solenoid...I have an auxiliary relay between the starter switch and the solenoid) which was exposed to the elements. All that's now fixed and weather-proofed.
Platinum plugs work very well with stock ignitions, usually with the "stock" plug gap or several thousandths wider. I'm running a somewhat wider gap on mine because I also have twice the voltage (and significantly more current) hitting the plugs.
Successfully changing to platinum plugs is like changing to any other plug manufacturer (say, from Bosch to Champion or Autolite or NGK). Even if you get exactly the same specs per the info on the box (or their spec sheet, if you can find it) you sometimes have to mess around with a few different ranges and so forth until you get something that your engine seems to like under local ambient conditions. The W8AP's that I use work well for me, but I seldom get more than 500 feet above sea level AND I intentionally run a tad rich all the time. Folks in other areas or altitudes may have different luck. Friends of mine who are into racing aircooled engines are split on plugs, but most are running platinums.
One interesting thing about Platinum plugs from my snowmobile days: If you had a machine that was prone to "loading up", i.e.; tending to run really rich because of the colder conditions (the gas vapour would condense along the inside of the intake manifold), they would often become cured, start much easier and run "right" if you switched to Platinum plugs. My older brother has a racing sled that has always run Platinums and he's been in the top five in his class in New England/Eastern Canada for years, now.
Anyway, Platinums are fine once you learn to live with 'em.
Thanks for the input. There is always a wealth of knowledge on this site. I doing a tune up this week and will try my luck with the platinum plugs. I using an electronic ignition with a blue coil. I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks again I really appreciate all of your help.
Thanks again I really appreciate all of your help.
Platinum, as a metal, is an excellent conductor, and as a noble metal, resists oxidation. This would make it an excellent choice for a high temp, highly corrosive (acidic exhaust, arc oxidation, melt down, etc.etc.)application such as a high perf. engine....
The time frame between replacements should be much longer than with standard plugs, even with high voltage coils, trick ignitions, free flow exhaust, and lean carbs. This does not forgive using the wrong heat range....
Hope this helps...
The time frame between replacements should be much longer than with standard plugs, even with high voltage coils, trick ignitions, free flow exhaust, and lean carbs. This does not forgive using the wrong heat range....
Hope this helps...
I have tried the Bosch ones on numerous Toyotas over the years with dismall results. They tend to cause the engine to miss at low speeds. Within the Toyota community they are nicknamed "Botched" plugs. The 4 tipped ones are especially laughed at. When installing them you need to be very careful not to scratch the thin platinum coating - making gapping them a challenge.
Hi!
I've never used the multi-tip versions, just good ol' single tip types. Blue coils LOVE Platinum W8AP plugs. Gap 'em at .045" - .048" for a blue coil, or you can go closer to stock if you're nervous about it - no big deal.
Funny you should mention the problems with Bosch plugs in Toyotas - I had a 1971 Toyota Corona with a Japan-only 1500cc twin cam. Ran TERRIBLE with anything but NGK's - even tried playing with different heat ranges of both Bosch and Champion; either I had low end mis-fire or high end breakdown, depending on the plug used. Drove me nuts.
Finally, I was at the local Toyota place (they liked to see the car come in, as they never got to see another 1500 twin cam with 4 Mikuni carbs in there) and one of the service guys told me to switch back to NGKs as nothing else worked on HIS cars. What did I know? I was only in my mid-20's back then. Switched to NGKs and never looked back.
My brother had the same problem with his BMW; it ran best only with Bosch, and a trusted diagnostic mechanic told me to NEVER run anything in my Ford F150 pickup but Autolite.
I kinda get the feeling that the engine designers (in ALL of the automotive companies) design around specific components and THAT's what works best.
gn
I've never used the multi-tip versions, just good ol' single tip types. Blue coils LOVE Platinum W8AP plugs. Gap 'em at .045" - .048" for a blue coil, or you can go closer to stock if you're nervous about it - no big deal.
Funny you should mention the problems with Bosch plugs in Toyotas - I had a 1971 Toyota Corona with a Japan-only 1500cc twin cam. Ran TERRIBLE with anything but NGK's - even tried playing with different heat ranges of both Bosch and Champion; either I had low end mis-fire or high end breakdown, depending on the plug used. Drove me nuts.
Finally, I was at the local Toyota place (they liked to see the car come in, as they never got to see another 1500 twin cam with 4 Mikuni carbs in there) and one of the service guys told me to switch back to NGKs as nothing else worked on HIS cars. What did I know? I was only in my mid-20's back then. Switched to NGKs and never looked back.
My brother had the same problem with his BMW; it ran best only with Bosch, and a trusted diagnostic mechanic told me to NEVER run anything in my Ford F150 pickup but Autolite.
I kinda get the feeling that the engine designers (in ALL of the automotive companies) design around specific components and THAT's what works best.
gn
To be sure there has to be a art to plug selection.Thanks Gordan
Im curious about your high out put ignition system. Are you running points or something else and what cc is your engine and what Cfm are your cabs, and what kind of dizzy. so I can make some comparisons
Im curious about your high out put ignition system. Are you running points or something else and what cc is your engine and what Cfm are your cabs, and what kind of dizzy. so I can make some comparisons
Barry, IIRC, Gordon has a 2110cc type1 he built himself. I can attest to it's power output, she flies! He has Dells, I think 45mm, a Magnaspark ignition which is an electronic pointless ignition. Do a search for the ignition.
Close.....2,110, Engle 120 cam, Dell 40mm's (I personally believe that 45's on a 2,110 is too much carburetor, but that's just me) and the MagnaSpark ignition from CB performance.
The MagnaSpark is a pointless, electronic, proprietary set-up (it has unique wire connectors), with a 60,000 volt coil assembly that has it's own heat sink. I mounted mine on the left wheel well liner for proper air flow cooling, which means I usually have to home-brew a coil-to-disti spark wire (no big deal).
It provides a MASSIVE spark. You do NOT want to get zapped by it, believe me. On the other hand, when the engine is warm it will start within the first 1/4 turn of the crank, every time, unless I touch the gas too soon.
Check it out on CB performance web site - look for Magna Spark.
gn