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I just changed the oil (for the first time) in our 1999 Porsche 996. The procedure went well, but after I had installed the oil filter (a WIX), I noticed that ends on the old stock Porsche filter were flat, whereas the Wix filter had what appeared to be a rubber lip on both ends. I should have noticed the difference before I installed the new filter, but I just plain missed it. I had no problem installing the new filter (a cartridge), but wondered afterwards if the new WIX filter will cause problems since the ends of the filter are not exactly the same as those of the original part. This is the WIX filter:

 

http://www.partsgeek.com/catal...ical/oil_filter.html

 

...and this is the original Porsche filter:

 

 

 

 

Barry

 

Former owner Vintage Suby Spyder

1967 Chevy C10 pickup

'38 Chevy coupe; Corvette LS-6 engine; 6-speed Tremec transmission, plus other goodies

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I had an 04 996 and changed the oil several times.  I would always use whatever they used at the dealer...I would call and ask and then order. Would have to go back and look at my parts purchases.  However, I personally would not be concerned unless you see leaks.  If parts geek said it fits the. It probably is good.  Next time you change it really look for those metal shavings in between the fins...you can cut it open.  Also. You can change that filter out if concerned and will lose minimal oil...

 

 

Thanks, all. I went to a local shop and was treated like a king. I ditched the WIX filter and replaced it with a Mahle. The Mahle, BTW, approximates the original Porsche filter cartridge, and interestingly the O-ring is noticeably larger in diameter than the WIX.

 

I talked to the shop owner and the mechanic who works exclusively on Porsches. I had evidently put the O-ring on top of the flange (which was reasonable, but not correct), allowing the oil to leak past the O-ring.

 

The Germans have an odd way of designing things at times, and in this case, their design of the oil filter and associated housing wasn't worth a shyt. They should have copied the filter design that has been adopted by both American and Japanese: i.e, allowing for a screw-on all-in-one filter, such as a Fram (I don't use the brand), where the gasket is on top of the filter. Here, all you do is unscrew the old filter, then screw on the new one. Piece of cake, but I suppose the German designers thought otherwise....they must be sadists at heart, judging from the way they have designed their BMW motorcycle turn signals. Maybe they are mad at the world (and especially the U.S.) for having lost WWI and II.

 

Anyway, I got squared away, but it was so unnecessary! Needless to say, I have found a shop that knows what they are doing!

 

Yes, I cut the filter apart, and found no metal filings or chips. But...hey....the engine has only 15,000 miles on it. Now, I have to be concerned with the Rear Main Seal and Intermediate Shaft Bearing, which will require replacement if and when the clutch craps out. A $3,500 "fix," from what I was told, using LN parts.

 

Seems to me that it would be a great idea if the Porsche body could somehow use Toyota running gear that is consistently reliable and which requires far less maintenance.

Last edited by Barry S (Goofycat)

Barry, have you not seen the hybrid site

http://www.renegadehybrids.com  

They use V8 engines and convert 996's all the time to reliable cars with half the cost to maintain the vehicle. So if your used to a replica and want to keep the car a long time then this might be your solution.  IF you want to keep it original then you have the issues you have. 

 

I did the Air cooled near perfect replica.... then finally I went with full subie. 

choices are hard sometimes Ray

Maybe I'm wrong, but by the time you see metal in the filter, the damage to the IMS will already be done. Then you need a new motor or a rebuild. Just do the IMS bearing now, and worry about the rear bearing at clutch time.

 

A LOT of new cars have switched to the cartridge type oil filter. My 2005 Audi V8 has one. I bought one at NAPA and changed it no fuss-no muss. Bet it is a Wix too. Plastic, paper, and an O-ring, $18. It sure isn't a cartridge to save money!

The clutch and rear main seal usually get done at same time since the mechanic is already in there.  Rear main seal is about 30 bucks and clutch kit a few hundred.  IMS bearing 800 to 1000 and labor...expensive...which is why just better to change all at once.  I had three of my P cars done with the IMS from Raby.  2k plus each but great peace of mind when done.  There are lots of things that can put metal into 

The filter...there are actually 20 plus modes of failure on the m96 motor.  Here are pics of 2 of the 3 I had done, these are my old ones....good paper weights.  Shame this little part has caused so much damage for people.

image

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