Put in new plug wires today. I thought it would be easy. It probably is with the engine out. I could barley see the spark plug heads on the two forward cylinders and so getting the wire properly seated was a Bear!! The engine compartment was too tight and had to remove the sheet metal deck just above the cylinders. Also the dual carbs make everything less accessible. I wasn't confident that the plug wires are down as tight as they should be. Also new cap and rotor. The car ran good and it did not cut off (that was a recent issue I've been dealing with). Im gonna go back and recheck the wires once the weather gets warmer as today was cold . I need to run it longer to ensure the stalling issue is gone.
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Who was it that cut access holes thru the inner wheel well (one on both side) to get access to forward plugs and the front carb manifold bolts? At least you can get head in wheel well with wheel off - so you could actually see whats going on in there.
On my IM I have a small panel on each side, just in front of the plugs and intake manifolds, that can be taken off.
It makes getting at the plugs and the bolts that hold the manifold on MUCH easier.
I covered the panels with heat reflective tape to help stop heat from getting into the engine bay.
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John, I'm not much of a wrencher, and probably never will be, but I'm learning to do routine stuff on this car. I've never seen a car where more stuff looked accessible until you tried getting a wrench on it.
The plugs on number one and three are like that. You need to look to see where things are and then do the rest by feel. When you get the wrench to where it needs to be, you won't be in a position to actually see what's going on.
The idle jets on Webers are like that, too.
Look at what some people do to cope:
Under what circumstances is your car "cutting out". If it runs OK under light throttle and then just stops, it's probably not plug wires.
When my car was new, it would be OK up to about 50 mph, but if I put my foot down, like for climbing a hill on the freeway, it would stumble and stall. It turned out that the float valves in the carbs had never been properly set. In new carbs, they almost never are. You may luck out and have two carbs that are right, but you've used up a lot of good karma if they are.
Also, the fuel pressure needs to be checked to see if it's in the very narrow range that these carbs want to see. I lucked out - the mechanical fuel pump that came with the car was OK, but they're very often not. You'll never really get the carbs dialed in right until these two things - fuel pressure and float level - are done first.
Mitch, good on all points.
I use an old piece of fuel hose on the insulator to thread new plugs in. That prevents crossed threads and much swearing and heartache.
Plugs and plug wires are a real MF in a Speedster.
John.
As I recall from reading the history of your car posted by Mickey and the new owner, after he sold it, both of them experienced the "cut off" issue that you are describing. I might have missed it, but I don't recall seeing anything about the problem ever being resolved. Did you ever ask Mickey about the problem? It sure doesn't sound like a plug wire issue to me.